Bought them on eBay, from user l98guy. They are pretty beefy and are solid.

Those look good. What did they run you?

$10 shipped.

Same ones I have!

That seller is awesome too.

Mine rock, beefier than the Mopar counterparts.

i think that the egr is for emissions, right? what is the benifits for the egr block off?

Originally posted by scorpo86
i think that the egr is for emissions, right? what is the benifits for the egr block off?

Well, first off you get like 20 more hp....haha... really it keeps your intake charge cleaner by not polluting it with exhaust gasses.

blocking off the EGR keeps your engine from recirculating hot dirty exhaust back through your intake. it helps to prevent carbon buildup and if you're running a turbo you don't have sudden intake temp spikes that could potentially cause nasty detonation.

Originally posted by 95eclipse420A
Well, first off you get like 20 more hp....haha...

Lmao, i wish it would make 20 more just from that. i just bought them from the same guy. they look soild so ill be happy

Ya those look pretty good. That is something that i would have no problem buying off of ebay. Can't really screw that up after you have a template for it.

I think I bought my block-off plates from the same guy.

More than fair-can't go wrong there.

Look good to me. As long as you get them to seal up properly, you've saved yourself over $50 as compared to the exact same thing from Mopar.

I never understood why those were so over priced from Mopar Performance....

Im thinking about getting a blockoff for my talon. but is there anything i can do to make it not throw a code. my cel is not on now and i dont want it to come on just for that.

Originally posted by eclipserstturbo
Im thinking about getting a blockoff for my talon. but is there anything i can do to make it not throw a code. my cel is not on now and i dont want it to come on just for that.

On my 95, I removed all the metal lines, used both block off plates, and kept the electrical connection hooked to the EGR solenoid. I looped the vac line from one port on the EGR solenoid to the other port on the solenoid.

I've yet to throw a CEL. If fact, I doubt you need to do the vacuum line part of it at all--just be sure to keep the electrical connection hooked up.

well... just ordered my set.

I bought mine from CI, they charged me nearly $10 for shipping, and it came to me via USPS in a brown envelope, the postage stamp was less than $2. I wish I woulda known then, but now I'll know for the next build. :thumbsup

you know, for like $8, you can go to ace hardware and pick up a 3ft stick of 1/4 aluminum and make like 10 sets of these.......they take about 15 min to make both of them on a grinder or cutter.

ok so i bought mine and what do i do with the vacume lines and the wires????
anyone have a write up on this?

Seriously? Cap the vacuum. Secure the harness from dangling around.

Not to sound stupid, but does the EGR solenoid need to continue reading a vacuum source to avoid throwing the CEL? Do I just need to have the harness hooked up and Im good?

I finally got around to hooking mine up, and all I did was remove the valve and metal line. Then I ran the vacuum hose over by my battery and ecu, and took the big vacuum hose off of the sensor, and connected the little vaccuum hose to that. No Problems what so ever... well, other than it smelling pig rich, but I'm still getting 400+ miles to the tank. And all of that metal line shit is out of the way so everything is alot easier to get to when putting in work.

Waiting for mine to come via ups although Im just going to block it off and take off the whole egr system (no emission here in flawduh). Any downsides to taking off the whole system completely?

No. I removed the whole system. Your IM will no longer have dirty gases pumped into it.

Put mine in and removed the EGR system. Still getting a code though. :-(

Thats the thing about removing the whole thing. your going to throw a code. I believe you have to keel the sylenoid connected to not throw a code. Im prob wrong lol, i usually am. So feel free to correct

From what I have been told, having the solenoid connected only stops the system from throwing one code. As soon as you are between 3/4 and 1/4 tank of gas, the ECU cycles the EGR to see if it is running correctly and populates the emissions tables. Once this happens, if the whole system is not conected, it will throw a code. So, the only way to a void throwing a code is to keep the emissions tables unpopulated which can only happen if the solenoid is connected, and you either have more than 3/4 tank or less than 1/4 tank.

Originally posted by MITSUracer123
Thats the thing about removing the whole thing. your going to throw a code. I believe you have to keel the sylenoid connected to not throw a code. Im prob wrong lol, i usually am. So feel free to correct

It varies by year/car. My 95 will throw a code even with the solenoid attached, it needs to see airflow through the EGR system. to keep the system from throwing a code I have to rig up a filter to the EGR valve. Some of the other cars I've seen where guys pulled it off and have never thrown a code.

Like I said, on my 95 talon I took out everything but the sensor and looped the vaccuum lines and never threw a code. Maybe I'm just good like that. lol.

I get a code...
But I want to analyze just what the EGR does real quick. Correct me if I am wrong.

Big picture, EGR has a solinoid valve and an actual EGR valve.
The solinoid opens allowing the vaccuum from the manifold to suck on the EGR valve actuator, which in turn opens the EGR valve. Does that make sense?
But part of the EGR solinoid sits on that little nipple on the EGR valve which is pumping out gasses. Does the Solinoid pull the gasses in through there and read it somehow?

MY big thing is, how in the f&#$ does this thing read flow if I am correct and it is nothing more than a solinoid valve?

From what I understand, depending on year/ECU it actually uses the IAC and MAP sensors to determine flow, not the solenoid valve. That's why putting cut washers with a cigarette filter between the block and the valve works almost every time.

Please elaborate.
I can sort of picture your cut washer method. If you have pictures that would help also.

Originally posted by bzoss
Please elaborate. I can sort of picture your cut washer method. If you have pictures that would help also.

+1 interested...

Originally posted by User_22

Originally posted by bzoss Please elaborate. I can sort of picture your cut washer method. If you have pictures that would help also.

+1 interested...

I'll do a writeup when I drop the engine back in later this month or next month

that would be awesome if someone ever did do a wright up with pics of how to do it with out throwing the code. Correct me if im wrong here, if the code is thrown, the car wont run right due to something telling it there is a problem.

You are wrong.

yea i figured as much lol. thanx i usually am :P