Realizing that ARP does not make a main stud kit for the 2.4L block (weird) I got crack-a-lackin on filling out there stud application chart. Spoke with Modern Performance and they said they always re-use the OEM main bolts. A few posts over @neons.org mention that guys run the ARP kit 141-5801 for the 2.0 however there is not 100% thread engagement by the nut. Their solution? Back the stud out a thread or two from the block. :rolleyes

OEM: 2.0 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x 60
M11 x 1.50 x 65

OEM: 2.4 bedplate bolts:
M8 x 1.25 x 70
M11 x 1.50 x 75

After a couple phone conversations with Paul @ARP (very helpful guy) I ordered a set of studs/washers/nuts a la carte.

M8 stud: AF3.725-1B
M8 washer: 200-8641
M8 nut: 300-8340

M11 stud: ATP4.000-1LB
M11 washer: 200-8510
M11 nut: 300-8303

a quantity of 10 is needed of each.
w/o shipping cost: $204.72

Excellent information. Definately WIKI worthy. You're an asset to this community. No doubt, props for you my friend. :thumbsup

$200?

I used new stock stuff and called it good :)

I know, I know Dino :p

I figure if I am going to run head and cam studs, re-using the main bolts would feel strange.

Received the ARP studs/washers/nuts today. The M11 combination works well. A slight problem with the M8 studs however - with the washer used there is maybe 0.5mm spacing left where the nut is running out of thread - meaning the nut will not torque down properly. After speaking with Paul over at ARP again he mentioned that he has a M8 washer that is double thick but to first use a bottoming tap in the holes. There is at least a couple millimeters in the bottom of the blind hole in the block that can be used to gain a few extra threads, which in combination with the thicker washer may solve the problem.

Now to find a local machine supply shop that sells bottoming taps as it is something I really do not want to pay shipping on.

http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/arp-mains. jpg

Originally posted by CODE4

sweeeeeeeeeeeet

Thanks for the info, I been rounding stuff up for a 2.4 build this winter.

Man, if this was around earlier I would have jumped on it, it's great info. I went with all new OEM studs for the main and bedplate on my 2.4. I hope I don't see any issues down the road, though.

Since this main stud kit was pieced together from completing the stud application form from ARP it is not a plug and play. The M8 studs available are either too short or a tad too long. Run as is, the M8 nuts will run out of thread before you can accurately have a torque reading. Solution?

Run an M8 bottoming tap in the holes as there is a couple mm of block material that can be cut. The washer listed above is usable but I am ordering a thicker & wider one that will better be suited for the application. Check the pictures out and you can see how the M8 washer is not utilizing the available clamping surface.

Note the balance shaft oiling hole tapped and plugged. Bedplate dowels were not installed for photos.

And the SRT pan for looks:

http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/SRTpan-block.jp g (full resolution)

Brass expansion plugs are in.

http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/freezeplug1.jp g
http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/freezeplug2.jp g
http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/freezeplug3.jp g

Today I plastigauged the mains, installed the ARPs, and got it torqued down. Green donut jelly anyone? Main bearing clearances all came in @0.0015". After torquing, the crank spun with the slightest effort. Beautiful.

http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/bedplate_install1.jp g
http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/bedplate_install2.jp g
http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/bedplate_install3.jp g
http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/bedplate_install4.jp g

<full res pictures>

god. this makes my 2.0 build look like fuckn CRAP

Hahah... I take that as a compliment I guess.

This Information has been Wiki'ed.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=2.4%20EDZ%20ARP%20Main%20Studs