hi everyone ijust picked up a head at a local scrap yard pretty cheap iwas just wondering if anyone has any good ideas of what i should do,port,polish,mill,shave?really don't know to much about all that stuff .any feedback would be appreciated. oh yeah what type of gaines does anyone think i should expect

Dont really expect any gains from porting. Actually, if youre staying N/A, probably expect power losses and a crappy idle. Unless youre going big boost, leave the head stock. Thats my advice. It flows much to well stock, opening the ports further will only cause a loss in velocity which leads to bogginess and power loss. Shaving/milling it will increase compression, which will increase the horsepower potential.

I haven't looked at the head off the car, but I'd agree that more often than not, the ports are the right size, porting will only mess up a good thing.

And Saberkahn is 100% correct, the key to power is air velocity, velocity, velocity! The faster the air goes in the more power you make.

There are 2 other key things that must be done to an engine for the porting to benefit. First, You MUST have camshafts that will benefit from the head porting. If the head is really ported out a lot but the cams aren't opening the valves long enough to benefit than you are going to lose power. Second, You MUST have a compression ratio that is going to benefit from the extra air. If you leave the compression at the stock compression then you are going to see some power but no where near as much power as you will have with a high compression along with the cams and porting.





current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Now I really regret porting and milling my head. Crappy idle and bogginess is exactly what I have. It never will take off smooth from a stop no matter how I try to ease the gas. It bogs and is really jerky below 2k rpm. Like if I hit the gas a steady amount, rpms will jump up, then drop down. It won't just take off smoothly.

Fast420A put it well on what you need to do. What I plan to do with mine. (getting currage up to port and polish mine myself) Is port match to the gasket so it matches my intake and header, and not open the path too much, just smooth out the casting. I already have the manifold ported and if I don't match the head to the gasket I can't get the most out of the head. So I'll try to leave the bottle neck in the head path so I keep the velocity up on the air coming in and going out. Lucky my friend has a head off of some car we hon't even have, so I can practice... see if I'm any good at porting and polishing. Porting for Turbo and Porting for NA are different. Which eclipse804 is why I don't think you like your job. RRE does everything expecting a turbo IMO anyway. So I think they over ported your car. But with some cams or possibly some cam gears tuned, you would be happier with your head.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Ya I got the mildest port possible, but Mike did some extra because he said our heads are so small. But Adel also did a major port and lost a lot of power even with his cams. One thing I noticed is that if I adjust the exhaust cam gear, it does give a lot more power in the high end (feels almost like it has cams according to Mike), but then idle really sucks so it's a tradeoff. But even though it feels faster, at the track, I ran pretty much the same times no matter how I tuned the exhaust cam gear (still need to fix my intake gear so it's not adjustable right now).

What compression was Adel running with his ported, camed, and built head? I think his head was milled but I don't remember what comp ratio he had. 804, you should either bump the compression up more and throw some cams in it or since you are auto, throw on a turbo kit be really happy due to the better flow you will have with the P&P head.


current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I think Adel was running higher compression than me, but not too high. I have 10.6:1 compression which is too high to turbo. And I wouldn't go higher - if I were to take off the head again, I'd probably swap for a stock head since my auto tranny freaks out with bad idle. If I had a manual tranny, it'd be a totally different story. Hopefully tuning both my cam gears will help out...

>Hopefully tuning both my
>cam gears will help out...

Yeah that may fix a lot of problems right there.



current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

It sounds like Mike at RRE had the best of intentions by porting out your head extra because the ports are so "small," but it also sounds like he was trying to transfer his experience with turbos over to the non turbos, which you can't do.

The big head port is fine if you're pushing 20 lbs off boost, but the rules change once you put that turbo on (as we all know) and you can't just do the same thing and think along the same lines when comparing mods for one versus the other. For non turbos, you have to be more precice in what you do once you start working on the engine. Small changes can have a large negative effect if they aren't done correctly.

Since both you and Adel lost driveability with the head port and lost power, that leads me to believe our ports are just fine. At the most, I'd do a polish on them, maybe extrude honing at the most.

Yeah pretty much what I'm thinking Todd, I just want to smooth the transition from the ported/polished manifold to head ports. Hopefully I'll be able to do that myself...

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

If I could just find a valvespring compressor that can fit in the damn head I will be digging in to my spare head for a little porting fun.




current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I think the dealer or Snap on would be the only place to get one... I need to, and I fear the price.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads