Good to see you getting pumped up about it. Didn't see it mentioned in the thread, though, so I'll just say a couple things that might be common sense...

- Be sure you've got fresh trans fluid from the dealer before you get started. You're going to want to drain that trans before you pop the axles. That's messy if you didn't drain the trans.

- I'm pretty sure you can leave the axles in the hubs and just unbolt some of the suspension parts to yank the CVs out of the diff. This can save you the headaches of dealing with those rusty main nuts.

- As mentioned, when you install the new RMS, DO NOT lube the area prior to installation. Keep it clean as can be. Then take special care when actually installing the new seal. As mentioned, take your time and work your way around the thing, tapping it lightly with a mallet. You don't want to tweak or damage it in any way or you'll do all this work for nothing.

- Finally, with regards to the new RMS, when properly installed, it's flat, but just a hair above flush with the block surface. DO NOT tap it in flush or deeper. Give it *just* a RCH above flush.

You *might* be able to fill it up and test idle the engine to see if it leaks, but you've only got one motor mount supporting the engine at this point unless you re-install the crossmember and front mount. I don't know if even that's a good idea, but it's food for thought.

Let us know how it all turns out.