Im thinking about doing a timing belt since I believe mine is off. The belt seems pretty new actually, I want to do it myself but I am scared I will set it wrong and kill me motor upon starting it up afterwords lol. I have read a lot of post on timing and kno how to do it, just not sure if I want to. I want someone else to do it but I am scared if they mess up they wont pay to fix the car. Im kinda confused on what to do. has anyone ever gotten timing done at Pep Boys? Thanks

I did mine, it was the first timing belt Id ever changed, its a pain in the ass because of those long bolts on the pass side motor mount.
other than that its simple. I had the timing 1/2 tooth off the first time but it only took me 1/2 an hour to redo it and get it perfect the second time.

well the belt is fairly new. I kno its off, can I adjust the timing without having to take it all apart? its off around 1 tooth, i kno bc of code 11 and loopy idle. But its not to bad.

I just called around a couple days ago to get quotes to have mine done, and believe it or not the cheapest place to have it done is Satan, at least around here. I'd do my own, but it's just too damn cold right now and mines off real bad, like 3 teeth or so. Satan quoted me $650, and that was for a new belt, tensioner, and water pump and the labor.

Well now I am wondering if it is timing. Today the CEL was on on my way to school and was on when I turned my car off. I started her up this afternoon after school and no CEL at all. I drove for awhile and it came back on. It is will a code 11 but I think its a connector, wire, or something else. The car was actually idling at 1000 and not looping around like a cam. Im starting to wonder lol. Maybe a bad CPS or Crank Sensor?

Like I said to you on AIM, that scanner that Auto Zone/Advanced Auto uses is a generic, $90 scan tool. Sometimes I think it just messes with up 95 guys, IMO. You told me that, if timing was absolutely the problem, wouldn't the CEL be on all the time, instead of sometimes? Is there truth to this guys? It makes sense. Because if it were the sensors that are related to code 11, such as the Cam and Crank sensors, intermittent loss of any of these two sensors would cause that CEL to be on/off randomly. Hell, as I'm typing this, other things are coming to my mind. Maybe the timing is off just a hair, that the ECU doesn't notice sometimes... I dunno.

What I do know is, unlike yourself, I have a PERFECT idle... so perfect that it puts Lindsay Lohan's breasts to shame, and I think her breasts are pretty perfect... until I make a mess on them. My idle is at 850-900RPM.

I think my intermittent loss of these two sensors are because I did not solder the connections of the new pigtails for both sensors, electrical engineering 101. I just simply twisted and shrunk that heat shrink and called it a day. I have gone back and soldered the connection for the Camshaft Position Sensor, but have yet to redue the Crank sensor due to it being under the car; that will be done soon.

Now, what puts my theory into the ground is, in your case, you would get a CEL if either of your two sensor's signals were being intermittently loss to the ECU. Because I have gotten a code 11 before in the past and the description that Auto Zone's scan tool gave me was for the intermittent loss of either Camshaft or Crankshaft position sensors. Whenever I get my CEL scanned now, it is for the same description they are giving you. P1390 - Manfacture Controle
Igntions System Misfire. That description doesn't even suffice what P1390 means; timing belt skipped 1 or more teeth. However, we have both had the timing belt changed recently, well, I have. But, the hydraulic tensioner could be taking shits on us, causing timing problems, because I am re-using mine.

I dunno, this sux0rz.

Timing isn't that bad. I'm confident that if I had the tools, I could have done it myself. (The pulley puller, and the wooden board).

It just takes a while. I'd say that the hardest part is the side motor mount.