I searched but all I could find was coolant in the oil and oil in coolant which is most likely a HG. I've got oil in my coolant, but the oil looks and smells fine. I have no smoke out of the tailpipe. My compression came back at 170 across the board. The car overheats on long drives, drives over an hour and a half. The coolant almost looks like a milkshake. I'm guessing it's one of the following, HG, cracked head, cracked block? I'm just curious as to why the mix is only one way. Is it because the pressure in the oil system is higher than the pressure in the coolant system. And no I didn't pour oil into my radiator cap by accident :P. Any way to diagnose this without taking the motor out and inspecting each peice of it?

Take off your coolant cap. Run engine. Give it throttle and see if bubbles rise in the coolant or if the coolant spits out, if it does, it's most likely your HG.

You can also do a leakdown test:

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html --> Engine --> Leakdown Test

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks
Take off your coolant cap. Run engine. Give it throttle and see if bubbles rise in the coolant or if the coolant spits out, if it does, it's most likely your HG.

This ia gonna tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITCOOLANTISHOT, and i can tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITITSGONNASHOOTCOOLANTEVERYWHEREMOSTOFTHETIMEANYWAY!

Do a leakdown and get out from under the shade tree.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks Take off your coolant cap. Run engine. Give it throttle and see if bubbles rise in the coolant or if the coolant spits out, if it does, it's most likely your HG.

This ia gonna tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITCOOLANTISHOT, and i can tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITITSGONNASHOOTCOOLANTEVERYWHEREMOSTOFTHETIMEANYWAY! Do a leakdown and get out from under the shade tree.

Mine doesn't "SHOOTCOOLANTEVERYWHERE" lol. Also if you see it turn a milky color it's your headgasket. And if you're thinking it.. just because you have good compression doesn't mean it's not your HG.

I have been wondering that myself because if i run my engine with the rad cap off coolant comes out. That is what led me to do a compression test but got 175 on each cylinder. Looks like I am doing a leakdown test as well.

I hope its ok, you just got your car together.

Originally posted by baxsom
I have been wondering that myself because if i run my engine with the rad cap off coolant comes out. That is what led me to do a compression test but got 175 on each cylinder. Looks like I am doing a leakdown test as well. I hope its ok, you just got your car together.

Good Luck with that. That is why I need the crank. I went through quite an ordeal with the headgaskets. I think this one is number 3, not including the one that was on it when I got it (which was leak-free). The first one was leaking oil around the back drivers side bolt, I used felpro bolts and a felpro gasket. The second one I put on arp head studs, and torqued to 65 like it says to do. I had also changed the oil so it was fresh, and it leaked coolant in to my oil bad, but my oil was new so I really couldn't tell. Took it for a few test drives, that's when I spun my bearing. Did bearings but I still need a crank. So I changed it one more time, and torqued it to 90 this time, if it leaks this time, im letting the shop do it.

-Nate
________________
-86 Cavalier CS 2.0 3spd auto
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator, Hurst Short Shifter
-All-Motor Buildup on the way
-VIS Invader hood, R34 front, Halo Proejctors, M3 LED Mirrors, Projector Fogs

Yea leakdown test is next on the list. And no when I turn the car on with the cap off it doesn't bubble up visibly. It does however rise and lower and sometimes spit out. I'm planning on doing the leakdown test tomorrow, I guess i'll be looking for bubbles in the coolant and feel for air out of the dip stick, anything else I should be looking for? I dunno this just seems weird to me that there is no coolant in the oil but oil in the coolant, if there was I would say headgasket and be done with it. It's not that much of a problem tearing it down, I kind of like it, that is as long as I don't break anything.

I forgot to add I did check the compression the time when I spun my rod bearing, and it was at 195 all the way across. It ran fine, there was one small drip coming from the back on that one which I assume it was oil. If it would idle for a while the temp would go up just a hair, but once the coolant leak would have got worse I am sure it would have overheated.


-Nate
________________
-86 Cavalier CS 2.0 3spd auto
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator, Hurst Short Shifter
-All-Motor Buildup on the way
-VIS Invader hood, R34 front, Halo Proejctors, M3 LED Mirrors, Projector Fogs

Originally posted by DarkOne
This ia gonna tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITCOOLANTISHOT, and i can tell you that HOLYFUCKINSHITITSGONNASHOOTCOOLANTEVERYWHEREMOSTOFTHETIMEANYWAY! Do a leakdown and get out from under the shade tree.

HAHAHA, isn't that the truth!

I have a feeling you'll be taking the head off sometime real soon.


-----------
the first solution that comes to mind for any new problem with my car usually involves a can of bad gas and a match....:wallbash

You should have seen my #1 rod bearing that I spun, and once it happened I knew exactly what it was. It happened in my Avenger once, before I did all my work and only had one car, I wasn't really sure what it was so I kept driving it until I could get it to the shop. About 3 or 4 days later, BANG, and it wouldn't start back up. I should have checked under the hood but I never did and I bet I put the rod through the block. I needed a another motor. So, when it happened in my Eclipse, I only drove it straight home, about 2 miles, keeping my RPMs as low as possible, and when I took it out it was really black looking, with streaks along it from the crank. I didn't wear completely through it though.

Oh, in case you guys couldn't tell I am a little bit bored here at work... Only a half hour to go yet.

-Nate
________________
-86 Cavalier CS 2.0 3spd auto
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator, Hurst Short Shifter
-All-Motor Buildup on the way
-VIS Invader hood, R34 front, Halo Proejctors, M3 LED Mirrors, Projector Fogs

On the ford 390, the last heads/blocks that were cast, they had this issue sometimes. Where the oil & water journals ran really close, oil would seep into the coolant.

Oil psi is typically higher than coolant. If there's a head gasket leak from the oil passage to the water passage, it could send a very small amount over constantly. The 2gnt coolant system is at something like 16 pounds, while the oil system is anywere from 2 to 4 times that, maybe even more, so it's not far fetched for the oil system to push oil into the coolant.

I wonder how difficult it will be to see if the headgasket is broken between the passages.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
I wonder how difficult it will be to see if the headgasket is broken between the passages.

Well, if you've got the gasket sitting on a table, I'm sure it's not too hard. :P

I have oil in my coolant, oil on the back of my block, oil on the bottom of the chassis, oil in the driveway, oil in my breakfast cereal, but my compression numbers show it too.

If you replaced the HG without having the head milled again, it's going to leak again. It's why I'm leaking today... x(

Welp guess it's time to buy a new HG, and get the head milled, and I guess pick up some adjustable cam gears.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by BlackMagic I wonder how difficult it will be to see if the headgasket is broken between the passages.

Well, if you've got the gasket sitting on a table, I'm sure it's not too hard. :P I have oil in my coolant, oil on the back of my block, oil on the bottom of the chassis, oil in the driveway, oil in my breakfast cereal, but my compression numbers show it too. If you replaced the HG without having the head milled again, it's going to leak again. It's why I'm leaking today... x(

I didn't have mine milled but I checked it the best I could for warpage, it looked okay, so I just sanded it down with my mouse sander as smooth as I could get it. I just hope the 90ft/lbs and head studs will hold. I used Fel Pro gaskets each time with copper spray sealer.

-Nate
________________
-86 Cavalier CS 2.0 3spd auto
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator, Hurst Short Shifter
-All-Motor Buildup on the way
-VIS Invader hood, R34 front, Halo Proejctors, M3 LED Mirrors, Projector Fogs

napa or most autoparts stores sell a kit to test for HC in your coolant. its 23 bucks. all you do is use the procided tools, take somr drops of coolant drop em in, add some drops of the test chemical, if it changes color...you most likely have a hg leak.

I'm not going to read all the BS in this thread, but your headgasket is blown. Sorry if someone already said that.

No need to read really, the title says it all. Headgasket is mainly what I was thinking, just wanted a second, third, possibly fourth opinion and they're all leaning that way. Oh well, it's not the worst thing that could happen.

The link to the leakdown test on vfaq is broken. Is it the same as a cylinder leak test, put 100psi into the cylinders and see where it comes out? I did it today and all cylinders held pressure.

Here is a pic I forgot I took of my two rod bearings next to each other. The one on the left is the one I spun. The one on the right is the brand new one.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
The link to the leakdown test on vfaq is broken.

Works for me.. but here is what you need to see:

Needs to be TDC.

"4. Apply the compressed air and modulate the knob to get a steady reading
from both faces on the gauge. Use the same pressure on all cylinders.

5. LISTEN to where you can hear the compressed air.

At the crank case: Remove the oil filler cap. If you can clearly hear
a whooshing/howling by listening at the oil filler cap, you're losing
compression through the rings.

At the tailpipe: It is your exhaust valves if you can hear it (or even
feel puffs on your hand) at the tail pipe.

At the intake manifold: It is your intake valves if you can clearly
hear a whooshing/howling by listening at the throttle body/intake manifold.

If the results are inconclusive, it is probably your head gasket.
Update: If you suspect a blown head gasket, which has symptoms such as reduced power, white or blue smoke out the tailpipe, oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. According to this digest post by Rick Shindley (click here), remove the coolant cap and watch the coolant level when you add the compressed air. If it rises or you see bubbles, you have a leaking head gasket."

This is the link that says "click here" if you need it: http://www.dsm.org/archives/1999/10/19991015.txt/44.html