MODS:

Type-Name-Price-HP INC.-Max Inc.

Intake-AEM Cold Air Intake-$259-8-12
Intake-Overbored Throttle-$300-1-2
Intake-Heat Shielding for Intake Pipe and Manifold-$80-1-3
Intake-Polish-$150?-5-8
Cams-Are there cams for a 97 N/A eclipse, havent found any.
Cams-AEM Adjustable Cam Gear-$360-4-7
ECU-Haltech E6K Standalone ECU-$1300-?-10 15
Spark-Magnecor Spark Plug Wires-$79- Below-2
Spark-HKS Twin Power Ignition Amplifier-$477-below-4
Spark-Iridium Spark Plugs-$68-2-6
Drivetrain-AF/X Underdrive Pulley-$199-15-17
Drivetrain-Clutch Masters Alluminum Flywheel (7lbs.)-$569-25-40
Internals-High Compression Pistons(reinforced head)-$1200-6-10
Internals-Light Weight Connecting Rods-$600-6-10
Internals-High Strength valves-$200 300-0-0
Exhuast-Polished-$150-5-8
Exhuast-Greddy Headers-$419-3-5
Exhuast-Buscher Racing Cat-$150-2-5)-
Exhuast- N/A Tuned Cat-back-$689-2-4

Would it be possible to achieve 241 hp, or possibly 292 hp, or is 198 hp a better number(really sounds low). Don't pull the price crap on me just give an honest opinion. No turbo drivers please!Change whatever you want and give me your estimate. Oh, the price came to $7299, I could probably find better prices too.
Thanks

You know what i'd do with 8g's. I would run 11's turboed of course.

Is it me or did I specifically say, don't pull the price crap and no turbo owners. Learn to comprehend what you read.

with $6000 you can get a stage V turbo set-up and run more than u can think of with the rite tunning

I guess they are right, most people who rice up their cars are pretty mindless.

my arent we an ass!!

they are saying turbo your N/A!! idiot....

for the cash you would be forking out you could go easily stage 4 and outdo any HP gains by those listed mods....

learn to comprehend what you read!!

I know, and I sai I didn't want to turbo my N/A, look at the damn last paragraph.

By far turboing your N/A is the most cost effective way to gain HP, shit for that matter throw a 75 shot of juice at it and still get as much HP as all those listed mods, if you are against a turbo kit then so be it, but you asked for opinions and just because someone says go turbo doesnt require a smart ass response.

Chill out!!

>or is 198 hp a better number(really sounds low)

You would be lucky to achieve that, and I emphasize Lucky.

That is why people are saying just spend the money on a turbo setup.
there is no reason to get all snappy and start putting people down.

ok.. my opinion.. i would think that the 198hp is more possible with some of those mods.. now i believe there are some cams out for our cars, but not sure.. and some of those estimates were a bit high.. i wouldnt worry too much for expensive plugs and wires, but do consider somethign like msd ignition. ecu thing wont work i dont think. now the internals.. that will help.. raise the compression and get forged internals.. that will definatly raise hp.. so you can shave off about 2k with some of the things that wont work that well anyways and still attain a decent N/A setup.. also..... there is the possibility of a stroker kit that will also be ver benifitial to our engines in the torque and power range. Howell is working on it, and you can do a search for information on it in the forums.. and like others say for that much money you can get a good turbo setup.. but i myself am considering a high compression N/A setup beforehand and it appears that you are thinking along the same route.

Thanks, I wasn't sure about the computer, I'm thinking of going into racing in the SCCA and saw that the computer does datalogging which would be helpful.

oh and dont forget about your suspension.. that will take a good nother 1-2k for a good setup.. doubt you'd want to race on stock suspension..

Yeah, I was looking at the B&G coilovers, look real nice, and some 17 inch wheels, some sway-bars, and a good strut tower brace. Found some good aero add-ons, I just plan on gettin the sides and back kit, a front chin spoiler, and a small touring car wing.

ok.. not bad... dont forget shocks.. all in all you seem to know what you want.. and have done your homework.. also if you want looks get the 17s but if you want to stay fast and agile find some good wide 16in rims and wider tires..

oh and dont forget about brakes.. ss brake lines.. twin piston calipers.. slotted drilled rotors..

just try to remember that the people on this board however they may come across sometimes.. are just trying to help.. :-)

I know, I just get stuff about turbos all the time and a said not to say anything about turbos and I'm a little tired. SOrry if I offended anyone.

Ya, your probably looking at close to 200-210 depending on good tuning on a dyno which will cost you more too. But I am with iamnotwhoiam about the stroker kit if you plan on staying NA, and by the sound of your attitude thats what you want to do. But if you plan on going to do SCCA they have certain classes, as I am sure you know, but you would need to know what class you plan on running to know what mods you can perform to your car. But I would spend the majority of the money on suspension myself and 17's are a bit big unless you plan on getting some very light rims. There quite a few guys running the SCCA so they would be better to help you out.

As for your attitude I think it stinks. I know you don't want to here about the turbo thing but it is a better way to go, but again your class will determine what mods are exceptibal. So for a newbie like yourself to come on this board and bad mouth our peeps on such a well rounded group of people that we have we have here, is LUDACRIS! But I am no admin. so I'll shut up. HOPE THAT HELPS!!!

Ya, the first step only allows suspension and intake, exhaust changes. But I'm looking at going into the gt3 cat. that allows more, not fully sure on what I can do, and theres a few others i'm interested in, like possibly rallying.

Rallying would be awsome but I think you would better off with AWD. But good luck in what class you decide.

If you are really loking at racing then you want to go with smaller diameter wheels. Even going to 14-15 inch wheels is not a bad idea. They will save you a considerable amount of weight and when you widen the tire then you wil get a bette bite.
Goog Luck.

First I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you came from whiney message boards where everybody wants a turbo on your car or will tell you to buy a different car to get more performance(with a different engine) But a good way to make a first impression is not to knock on people. We are a good group here who really help each other out. (end preaching)

And you can't just add up advertised hp gains... and get to a total, mods will work more together, and some mods will bring more out of the motor in tandum with another.

With that said. I also plan on going NA. I think it's possible to hit 200hp. Will require work. High compression, cams etc. (BTW Crower is working on Cam for us, none are drop in, at the moment, either go regrinds or Neon cams and index then yourself, or wait for Crower). I would go with some different products than on yoru list. Say a Crane Ignition instead of HKS, cheaper and you can get a timing adjustment knob for the cockpit. I suggest the Stroker kit in the works from Howell Automotoive with H.C. pistons. Maybe some other suggestions but I have to run and don't remember your list...

Any questions on NA let me know Fast420A and others also have a lot of info on it.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

im selling AEM cam gears $250 brand new!!! in RED

email me at flossinpnoyracer@aol.com

look, u obviously got the member since going on. That's no problem. U wanna step up and say people who rice up their cars are mindless? U said that to a turbo car that'll smoke your ass you fuckin prick! Back off and keep the attitude to yourself. They were just trying to help u out, I suggest you post somewhere else and take your attitude with you, and shove that 8 G's up your ass. That's just my opinion. No offense or anything. :P

I shoulda read the whole thing. But just advice, don't come here after being on for 5 days talking to veteran members that are well respected that way. That's how you lose knowledge, because you talk down to the guys that have your answers. Remember that.

Don't hate the newbies, they just need to spend some time reading and Searching the Archives for info and to see who knows their shit. And don't tell anyone to leave the board, thats just fucked up man!

Consider this thread Fake Locked! ;-)

current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I didn't hate on him. Just saying, I'm tired of attitudes, so many people left cuz of people doing that shit. It's not needed at all. Didn't say he should leave, just said if his attitude couldn't get better. I guess I shoulda read down further, but it shoulda been locked right off. That was just wrong how he treated some of the most helpful members at first. Nothing against Newbies, we were all the new guy at some point.

Ok well how about buy PuRe RaGe's race engine for $3500.

Spend 3 times as much as a turbo owner for slower times ;)
To each his own, it depends on what you want to do I guess.

All i gotta say is that you're REALLY lucky to have found 2gnt and all the nice people on here who spend the time to reply, even though you disrespected almost everyone in one stroke.

So here is my car advice to you:

Fast420a and others have gone NA with the car, so you'll have alot of advice on what to do. Even AF/X Mr. Howell is on this forum.. and he knows his 420a's.

If you're going to drag, the best way to get better time is to completely strip your car.. that's what most NA people do on IDRC.

If you're going to rally... might as well go turbo.

From all the theory on NA cars that i've read on the forum (read: go search through the forum and archives for more info.), it seems that if you break 200 hp, it won't be by much.. and you'll run high 14's at best. And that's from going all out.

I'm still with the turbo guys though... just go turbo and you'll save so much money. If you're STILL dedicated to NA.. then sell your car and buy a neon. In which case.. this guy will be your new role model: http://www.importdrag.com/racers/ScottMohler.shtml

Oh and I don't see your car running pretty good either....
Where is your fuel mods? no upgraded fuel pump?...Fuel pressure regulator?...Injectors? Fuel Rail?

The mods you have list would be nice but it wouldn't run that great and the most power you would push would be around 180hp....You can't add power without adding more fuel ;)

even with the stand alone management system it still has limits

Enough name calling, I don't want to have to lock, if it turns into a name calling thread with no info.

Staying NA, you have to get farther along to warrant needing larger injectors. Untill you have full porting polishing high compression cams etc. The stock fuel set up should be good with a fuel management system. Until you get higher amounts of power than with just the bolt ons. A good thing to do whould be to to check out Corbin's pages on how to calculate injector size. (I haven't done it yet since I don't have enough power to warrant larger injectors yet.)

Since I don't knoiw if the link on the main page has been updated yet here it is. Just about all you need to know about a fuel system, written by one of our own.
http://www.geocities.com/vttalon/tech.html

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Wow I'm so sick of people yelling at eachother. Don't people realize that when you spit mindless profanity and crap out of your mouth it just makes you look like that much more of a moron?

If you are talking about SCCA Solo II (autocross), you can't modify your intake (with the exception of a replacement filter) for the stock class. I believe that eclipses/talons are G-stock. When I ran back in September/October I had to run ST-S because I have an injen short-ram. If you want to run stock class you have to leave your stock air box in there. I'm pretty sure that you can mod the suspention though.