I was wondering if any of you guys are having any kinda starting problems with turbo heat near the starter because i think this is my problem.Does our car after shutdown use any kinda electricity maybe the ECU or something. i got a new battery1000 cranking amps new starter from autozone my alternator is good. after a hot shut down my car will not start but it will start if it is jump started is the starter being heat soaked i think i am the only guy on this board that has had this problem ,I had this problem when i just had some pace setter headers too and headers don't get as hot as a turbo manifold. I have a 95 ESI OBD1 has anyone had problems like this is there a groud wire for the ECU or could it be the starter relay. i've never herd of our starter relays going bad. i even have a starter heat shield. so when i jumpstart my car i am using double the amps too start my car. its winter, man when summer hits i'm really screwed thanks guys is there a power wire for the ECU and ground wire have any of you guys ever had to change the ignition switch.()

I know this is pretty old, but I have had this problem all summer long, and it still has not been fixed...my next choice is just to go return the starter and have them give me a new one in return...

is there anyone out there that has had this same problem and actually fixed it???

I have had the same problem as well, exactly like that. New battery, new starter, new alt and starter relay. I think the relay is somehow getting hot and not working right. I am going to pull it off sometime this week and put a hair dryer to it to see if heat is making it unable to start. If that isn't the problem I will be clueless as to what is causing this problem. I know it is someplace in the starting system because the starter doesn’t turn at all. You just turn the key and nothing happens at all.

Brian

Its not your starter, its your ignition relay. When mine does this, i can jumper the solenoid wire right to the battery with the car on ACC power, and it'll crank over and start immediately. Brad (Super20g) used to have this problem and i discussed my findings with it, he just made himself a push button starter with a momentary switch that connects the solinoid wire to the battery, no problems with it yet. You could try replacing that relay, but mine has done it for so long i'm not sure that a new relay would fix the problem.

I tried testing out my relay...checking it with a meter like described in the manual (when it was already hot from driving) and it still tested good for me...I heard those relays are expensive, like $60 or so...

maybe the directions in the manual are wrong?...any light to shed on that?

>its your ignition relay.

Where is the ignition relay located?

TIA
Brian

It is located on the firewall on the right hand side as you are facing the engine bay. There are 2 of them if you have a m/t. One is for the fuel pump, and the other is for ignition (can't remember which one is which). If you have an auto, then there is a 3rd I believe.

It's "in there somewhere". Those relays are actually relay packs, and probably contain 3 of 4 SPST relays in one package.

I'm still willing to be, whether the relay checks out or not, that if you take the solinoid wire to the battery, the starter will crank when the key won't start it.

Ok, this may not be the solution to my problem but it I found a loop hole in a way.

96 and up cars have the two relays right. One is the fuel relay pn 4687567 (Chrysler pn) and lists for 8.20 on www.chryslerpartsdirect.com

The second relay is listed as a "ECM relay" or ignition relay. Its part number is 4671056 (Eagle parts) and it lists for 36.00 on the same website.

Now you may be able to get is for cheaper because dealers have different pricing matrix. But anyway the two relays are the same part. I took both of them apart and they are perfect twins. The parts that are different are the black covers that go over them as well as the harnesses that go into them. But the plug part (the five pin part) is the same. So you can just pop out the actual relay and put in the old cover and slide the harness into the cover.

All in all it isn’t striking gold but they are 100% the same and you save 28.00clams by ordering the 8.20 relay and putting the business end into the old cover.

Just thought I would share.

Later
Brian

If you want to test out the relays,and use new ones, they are just normal
12 volt automotive SPDT relays. You can grab one up cheap at a alarm/stereo shop. They will plug right into the stock realay connector. The only thing is, there will not be the correct tabs on the new relay to mount it like the other stock relays..I'd never pay for a relay at the dealer unless it was some funky special relay.. I would also test your ignition switch, cause it could be that. Just use a normal 12v test light, and gound the clip end, and probe the starter wire directly at the ignition key cylinder wire harness. The test light should light up if the the switch is providing the power to the starter wire when the key is in the start position.

I dont mean to sound like a 'know it all' but it could be your starter. I actually rebuild starters all the time. If they get hot they will be hard to crank, if cranking at all is possible. Your comentator could be burnt. But it actually seems like it's your igintion.

>I dont mean to sound like a 'know it all'

Ouch. haha

Well, my solution is really a bandaid fix. it works for me, so i was just trying to spread the word, i guess.