1/2" studs will be ordered from ARP and block will be drilled/tapped for them.

goin to try big boost this summer after the build's complete. Never dealt with 1/2" studs before so....

question: is 90 ft/lb sufficient or more?

A quick search reveals 100 ft/lb. And can someone explain to me WTF is an "o-ringed setup" and how to do it???

Having said that, this site sums it up correct?: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0307pon_ringing/index.html

(boost will not surpass 28 psi BTW)

Not sure about your torque specs, I would go with what ARP says for that fastener. Step it up in stages of course.

As far as O-ringing is concerned, it is when the head/deck is bossed to accept an o-ring to aid in sealing the cylinder pressure. Most competent machine shops can do this for you.

95lbs on all bolts. I know it sounds strange even though the shorter bolt is the same torque as the longer bolt, but that is ARP's recommendation (the torque number is not. That's just general experience info). The Neon guys periodically have this conversation.

As for O-ringing, IMO it's not necessary.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
I know it sounds strange even though the shorter bolt is the same torque as the longer bolt, but that is ARP's recommendation

it doesn't arp recommends 85 ft/lb for our studs and I did mine at 90 all the way around. seal was fine. Thanks for the input mark. You too code4

sorry to bring this thread back.

Using the 1/2" arps, i've never thought about this but, cometic has recommended that to ensure a proper seal at higher boost levels, a headstud retorque is recommended after an engine heat cycle has been performed.

This ensures that the settling studs and HG are properly sealed a final time.

Is this really necessary? I just don't wanna take the whole damn valvetrain apart while it's in the car, retorque, time and bullshit all over again if i don't have to...

You cant get to the head bolts by just removing the VC?

Or am I mind blanking here.

Originally posted by teklein
You cant get to the head bolts by just removing the VC? Or am I mind blanking here.

you have to pull the camshafts unless you've got some crazy shallow sockets and high torque wobble sockets.

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
Using the 1/2" arps, i've never thought about this but, cometic has recommended that to ensure a proper seal at higher boost levels, a headstud retorque is recommended Is this really necessary?

This point has been brought up in many of my conversations. I'm guessing that the recommendation is based in old V-8 philospy of heat expansion for two different metals etc.

I have never done it and many high horsepower guys never do it. I've just never seen a problem with it.

Back in "the day" (and my day goes back), we recommended heat cycle retorqueing for just about everything. I tried it without on these engines and never had problems. Researched a bit on what others did. Got first hand knowledge of aquaintences around here and came to the conclusion that I'm not going to do it.

Just my 2 cents.

i guess the combination of using an adequate amount of arp lube and the 90+ ft/lb of torque on all bolts, I guess I shouldn't worry either.

Just thought i'd throw that concern out there. Tim, I thought that too, tried it before and didn't have the room for a straight socket. Ronin is right, but may I ask where you purchase the shallow sockets and the swivel high torque extension? curious

I had a problem with a headgasket leaking, I pulled the valvecover and was able to loosen all of the head studs and retorque them. I used a regular socket from lowes and a swivel. Of course by the time I was done the swivel was bent and the pins where falling out of it but it beats pulling the cams out again.

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
but may I ask where you purchase the shallow sockets and the swivel high torque extension? curious

Craftsman has a set of impact grade wobbles that should work, then again the regular craftsman ones all come with a lifetime warranty anyway and those might be smaller in order to fit.
plus, sears has a good return policy so i would pick one up and test fit it while you have the valve train apart and if it doesn't fit just return it and be out no money.

thanks foggy. Can you point me in the right direction, like a Web link to what i'll be looking for?