This started happening two days ago. My temp gauge needle is up 3/4 (between the middle and H temp) and sometimes I may almost reach HIGH, thats when I stop the car and let it cool down a bit, pretty scary really. I coolant level is fine, but I notice it boiling. I'm sorry, I know this may be an easy symptom to fix but I really have trouble finding the time to fix it (work and school). Any suggestions would be good. I was going to start with the thermostat and radiator cap. If those dont work, then coolant flush. If that doesnt work, then I'll need some help from you guys. Would a 180 degree thermostat and this radiator cap be okay:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=STN&mfrpartnumber=11333&parttype=116&ptset=A

Thanks!

I'm not sure about if that radiator cap is okay but I would definitly try the thermostat first, seeing how it is probably one of the quickest cheapest fixes for your cooling system and probably one of the most common things that fails. Also make sure your fan is turning on. If it doesn't turn on then check the fuses and if there is a blown fuse try replacing and see if it blows again. If it blows again then you might have a short to ground in the wiring somewhere.

First do the dual fan mod with the jumper wire between the relays. It's easy. Then make sure you have enough fluid in your car because you could have an air pocket which could cause your to run hot at idle only. You can usually tell that you have an air pocket if you can hear water swooshing behing your dash when you start the car up. Then try changing your thermostat. A stock one is fine. A cooler stat will not help you if you have other problems.

Yeah it prolly won't be your rad. cap, pretty much it will either be your thermostat or your rad. fan. The fan on your driver side is for your man fan, the fan on the pass side is your A/C fan so you don't have to really worry about your Pass side one. I had over heated problems with my eclipse and it was the thermostat whether it may be stuck open or closed. So please get back to the forum if you have any more problems.
Big Mike

Originally posted by bigmike95eclipse
The fan on your driver side is for your man fan,

Heh. Is that where the air in the nut chiller comes from? ;)

take out your thermostat and run the car. See if it still overheats. If it doesn't, then you found your problem.

Wow, thanks for all the help you guys, ill get back to everyone asap. Oh, are any of these thermostats okay:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=133&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Thermostat%20%2D%20OE%20Replacement

Good luck, hopefully it will be a cheaper fix for you then me. I did all of the above except the fan mod. A couple days after the radiator flush, mine cracked open while driving and ended up being replaced by an all metal one.

I believe you can also use a neon thermostat of similar years and they make cooler thermostats for the neons. I don't remember exactly, but the standard for our car is 190 or 195 and I believe you can get a 160 degree thermostat for a neon.

I probably wont be able to do this until next week due to a busy schedule, but I thought I give everyone here some points for the help. thanks again!

p.s. oh, and is it necessary to drain the coolant system (as said in the chilton)?

You might need to drain it a little bit if your changing the thermostat so you don't make too much of a mess. Make sure your doing this on a cold engine too. To drain it there should be a pitcock at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. You just turn that and it will start draining coolant from the bottom of that valve.

Welp, I installed a new thermostat (160 from Howell) and when I removed my old thermostat I found it in pieces, so I thought that would've been my overheating issue. After the installation however, I warmed up my car and noticed the same symptoms. My temp needle was 3/4 above again (between normal and HOT). So I guess it wasn't my thermostat then? I didnt drain the coolant like the Chilton said, but I did install it on a cold engine (car parked for a week). I checked both my fans and they are both in working condition. Any other suggestions? Thanks

Well one thing you could do is to verify that you are actually running hot. If you can, log coolant temp or get a cheap aftermarket sender and gauge.

Originally posted by bokchoi
Welp, I installed a new thermostat (160 from Howell) and when I removed my old thermostat I found it in pieces, so I thought that would've been my overheating issue. After the installation however, I warmed up my car and noticed the same symptoms. My temp needle was 3/4 above again (between normal and HOT). So I guess it wasn't my thermostat then? I didnt drain the coolant like the Chilton said, but I did install it on a cold engine (car parked for a week). I checked both my fans and they are both in working condition. Any other suggestions? Thanks

First off, Drain all the coolant and refill with new coolant. Go for a 50/50 water to coolant mix. Antifreeze keeps the coolabnt from boiling/freezing. More antifreeze will raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point. More water will make the coolant heat up faster. This is why you want a correct mix. You can buy a gauge for measuring themixture of your coolant at any parts store for less than 10.00 and it will tell you what temps you are good for.

Burb the system properly. Let the car run and heat up till the thermostat opens. Keep the system full of coolant till all the air burps out. Turn on your heater as well and make sure your getting hot air. Cool air meant air pocket in the Heater core. You wont hear and noises if you have air in the head/block. You can get a funnel that attaches to the water neck to make this easier but if your low on funds, its no necassary.

When the car gets warm, insert a thermometer in the water neck to measure the temp. You can get a thermometer for less than 10.00 also at most parts stores. This will give you an idea if the gauge is wrong and the sending unit has taken a shit.

If your burping the coolant and the coolant level keeps rising and lowering or you cant seem to get the air to stop comming out, then you may have a blown head gasket.

Next, take your car to the car wash and use the high pressure sprayer to spray the radiator fins out. You want to spray from the inside of the engine bay towards the front of the car. I know it is difficult with the fans but you have to do it to make sure the radiator is not clogged.

This should solve your issue.

Becareful with some of the info above, there is bad info posted. Running without a thermostat can cause you to never heat up in the winter and overheat in the summer because the coolant doesnt have a chance to cool down in the radiator. A broken thermostat will create enough resistance to keep you from overheating but you may have noticed a problem warming up if you live where the winters get really cold.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by bokchoi Welp, I installed a new thermostat (160 from Howell) and when I removed my old thermostat I found it in pieces, so I thought that would've been my overheating issue. After the installation however, I warmed up my car and noticed the same symptoms. My temp needle was 3/4 above again (between normal and HOT). So I guess it wasn't my thermostat then? I didnt drain the coolant like the Chilton said, but I did install it on a cold engine (car parked for a week). I checked both my fans and they are both in working condition. Any other suggestions? Thanks

First off, Drain all the coolant and refill with new coolant. Go for a 50/50 water to coolant mix. Antifreeze keeps the coolabnt from boiling/freezing. More antifreeze will raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point. More water will make the coolant heat up faster. This is why you want a correct mix. You can buy a gauge for measuring themixture of your coolant at any parts store for less than 10.00 and it will tell you what temps you are good for. Burb the system properly. Let the car run and heat up till the thermostat opens. Keep the system full of coolant till all the air burps out. Turn on your heater as well and make sure your getting hot air. Cool air meant air pocket in the Heater core. You wont hear and noises if you have air in the head/block. You can get a funnel that attaches to the water neck to make this easier but if your low on funds, its no necassary. When the car gets warm, insert a thermometer in the water neck to measure the temp. You can get a thermometer for less than 10.00 also at most parts stores. This will give you an idea if the gauge is wrong and the sending unit has taken a shit. If your burping the coolant and the coolant level keeps rising and lowering or you cant seem to get the air to stop comming out, then you may have a blown head gasket. Next, take your car to the car wash and use the high pressure sprayer to spray the radiator fins out. You want to spray from the inside of the engine bay towards the front of the car. I know it is difficult with the fans but you have to do it to make sure the radiator is not clogged. This should solve your issue. Becareful with some of the info above, there is bad info posted. Running without a thermostat can cause you to never heat up in the winter and overheat in the summer because the coolant doesnt have a chance to cool down in the radiator. A broken thermostat will create enough resistance to keep you from overheating but you may have noticed a problem warming up if you live where the winters get really cold. Terry

Man, thats a lot of good info! Thanks man! I've always been using the pre-mixed coolant but I guess Ill start using the anti-freeze stuff. I'll everyone updated after the process.

the 50/50 mix actually cost you more money... :)

Originally posted by 96rs-t
take out your thermostat and run the car. See if it still overheats. If it doesn't, then you found your problem.

do NOT do this, this will prove nothing and is very foolish advise.

Terry

Yeah, running no thermostat makes the tempature really unstable. Get a real gauge or a datalogger and watch what happens when you remove it...

It usually takes 3-4 days worth of adding coolant *to the radiator, not the overflow bottle!* with the car cold in the mornings, to get all the air out. Make sure you run your heater for a few minues before shutting the car off each night too.

Also, vaseline on the rubber gasket of the radiator cap, as well as very fine polishing of the radiator lip, will help you get a better seal.

I've been having an overheating issue similar to the author of this post, only my needle will bounce from 3/4 and normal whether being idle or driving under normal circumstances. The tamp changed inconsistantly at random times. Unfortunatly the weather's been pretty shitty up here so I have not been able to do much of anything to fix the problem, but thanks to a handful or replies in this thread, I'll probubly find a solution, given suggestions.

This post, is the reason why I love 2gnt. :love

Yeah, same exact issue like yours. My needle would bounce back to normal temp at certain times, but after a long drive it'll usually maintain the 3/4 or sometimes even hotter...thats when I just stop the car and let it cool down.

Interestingly enough, I do believe I need a new thermostat. Figures. I'd like a 180* one, but before I buy one I did some searching and found some threads from 2004 saying 160* thermostats were ideal for turboed n/t's. I didnt find anything on the 160* thereafter 2004 so beforeI go and look for one, I was curious if anyone had any input.

Then in addition, other than Howell Automotive and Concept Illusions, does anyone have a suggestion where to purchase a new thermostat? (I'd rather not purchase from either company since Howell WAY over charges for shipping, and Concept Illusions I cant get ahold of even after calling constantly for 2 days)

Get the 180. The 160 is too cold, and the rings won't seal well. Also, dril a 1/16" hole in the top of the thermostat. It will allow for less "cold shock" and a more stable transition when the thermostat finally does open up.


Brian

Hi, I thought I update everyone on this issue. So I bought the 160 degree thermostat at Howell and installed it. I didnt drain the coolant because I didnt think it was necessary (or was it?). Well, after the installation, I allowed it to warm up with the radiator cap and resovoir cap off (just the like the Chilton says) and everything looked okay; the needle was steady below the middle and I thought that solved my problem. However, after less than a month the same issue persist, but this time even worst. Instead of consistently keeping the needle between the middle and hot like last time, the needle now stays on the H (but not past the red bar). Its scary...it would fluctuate in the beginnning but after a longer drive it would stay around that area. I'm planning to drain all my coolant and replace another thermostat again...but I didnt expect those howell thermostats to be so sh*tty!...and yeah I payed about $35 shipped...what a rip...I'm just going to go with the 180 thermo and let you guys know how it goes.

P.S. I thought it was just too much air in the system but I have tried several times to relieve the pressure but the problem still continues

Originally posted by bokchoi
but I didnt expect those howell thermostats to be so sh*tty!...and yeah I payed about $35 shipped...what a rip...I'm just going to go with the 180 thermo and let you guys know how it goes.

Where the heck do you buy a $35 thermostat? Is it made of solid gold or something? if you still haven't solved your overheating issue by this point, i'd say its worth a try to get your radiator rodded out.

no, just that people dont know how to look for a lower deg thermostat on their own..so you pay.

Originally posted by Chamuko
no, just that people dont know how to look for a lower deg thermostat on their own..so you pay.

Actually I've tried looking for it at every local auto store but none of them carried the 160 thermostat. The one from howell was just expensive because of the shipping+tax added to it.

Sorry to revive this thread but I'm pretty much close to fixing this problem. After changing the thermostat, sensors, and burping the system everything seemed fine; I was running slightly below the normal temp (on the gauge) for about three days after the meter started to fluctuate and eventually get hotter. I burped the system again because I thought there was still some air in there and added some more coolant but eventually came back to the same issue until I notice coolant leaking under my car. I havnt checked under the car yet because of my hectic schedule but I was hoping anyone could give me an idea what could be leaking from the bottom. Could it be the water pump dying on me? I will work on this over the weekend, but until then any help would be great, thanks!

leaking...

front left/center - radiator
front right - drain cock, upper/lower hose

under the timing belt - water pump

behind the engine, the bane of your existence, heater hoses. They go bad and pop on you if not changed out. If it's heater hoses cracking and losing coolant, you can replace them with regular automotive hose from Autozone. No need to get any special, pre-formed shit. Clamp it on the pipe, loop the slack, clamp the other end. Done.

The benefit to looping a bit of slack is that, should these new hoses fail in the future on the road somewhere, you can either cut the split off and reattach the hose properly, or you have enough slack to bypass the heater core and save the engine.

Good luck to you.

very helpful info...thnks, pts for you (not that you need anymore :) )