Driving a few days ago, when i would go into boost the car would misfire bad. as i kept driving it and the hotter the car got the worse the mis fire, eventually i would hit the gas and it wouldnt go anywhere and felt like i was holding the brakes very lightly and the car would sputter and shut off ...it would ussually start then drive for a lil more and then die again until it just would not start anymore. i would let the car cool off for a few hours and then it starts and drives fine again until it gets hot and the problems came back. driving yesterday tryign to get to my mechanic, the car shut off on me and i was able to limp it to a parking lot where it is now and hasnt been able to run. i am getting spark, and changed the fuel pump with another walbro and it primes and changed the relay and rerouted the fmu so its a fuel line from the rail to the pump, and changed the plugs and wires...and still nothing, it starts and then dies a second after...what can i do??

Thanks Ivan

Did you check the harness running along the EGR tube? If that shorts out it can cause some issues such as yours.

Yea check the EGR tube make sure nothings burned. Did u check for codes? Check your crank sensor sometimes oil goes into the plug and when the car worms up it starts missfire bad.

egr has been blocked off for a while, and the wires seem to be fine, ill check the crank sensor as soon as i get a ride to my car. anything else i should check? like i said it starts and just dies now..wont stay on running, thankss!

Ivan

and i have not checked for codes, will auto parts store lend me a scanner for the price of free?

if you still have the egr pipe there it can still melt wires. even if blocked off. Crank/cam sensors prevent starting completley iirc. pull your plugs and check for oil. maybe need a new vc gasket? if not run a compression test to be safe.

You could always buy a OBD scanner from walmart and return it when youre done if you don't have bank. Or go to a pawn shop and look for one. I got mine for 10 bucks.

ill check the sensor...but the pip is not there anymore its removed thanks!

check the coolant temp sensor. if it's dead it the car will start normally but it'll die almost immediately because the ECU doesn't know whether to run in open or closed loop

where is the collant temp. sensor!?!?!?!? 100 bucks to anyone who can get my car running in south florida hollywood area!! 7863332577

Right under your upper radiator hose on the engine. it's the bigger sensor with a 2 wire connection. best way is to test it for resistance before pulling it from the housing.

I checked those sensors and they seem to be fine..i went to start up the car today after sitting for a while and it started and stayed on...actualy idle'd decent but as it was warming up maybe 45 sec. into it the idle starting getting crappy and after about 3 min on it died. it stays running now for a few minutes more but with a bad idle, when i press the gas it acts like it wants to die...my vacumm is jumping around and the air/fuel guage is almost all the way at lean while its just sitting there..is it possible the walbro190 is not flowing enough for my stock injectors with a 12:1 fmu?? or anyother ideas??? I took a video of my gauges on my phone so u guys can see what i mean .. <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i74.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/Ivan_E2003/01-13-09_1809.flv">

The video is the car starting and then when i go down to air/fuel i turn it off and on again...also the clicking noise, sounds like its coming from the fuel tank, as far as the RPM' the needle sits anywhere from 1000 to 0 just bouncing around

If your car is 95 im pretty sure its your crank sensor. But check for codes to .

Originally posted by nyBoosted420a
If your car is 95 im pretty sure its your crank sensor. But check for codes to .

he said it starts and THEN dies. a bad crank or cam sensor would never fire in the first place

checked the crank sensor and got my money back cuz it didnt help...would faulty injectors do this??? i am running stock injectors with 12:1 FMU and a walbro 190 at 7psi...no check engine light either...

have you even checked the CTS yet?

no sir should be in at auto zone tomm. they didnt have any in stock.

changed the coolant sensor and car is actually running now but when i get close to WOT it starts misfiring, so ima try a new coilpack and see what happens, but thanks for the help!! you guys are swell!

trying to start it with a bad CTS probably fouled the plugs a bit, check them first and go from there. just get the basic $2 NGK's, nothing works better.

right on again bro i pulled the plugs and they were completely black thanks alot for all your help.

problem is back again....drove fine all day today, i changed the coil pack and plugs because the car was still misfiring it got alot better, went to the gas station to fill up and came home...after sitting for about an hour i went to go start it up and it started and then ideled bad and died and now im back to it not even statring anymore.

hi, what codes you have? check u'r ASD relay....

no codes the only one it throws is egr which i blocked off about a year ago...what is the asd relay?? and where is it?...also car ran fine again today as long as i stayed out of boost...the problem is boost related i think because thats where it is most evident .. just to recap i am running a 60trim t3/t04e, 12:1 fmu and stock injectors on a 38mm wastegate with a half bar spring, i was running a walbro 255hp before and am now using a walbro 190 after i thought the pump was my problem.

Pull the plugs and clean then . I bet the car will run good for a bit.Some how u got a problem with your fmu.Try a diferent spring .

It's not the ASD relay (it's the one that's mounted on the firewall by your brake master cylinder, gives power to the coil pack, it's right beside the fuel pump relay), because it wouldn't even hiccup if that was bad. Have you verified that maybe your timing belt didn't skip a tooth? Also check your fuel pressure, your FMU may have a torn diaphram, not holding pressure.

i put new spark plugs and coil pack and it still happens...it drives fine as long as i stay out of boost...once i get into about 3psi and up it starts feeling like fuel cut/misfire/studder...can i pop the fmu open and visually see if there is damage or do i need to get another one?

are you using a missing link or a FCD?

dont think i need it i have an early 95

If it wasn't having issues before then that's probably not the problem.

I'd lean toward checking the FMU like others have said

havent had time to check anythign yet due to work, but i did notice today while driving, i was about a block from my house and decided to see if it still had prbolems going into boost...and it didnt at all...i went around my neighborhood and it was boosting all good and fine, no misfire or anything...but i also noticed my boost gauge was getting close to about 8-9psi when my wastegate has a half bar spring in it...could my wastegate not opening up fully be the cause of everything??