So, I have my egr blocked and thought I had the ecu fooled, please tell me what I did wrong here. From the head, I have the CI motorsports block off, then, I have several washers spacing it out to allow the piece that's supposed to be bolted to the head breathe fresh air instead of exhaust. I then have the egr hooked up exactly how it is stock. it's just sucking air instead of exhaust gas. So, Why would I get a cel for it? Does egr check for temperature?

Edit: ever since I have done the mod I have gotten a cel, so I don't think it's bad, but if it is just faulty, how do I check to see?? I can't stand having a cel, so I need this fixed for OCD reasons. lol.

dude, you own a dsm, if you don't have a cel, then something is wrong with your car...... if you wanna know if it is bad or not, hook it all back up without the block off.

Originally posted by 95eclipse420A
dude, you own a dsm, if you don't have a cel, then something is wrong with your car...... if you wanna know if it is bad or not, hook it all back up without the block off.

Haha, blah blah dsm=cel... :) I guess I will hook it back up without the block off even though I don't want to. :) If it is bad, what usually goes bad?

no it doesn't check for temp only flow

it usually is bad because of a clogged EGR return tube. however there is no CEL for that.
make sure it has a good vacuum hooked to it. if you spliced it off something then it might just be a low Vac.
also make sure the connector is clean and tight

I just pulled the light bulb out and called it a day.

Originally posted by VTECKILLER
I just pulled the light bulb out and called it a day.

Well, I don't think I can just pull the bulb since my car dies almost every time I come to a stop sign. Is that a sign egr failure????

Originally posted by 95eclipse420A
dude, you own a dsm, if you don't have a cel, then something is wrong with your car...... if you wanna know if it is bad or not, hook it all back up without the block off.

WAIT....there's no reason to hook it back up, the way it's hooked up now would allow it to work. SO....My question now is, what part usually goes bad on the egr system?? The black piece or the metal piece that attaches to the head?? that goes to the head. Also, is there any way to test the pieces individually??? TIA

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by 95eclipse420A dude, you own a dsm, if you don't have a cel, then something is wrong with your car...... if you wanna know if it is bad or not, hook it all back up without the block off.

WAIT....there's no reason to hook it back up, the way it's hooked up now would allow it to work. SO....My question now is, what part usually goes bad on the egr system?? The black piece or the metal piece that attaches to the head?? that goes to the head. Also, is there any way to test the pieces individually??? TIA

Get a vacuum pump and connect it to the EGR valve. If the valve opens when you apply vacuum to it, its good.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by 95eclipse420A dude, you own a dsm, if you don't have a cel, then something is wrong with your car...... if you wanna know if it is bad or not, hook it all back up without the block off.

WAIT....there's no reason to hook it back up, the way it's hooked up now would allow it to work. SO....My question now is, what part usually goes bad on the egr system?? The black piece or the metal piece that attaches to the head?? that goes to the head. Also, is there any way to test the pieces individually??? TIA

You can receive a code for the EGR transducer going bad as well. That is the black, round diaphragm located at the corner of the cylinder head if you still have it. There is a two wire harness hooked up to it.Usually the P0403.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0403

Check what the code is that you are receiving and you can troubleshoot further.

to block off my egr, we just blocked the head, and the intake manifold, and left the solenoid plugged in

mine has never thrown a code for it

Originally posted by john97es
to block off my egr, we just blocked the head, and the intake manifold, and left the solenoid plugged in mine has never thrown a code for it

Some do, some don't. mine is blocked completely and I live with the CEL, maybe someday after I get the head rebuilt and get things running again I'll relocate the EGR and put a filter on it just to kill the stupid CEL

Okay, I'm going to check and test everything tomorrow, since it decided to rain like a mother today. Also, my car keeps dieing when I come to a stop anywhere, correct me if I'm wrong please: When I come to a stop, the car is trying to test for egr flow, so the IAC closed the vac leak there and since the EGR has no flow, the car dies. Right? Or do I have another problem with the car dieing? Thanks

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
Okay, I'm going to check and test everything tomorrow, since it decided to rain like a mother today. Also, my car keeps dieing when I come to a stop anywhere, correct me if I'm wrong please: When I come to a stop, the car is trying to test for egr flow, so the IAC closed the vac leak there and since the EGR has no flow, the car dies. Right? Or do I have another problem with the car dieing? Thanks

???? anyone?

I believe this is a symptom of a speed sensor issue. However, other variables are obviously in play.

Okay, please explain to me what causes this: My car has always done this, I will be driving and when I am coming up to a stop, I push the clutch in, as I am coming up to the stop, the rpms will hang up a little bit until the car comes to a complete stop even though the clutch is pushed in all the way. Is that normal?? It has always done that. But now that I am getting a cel for my egr, it dies at every stop sign, it's never done that. Please help

Normal.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Normal.

So that would mean I need to replace the metal valve that bolts to the head, right?

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by bullettdsm Normal.

So that would mean I need to replace the metal valve that bolts to the head, right?

The "metal valve" as you call it, is like 70 or so dollars from RockAuto.

Also, as bullett said, its normal. IIRC the speed sensor sends a signal to the IAC, which causes the RPM's to stay up.

Originally posted by teklein

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by bullettdsm Normal.

So that would mean I need to replace the metal valve that bolts to the head, right?

The "metal valve" as you call it, is like 70 or so dollars from RockAuto. Also, as bullett said, its normal. IIRC the speed sensor sends a signal to the IAC, which causes the RPM's to stay up.

Okay, so I need to replace the speed sensor? What do I need to do to fix my problems??? :)

Okay, I tested my transducer (black diaphram) and it tested good as far as resistance goes. I then tested my IAC motor, it was good. So, I am left to believe it's the actual egr valve that bolts to the head, correct?? This would cause my car to die when I stop, right??? It idles when I stop and since it's testing for egr flow, it closes the iac motor to get air through the egr system, when no air comes in because of the faulty valve, the car dies. Is this correct? Or could it still be the diaphram? (black thingy) lol.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
Okay, I tested my transducer (black diaphram) and it tested good as far as resistance goes. I then tested my IAC motor, it was good. So, I am left to believe it's the actual egr valve that bolts to the head, correct?? This would cause my car to die when I stop, right??? It idles when I stop and since it's testing for egr flow, it closes the iac motor to get air through the egr system, when no air comes in because of the faulty valve, the car dies. Is this correct? Or could it still be the diaphram? (black thingy) lol.

So, does anyone know anything concerning my last post???^^^^^^^

I still am having trouble with this egr thing. Can someone tell me if the egr has no flow, can it cause the car to die at idle??

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
I still am having trouble with this egr thing. Can someone tell me if the egr has no flow, can it cause the car to die at idle??

No, it shouldn't. The ECU will flow test the EGR, and if there is no flow, it will throw a code and not use the EGR.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
Okay, I tested my transducer (black diaphram) and it tested good as far as resistance goes. I then tested my IAC motor, it was good. So, I am left to believe it's the actual egr valve that bolts to the head, correct?? This would cause my car to die when I stop, right??? It idles when I stop and since it's testing for egr flow, it closes the iac motor to get air through the egr system, when no air comes in because of the faulty valve, the car dies. Is this correct? Or could it still be the diaphram? (black thingy) lol.

NO! the EGR has nothing to do with your car dying. all the computer does is checks for pressure and temperature difference in the manifold when it's supposed to be open to make sure it's working. NOTHING ELSE. stop asking about the EGR.

several people have already mentioned the speed sensor in the transmission, have you checked it?

during normal operation while moving the IAC is closed. when you push in the clutch to come to a stop the speed sensor tells the ECU that the car is still moving and that the IAC needs to open so that the engine doesn't stall when the throttle is fully closed. If your car is stalling when you come to a stop it's either getting a faulty signal from the speed sensor or the IAC is moving too slowly.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by 97AllMtr Okay, I tested my transducer (black diaphram) and it tested good as far as resistance goes. I then tested my IAC motor, it was good. So, I am left to believe it's the actual egr valve that bolts to the head, correct?? This would cause my car to die when I stop, right??? It idles when I stop and since it's testing for egr flow, it closes the iac motor to get air through the egr system, when no air comes in because of the faulty valve, the car dies. Is this correct? Or could it still be the diaphram? (black thingy) lol.

NO! the EGR has nothing to do with your car dying. all the computer does is checks for pressure and temperature difference in the manifold when it's supposed to be open to make sure it's working. NOTHING ELSE. stop asking about the EGR. several people have already mentioned the speed sensor in the transmission, have you checked it? during normal operation while moving the IAC is closed. when you push in the clutch to come to a stop the speed sensor tells the ECU that the car is still moving and that the IAC needs to open so that the engine doesn't stall when the throttle is fully closed. If your car is stalling when you come to a stop it's either getting a faulty signal from the speed sensor or the IAC is moving too slowly.

Thanks for the responses, I know I read the previous replies wrong and realize that now.....oops. I know it's not iac, so I guess I will be checking the speed sensor next. Thank you!

when i first blocked off my egr, i was useing resisotrs to fool the ecu, and never threw a code, but after i striped the car for dead, and ended up bringing her back to life i blocked the egr off again, but just left the sensors unplugged and didnt throw ne codes lol

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
So, I have my egr blocked and thought I had the ecu fooled, please tell me what I did wrong here. From the head, I have the CI motorsports block off, then, I have several washers spacing it out to allow the piece that's supposed to be bolted to the head breathe fresh air instead of exhaust. I then have the egr hooked up exactly how it is stock. it's just sucking air instead of exhaust gas. So, Why would I get a cel for it? Does egr check for temperature? Edit: ever since I have done the mod I have gotten a cel, so I don't think it's bad, but if it is just faulty, how do I check to see?? I can't stand having a cel, so I need this fixed for OCD reasons. lol.

let me start off by saying hello to everyone, i am new to this site, i am a ASE master certified mechanic and have been building and tuning domestic, domestic rice, nissan and dsm for about 14 years, im not here to correct anything or anyone in any threds but from what you have described, the egr is a source for a vacume leak if it is not mounted to the head, its like taking loose a pcv hose from behind a MAF on cars equiped with a MAF, its reading unmetered air, in your case the ECU dictates how much fuel to add based on its signal from the TPS, IAC and MAP based on overall vacume. with the EGR possibly causeing a vacume leak, the ECU isnt able to compensate fuel +/- because the signal from the TPS and IAC tells the ECU that air has been cut off, the MAP says that its still getting a positive reading and the ECU is not able to compensate, it would basicly be like unbolting the TB while the car is running, it will flat out die. my info is based on the info i got from u. my opinion is just remove the EGR tube n block off the hole for it on the intake and leave the "black thingy" plugged in, but be sure to remove the vacume lines hooked to it and block off the vacume hose port on the back of the intake.

I just removed the tube components, used the block off plate in the rear and on the side of the block, left the electrical connector plugged into the EGR solenoid and looped the vac line from one port on the EGR Solenoid to the other.

No CEL lights and no issues on my 95.