I've gone through the search but nothing i found had a solid answer ...i guess there just might not be one



I bought a 1998 mitsubishi eclipse RS with one bent valve in the head ...swapped heads finished doing the timing belt and everything yesterday... test driving it after i topped out fluids and my little oil light flickers at random when im passed 4K RPM ???? i checked oil again and its full ... no noticeable leaks anywhere any ideas ....

Another question when im pulling into my driveway or coming to a stop at a light or something and i am in neutral its up at 2K RPM until i come to a complete stop.. it also bounces between 800-1000 rpm when in idle .... Think i have an idle control valve problem ??? oo i havent put on an intake yet since im just testing the car not actually driving outside of my community. you htink once i put the intake on it should stabilize ? i had a buddy with a civic whose idle air control valve was shot but it bounced violently between like 600 -2500 rpm rapidly... i dont know guys ... any help would be appreciated

It could be the IAC, but before you go spending $150+ on a new one, double check that all your vacuum lines look to be intact and are connected securely.

(Also, in the future it might help to mention what you suspect is the problem in your thread title. When you searched, did you look at all the threads titled, "Help?" Probably not. We're all here to help each other out, but someone who might have had this exact same problem might not even open this thread because he's not interested in the title.)

Dig? :wary

ok thanks a lot man

ok well i messed with the wire going to the sensor to see if that was the problem maybe the connection was loose .... so i turned the car back on and the light hadnt come on yet ... i took the car for a 5 min test drive and the light came on on my way home when i pull into my community i start to hear a knocking sound which increased with my rpms so i let off until i was about 6 houses away from mine when i hear a squeaking sound that matched the rythm of the knocking sound ... and then a loud knock from the block and the car shut off ... i then turned it back on and finished the last 5 house drive to my house with it still making the tapping sound from the block ????



Is this a SPUN BEARING ???

can a mod please change the thread name to

"IS THIS A SPUN BEARING ????? "

Originally posted by killaqueenzpapi
ok well i messed with the wire going to the sensor to see if that was the problem maybe the connection was loose .... so i turned the car back on and the light hadnt come on yet ... i took the car for a 5 min test drive and the light came on on my way home when i pull into my community i start to hear a knocking sound which increased with my rpms so i let off until i was about 6 houses away from mine when i hear a squeaking sound that matched the rythm of the knocking sound ... and then a loud knock from the block and the car shut off ... i then turned it back on and finished the last 5 house drive to my house with it still making the tapping sound from the block ???? Is this a SPUN BEARING ??? can a mod please change the thread name to "IS THIS A SPUN BEARING ????? "

You can change the thread name.

To answer your question, yes, it does sound like a spun bearing. The motor shouldnt have shut down though. Pull your oil pan off and check your rods, I bet one is fucked.

MEH :(
i have to do that today ... how much of a bitch is it to check with the motor in the car ???

Thanks bro

Originally posted by killaqueenzpapi
MEH :( i have to do that today ... how much of a bitch is it to check with the motor in the car ??? Thanks bro

Not bad. Just pull the oil pan down, check for shavings in the bottom of your pan and in the oil pick up tube. Then check the play in the rod caps, you will know if you spun one. You could have fucked up a main bearing too, but i doubt it.

i think i read somewhere that i have to remove the i beam
and some brackets ??? .... well i think what caused the spun bearing was a shot oil pump ... i have another one that i took off of another car is there any way to test it to make sure its working while its out of the car before i switch that out too ?


thanks a lot ... o i dont want to buy new parts (oil pump) for this motor because in the near future i will be rebuilding i already have everything just waint on some cash to take it to a machine shop

thanks again man

Originally posted by killaqueenzpapi
i think i read somewhere that i have to remove the i beam and some brackets ??? .... well i think what caused the spun bearing was a shot oil pump ... i have another one that i took off of another car is there any way to test it to make sure its working while its out of the car before i switch that out too ? thanks a lot ... o i dont want to buy new parts (oil pump) for this motor because in the near future i will be rebuilding i already have everything just waint on some cash to take it to a machine shop thanks again man

if your rebuilding, now is a good time. Just wait to fix it. Dont go cheap either, it usually just fucks up more stuff that way. No you cannot test the pump outside of the car to my knowledge. Yeah you need to remove the I beam, but theres only 4 bolts holding it in place to the motor mount. If you have swivel sockets, you can get the pan off without removing the beam, Thats what I do.

ill probably just take the beam off .... well ya when i rebuild i will get new oil pump and water pump and all that stuff but for now i really didnt want to buy one and use it then have a used one with a fresh engine .... i wanted everything new when i rebuilt it.. so ima put this one i have extra here until i rebuild

Originally posted by killaqueenzpapi
ill probably just take the beam off .... well ya when i rebuild i will get new oil pump and water pump and all that stuff but for now i really didnt want to buy one and use it then have a used one with a fresh engine .... i wanted everything new when i rebuilt it.. so ima put this one i have extra here until i rebuild

putting an oil pump on the car is not going to fix your spun bearing unless it didnt do any damage, which i doubt. I bet it scored the crank probably or even the rod journal. This means you need to replace the rod probably and possibly have the crankshaft machined. If you need to replace the rod, you gotta pull it out anyway, so off comes the head. You might as well rebuild the sucker now and get it over with bro.

ok ... i pulled the oil pan out today and i wasnt able to get to checkin which bearing it was ... because the mosquitoes started attacking and it got dark... is there any way to tell which bearing is the messed up one or will i just have to pull off each rod cap to check ... i see a lot of metal shavings in my oil pan :( doesnt look good ... also if i had coolant mixed with my oil how would i be abke to tell when i pulled the oil drain plug before i had it out all the way and like only drops were coming out i saw the first 4 or 5 drops came out green like coolant but then looked like oil after those drops ... in my oil pan it looks a little orangeish but i dont know if that because of the shavings... let me know if you guys know whats up

Sounds like a possible blown hg too. You might as well just do like mike says and rebuild it now

Originally posted by killaqueenzpapi
ok ... i pulled the oil pan out today and i wasnt able to get to checkin which bearing it was ... because the mosquitoes started attacking and it got dark... is there any way to tell which bearing is the messed up one or will i just have to pull off each rod cap to check ... i see a lot of metal shavings in my oil pan :( doesnt look good ... also if i had coolant mixed with my oil how would i be abke to tell when i pulled the oil drain plug before i had it out all the way and like only drops were coming out i saw the first 4 or 5 drops came out green like coolant but then looked like oil after those drops ... in my oil pan it looks a little orangeish but i dont know if that because of the shavings... let me know if you guys know whats up

The metal shavings are pretty key.. this just happened to me.

I found the cylinder the shavings were most around and puled the rod cap. OMG that bearing was f*cked! found why my motor locked :(

Nick
97RS