Hey everyone I am in need of a diagram/pics of where the bleeder valve ties into the SFMU setup. I have the SFMU installed and just would like to see where this bleeder valve ties in.

tia

Here is what most people do,



You can do it that way, it goes into the boost port on the SFMU, just take the boost screw out and thread it in there, be sure to put a check valve on it too though(not nessesary but it coudl creat a vac leak/boost leak. Its been a while since I have messed with an SFMU but that pic is when I used to have one, I never ran it though.

Thanks...I'll try that when i get home...for some reason I think the one that was given to me was actually connected by vaccuum line on both ends.

Not sure...I'll have to check after work....thanks again!

Ok so a little update. I have the car running again and it hasn't ran in close to 2 years now. Fired right up...wasn't broke, just need a battery.

So now onto the question...I have the largest disk and short spring in the SFMU now. I think if I can remember correctly I have 440 injectors in the car...I honestly can't remember it's been so long.

The car runs great with a 14.7a/f at idle and about the same while just driving the car without much load on it. Now when I go into boost, my wideband spikes to 10.0a/f and the car bogs down really bad. I've been trying to read up on what disk ring combo I need to be running for my car to perform correct in and out of boost.

The bleeder valve that someone from this board sold me does not fit in the bleeder valve port. I've been messing around with backing out the boost set screw a little to see if that made any differences....no luck.

Any suggestions?

I thought you sold your car. Whenever I ran 440's, I used one of the smallest disks and a special short/heavy spring. The ratio was really low, like 3.X:1. The special spring let me drop the static fuel pressure really low. If it were me, I would see how low of a fuel pressure I could run (maybe 23 psi static and in the teens under vacuum). The stock ECU should be able to trim enough fuel out to keep you at a decent A/F. Then, I would put in a smaller disk of ratio near 4:1. Keep the bleed valve closed and ease into boost, with the ECU still trimming fuel (closed loop). If you have a datalogger, see if your fuel trim is positive or negative. Also, keep an eye on the wideband to make sure the A/F is safe. The fuel trim will give you an idea if you need to change the disk or open the bleed valve. If you open the bleed valve, make sure it does not leak at idle (that will make you run rich at idle). That means that there must be a check valve before or after the bleed (my old Belle FPR had a check valve stuck to the outlet of the bleed valve). Once you get the fuel trims slightly negative (safe and rich), you might try some full throttle runs (ECU no longer trimming fuel).

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

Originally posted by Corbin
I thought you sold your car. Whenever I ran 440's, I used one of the smallest disks and a special short/heavy spring. The ratio was really low, like 3.X:1. The special spring let me drop the static fuel pressure really low. If it were me, I would see how low of a fuel pressure I could run (maybe 23 psi static and in the teens under vacuum). The stock ECU should be able to trim enough fuel out to keep you at a decent A/F. Then, I would put in a smaller disk of ratio near 4:1. Keep the bleed valve closed and ease into boost, with the ECU still trimming fuel (closed loop). If you have a datalogger, see if your fuel trim is positive or negative. Also, keep an eye on the wideband to make sure the A/F is safe. The fuel trim will give you an idea if you need to change the disk or open the bleed valve. If you open the bleed valve, make sure it does not leak at idle (that will make you run rich at idle). That means that there must be a check valve before or after the bleed (my old Belle FPR had a check valve stuck to the outlet of the bleed valve). Once you get the fuel trims slightly negative (safe and rich), you might try some full throttle runs (ECU no longer trimming fuel). Corbin '95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks Humble servant of the Wiki

Thanks corbin...nope haven't sold it yet...and really don't want to but need money to buy camera euquipment.

OK I recieved this bleeder valve with the SFMU I got and it has a check valve attached to it. Would I want to splice that into the vacuum line between the mani and SFMU? It isn't the one that screws right into the bleeder port. When I got it, it was attached to a vacuum line with the check valve inline with it. So I am assuming maybe I need to "T" this off the vac line going to the SFMU then. Is that a fair assumption?

I was also messing with the boost set screw as well, but didn't really get any results from that.

Also...this is kind of a side note, but what do all Missing Links make the car buck a little when slowly going into boost at times? Everyone I've ever had does it.

I found out I am running 42lb injectors and I found this info "wickedtalon" sent me a while ago...he said "I used the 2.72 disk (largest I think) and the dark spring. I'm pretty sure it was the biggest ring as well. Fuel pressure should be set at 18-20psi.
"

Jeremy if I recall, years back when I used the SFMU and 440's, I was deffinately using the dark hard spring, a 2.72" disc and ring I believe.

Ok, well I just put in the largest disk and largest spring I have with the short spring and now instead of pig rich I am going way lean now.

You need the 2.72 disc AND ring with the dark spring.

The dark spring lets you set the idle fuel pressure really low. Using the 2.72" disk and matching ring should give a ratio of around 4.5:1 (this is the second largest disk). That should leave you a little rich and you can open the bleed valve some to reduce the ratio. The boost screw should be closed. That just cuts the top off of your fuel curve (bad idea). The bleed valve should screw into its own dedicated port in the S-FMU. The check valve might be stuck to the outlet of the bleed valve. The check valve should vent to atmosphere. The point is to create a controlled air leak that closes under vacuum. The vacuum line from the manifold should go directly into the S-FMU. After a drastic change like this you should probably reset the ECU (unhook the negative battery terminal for a minute). If you were running way rich before, the ECU would adjust your long term fuel trim to remove 25% (maximum). It will take a lot of driving to bring the long term fuel trims back to zero. If you reset the ECU, they automatically go back to zero.

OK so I put in the 2.72 disk with the largest ring. But let me ask you all this. I have 4 disks and 3 rings.

The largest disk 3.62 I believe would be used on it's own. The 2.72 disk doesn't match up perfectly with the largest disk like all the other smaller disk ring combos. What I mean is the two smallest disk and ring combos fit tightly together. Where as the 2.72 and largest ring I have there is a slight gap between the disk and ring itself.

Is that normal though?

I was just wondering as I am not sure if I have all the disks and springs everyone is referring too is all.

But I am glad to say that the car is running great again...in and out of boost. I was boosting 24psi till I hit fuel cut then backed it off to about 19psi and she runs amazing. Only thing that changed that was good before were my idle A/F ratios. Before they were 14.7 and now they are like 11.1.