what size is this o-ring? could i pick one up at a shop?

Ah the notorious o-ring. no idea what size, i never measured it. Many delaers carry it in stock. its not expensive prolly about 7 bucks.

Terry

thanks terry, yeaaa it sucks and im kind of embaressed because i knew i needed to put it in there i just totally forgot and just realized, like a year later, that i forgot it, so that's most likely what's causing the leak. How much of a pain is it going to be to get to. I know i have to take the crossmember off, oil pan, oil filter and adapter thing, i think i remember some bolts through the oil pump. Do i need to take the crank pulley off to get to them? god i hope not



looks like those 3 i circled need to come out

Originally posted by BlackMagic
Do i need to take the crank pulley off to get to them? god i hope not.

You need to pull the engine, flip it over, and remove the bedplate if we're talking about this guy, here. (You're not the first and you won't be the last. Been there. Done that. Hated it.)

hooolllly hell i've got to pull the whole damn motor, i wish i knew that when i had access to a lift, engine hoist, and engine stand, man im screwed, guess i've gotta live with this for a while. So i guess there is no possible way to do this from under the car then? If there was I guess you would know about it since you've probably rebuilt your motor several times

edit: just searched for bedplate o-ring and found that pulling the motor is basically the only way to do it, so many bad thoughts are going through my head.

Its no fun to do but you can do it in about 5 hours. Only takes an hour to pull the motor.

Have someone help you flip it over on the stand because it is top heavy with the head ect on. Scared the shit out of me when the motor almost came flying off my stand. Since the bedplate is one of your mount points you will need to have the crane bolted to the fron of the motor to support the weight when you remove the stand bolt that is on the bedplate.

Oil pump and pulley must come off.

Dont drive with that leak.....its more oil than you realize.

Every 40 miles i was losing 1 quart.

Terry

sucks. never had the problem with that, with as many times as ive built these engines.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
So i guess there is no possible way to do this from under the car then? If there was I guess you would know about it since you've probably rebuilt your motor several times?

Wish I could do better for you, Curtis. :(

The only consolation I can give you is that there have been something like three people between when I did this in 2003 and your post now who have been in our shoes. Good luck to you.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by BlackMagic So i guess there is no possible way to do this from under the car then? If there was I guess you would know about it since you've probably rebuilt your motor several times?

Wish I could do better for you, Curtis. :( The only consolation I can give you is that there have been something like three people between when I did this in 2003 and your post now who have been in our shoes. Good luck to you.

Actually that arrow is in the wrong place. it should be to the right of the sensor choad. right above the oil filter, you know where the oil passage is?

yea at first i thought it was comming from where the filter adapter thing screws into the block. This wouldn't be such a pain if i have some tools, a garage and some free time. I've been keeping a close eye on the oil level and it hasn't seemed to drop drastically. It's times like this when i wish i lived in a house with like a 2 or 3 car garage and all the tools i could ever need, i'd be in there right now working on it





someone tell me a funny joke

Originally posted by BlackMagic
someone tell me a funny joke

Okay...okay....."Why do women have boobs?"




So you got something to look at when you're talking to em!
hehehehehehehehehe
<silence>


So you got something to look at when you're talking to em!
heheheeheheheheh
<silence>


So you got som....



Brian

Hey man, I recently changed mine without pulling the motor. You have do all the things you said plus loosen the top two transmission bolts and remove the bottom ones. That way the motor and trans will both drop some and leave a gap between the two at the bottom, you have to do this because of the dowell that is on the bottom front hole of the bedplate that goes into the transmission bolt hole. I didn't have to remove any pulleys or anything, just those 3-4 bolts on the pump and the oil filter shit... don't forget the o-ring between the pump and bedplate either! hope this helps. This maybe the dumbass way to do it however lazyness overwhelms me, always.

EDIT: oh yea, i had to remove the cross-member and exhaust. Also the only way I could get the downpipe off mine was to remove the rad w/e fans. I did leave the rear and side motormounts alone. I can't say it worked 100% however because I have a new problem now that started right after this... I did drive it 5-10 miles and there is no leak or funny sounds but for some reason once its warmed up it stutters and bucks and cuts fuel. Runs perfect while cooler than normal operating temp.

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST
Hey man, I recently changed mine without pulling the motor. You have do all the things you said plus loosen the top two transmission bolts and remove the bottom ones. That way the motor and trans will both drop some and leave a gap between the two at the bottom, you have to do this because of the dowell that is on the bottom front hole of the bedplate that goes into the transmission bolt hole. I didn't have to remove any pulleys or anything, just those 3-4 bolts on the pump and the oil filter shit... don't forget the o-ring between the pump and bedplate either! hope this helps. This maybe the dumbass way to do it however lazyness overwhelms me, always. EDIT: oh yea, i had to remove the cross-member and exhaust. Also the only way I could get the downpipe off mine was to remove the rad w/e fans. I did leave the rear and side motormounts alone. I can't say it worked 100% however because I have a new problem now that started right after this... I did drive it 5-10 miles and there is no leak or funny sounds but for some reason once its warmed up it stutters and bucks and cuts fuel. Runs perfect while cooler than normal operating temp.

OH yea, I also removed the starter and clutch slave(just unbolted both and let hang)

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST Hey man, I recently changed mine without pulling the motor. You have do all the things you said plus loosen the top two transmission bolts and remove the bottom ones. That way the motor and trans will both drop some and leave a gap between the two at the bottom, you have to do this because of the dowell that is on the bottom front hole of the bedplate that goes into the transmission bolt hole. I didn't have to remove any pulleys or anything, just those 3-4 bolts on the pump and the oil filter shit... don't forget the o-ring between the pump and bedplate either! hope this helps. This maybe the dumbass way to do it however lazyness overwhelms me, always. EDIT: oh yea, i had to remove the cross-member and exhaust. Also the only way I could get the downpipe off mine was to remove the rad w/e fans. I did leave the rear and side motormounts alone. I can't say it worked 100% however because I have a new problem now that started right after this... I did drive it 5-10 miles and there is no leak or funny sounds but for some reason once its warmed up it stutters and bucks and cuts fuel. Runs perfect while cooler than normal operating temp.

OH yea, I also removed the starter and clutch slave(just unbolted both and let hang)

anyone forsee a problem doing it this way?

technically you aren't supposed to reuse(retorque) main bearings i don't think. You should be fine imo.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
anyone forsee a problem doing it this way?

Well, supposing you can drop the bedplate like he suggests, what will be holding the crankshaft in place? The top halves of all your bearings? I wonder if the crank dropping with the rod ends still torqued would result in the crank pulling all four of your pistons out the bottom with it? Not to mention cleaning the cured anaerobic off of everything down there and resealing it before reinstalling the bedplate.

I dunno. Seems like a lot of critical work to be trying while laying on your back in the driveway. :twitch

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by BlackMagic anyone forsee a problem doing it this way?

Well, supposing you can drop the bedplate like he suggests, what will be holding the crankshaft in place? The top halves of all your bearings? I wonder if the crank dropping with the rod ends still torqued would result in the crank pulling all four of your pistons out the bottom with it? Not to mention cleaning the cured anaerobic off of everything down there and resealing it before reinstalling the bedplate. I dunno. Seems like a lot of critical work to be trying while laying on your back in the driveway. :twitch

The transmission and the oilpump/timingbelt/alt belt holds the crank inplace. Also, It is a slight pain cleaning the sealant off while on your back but its less of a hassle than pulling the motor that is fodamnsho. I just used a razor blade and some carb cleaner and a rag.

EDIT: oh yea, you have to move the a/c compressor and braket out of the way too...

yea everything should be held in place, i guess this is the only way i can do it

More stuff I had to do keeps coming too me. I also had to remove the battery and tray along with the shifter cable closest to the block so that i had room to get to the top two bolts that holds the tranny on. You might also find it helpfull to move the hard coolant lines out of the way too. Also don't forget to remove the bolt that holds the hardpipe going into the water pump. Make sure that you don't pull the top two all the way. Leave them partially or most of the way in, not sure how far i backed them out. Then to put it back together just jack up the motor and put the bolts back in the trans.

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST
More stuff I had to do keeps coming too me. I also had to remove the battery and tray along with the shifter cable closest to the block so that i had room to get to the top two bolts that holds the tranny on. You might also find it helpfull to move the hard coolant lines out of the way too. Also don't forget to remove the bolt that holds the hardpipe going into the water pump. Make sure that you don't pull the top two all the way. Leave them partially or most of the way in, not sure how far i backed them out. Then to put it back together just jack up the motor and put the bolts back in the trans.

So basically, you had to do twice as much work in less than ideal conditions to accomplish the same thing as if you had pulled the motor?

if anyone has a garage, an engine hoist, and an engine stand and the next couple days off in northern virginia tell me, i would love to be able to pull my motor and do this the right way.

Originally posted by DarkOne
So basically, you had to do twice as much work in less than ideal conditions to accomplish the same thing as if you had pulled the motor?

Well I don't see how it can be considered twice the work. If anything its 1/2 the work. But like Curtis, I didn't have an engine hoist at my disposal. Its kinda a pain to do it under the car but it wasn't that bad... IMO its the easier of the two methods. I remember the pita it was to pull the motor and get it back in. I was just trying to tell him how he could do it without pulling the motor because he said thats not an option.

But it *IS* more work. Pulling the motor is easy. Unbolting everything while its in the car to try and get the bedplate off it *NOT* the easy way. I just don't understand this aversion people have to undoing four motor mounts and unbolting the trans.

Originally posted by DarkOne
But it *IS* more work. Pulling the motor is easy. Unbolting everything while its in the car to try and get the bedplate off it *NOT* the easy way. I just don't understand this aversion people have to undoing four motor mounts and unbolting the trans.

i hear ya, id do it in a second if i had a motor hoist/stand, which i actually might have if jeremy and the sova guys can help me out.

so it runs fine in closed loop, but once you hit open loop you run into some problems, that sounds more like an electrical problem. I might have to do it this way because i just have no way of getting the motor out of there in the 5 days i have left at home

I have the SAME problem.. But for now it's done no harm, keep check on your oil, I'm not pulling that damn motor again for some little o-ring until summertime atleast...

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Actually that arrow is in the wrong place. it should be to the right of the sensor choad.

I couldn't find my original image with the text already on it (which pointed to actual leak)
It's been over two years since I had that problem.
The arrow is pointing to the seam between the block and bedplate (my only concnern when making that pic).

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
you know where the oil passage is?

Yes. The idea was to show Mr.5 that he wasn't the only one who'd been through this shit. Sure, it's a dumbshit mistake made by overzealous newbies, eager to get their new engine together and into the car so they can drive it (Hell, I did it too, remember?), but it happens and all you can do is get it fixed and laugh about it later. That's all the pictures are for.

Hey black...we can do it on Saturday at my house if you want to! We can get everyone from SOVADSM to come and lend a hand. Make a post on SOVA if you haven't already.

The problem i see with doing this with the motor in the car is the rear main seal. When you remove the bedplate and the rear main seal slightly mores outwards and you dont catch it or it shifts while your rer-assembling then you are screwed.


Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
The problem i see with doing this with the motor in the car is the rear main seal. When you remove the bedplate and the rear main seal slightly mores outwards and you dont catch it or it shifts while your rer-assembling then you are screwed. Terry

Good point. Rear main might end up leaking worse than the bedplate at that rate.

ah very true i didn't think about that

Yea that was a concern but I decided to risk it. If I ever figure out the current problem I'll see if it leaks over time...

Originally posted by Aggression
Hey black...we can do it on Saturday at my house if you want to! We can get everyone from SOVADSM to come and lend a hand. Make a post on SOVA if you haven't already.

oh wow i just read that, well im goin back to school sunday, so im tryin to stay here as long as i can. How about next weekend? I'll post up on sovadsm