Has anyone successfully taken off their AFX UDP and then reinstalled it? I'm going to fix my cam gears this weekend so they will have to take off the UDP to get the cam gears off right? Or is that not necessary? I remember reading about how some people said they couldn't get the AFX UDP off after it was installed. Any one know?

well, i had the afx on when satan did my timin belt. im sure that the 5ton 3jaw gear puller will fit, just use yoru imagination.

also, i gotta pimp out my writeup, so check the link to my site.

good luck. teh only problem that i would forsee is grabbing the pulley with the jaws. im sure once u get under the car, you will figure out what you need to do.

and yeah, u gotta take the udp off if u wanna get to the timin belt

You actually use a standard harmonic balancer puller on it, that's what the three holes are for.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

The AFX UDP removes and re-installs without any problem. Like Michael mentioned, use the the harmonic damper puller NOT a 3 jaw puller.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...

Well, the pulley is aluminum, and the crank is steel. Wouldn't they auto-weld together? I know that aluminum and steel like to corrode together. Why doesn't this?
-=B-=

>Well, the pulley is aluminum, and the crank is steel.
>Wouldn't they auto-weld together? I know that aluminum and
>steel like to corrode together. Why doesn't this?

The pulley has a steel insert where it attaches to the crank. Dont think it gets hot enough for that either.

Well, Aluminum and Steel can autoweld at any temperature. Shit, wheels will autoweld to hubs by themselves sometimes. Annoying metals... As long as the autowelding is part of the pulley itself, it won't be a problem.
-=B-=

Don't worry Marcus...it will/should be the same taking off the AF/X as it was installing it. Actually, it should be easier if you or the one who installed it is doing it again. Also you shouldn't have to remove the AF/X pulley when changing your cam gears. You only have to remove the belts. Hope this helps.

How did you take the tension off of the timing belt to get enough room to take the old cam gears off and new ones on?

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads