Hey everyone,

Well its that time of the year again where I must get my car inspected, Ive been driving with it expired for a week or two, and I finally got pulled over for it. The only reason I have not got it inspected yet is because of a check engine that just poped up not to long ago, heres what the Autozone paper reads:

TROUBLESHOOTING P1294
OEM Brand: MITSUBISHI


Definition
Idle Air Control Motor Circuit
Probable Causes
1.-Open or short circuit condition
2.-Poor electrical connection
3.-Failed IAC Valve


I need to get this taken care of by monday so I dont have to pay the citation for the inspection sticker. Anyone have any ideas on what i should start checking for first? Any pictures or write ups? The car has a CAI on it if that helps.

Thanks,
-Cody

usually when I see this code, it is due to things that affect the IAC, but not the IAC itself. Check that the harness isn't damaged (laying on the EGR pipe, for example) and that it's not caused by something external (vacuum leaks causing idle issues). if that fails, reset the ECU and driving it. if the code comes back, try a known-good IAC.

Originally posted by DarkOne
usually when I see this code, it is due to things that affect the IAC, but not the IAC itself. Check that the harness isn't damaged (laying on the EGR pipe, for example) and that it's not caused by something external (vacuum leaks causing idle issues). if that fails, reset the ECU and driving it. if the code comes back, try a known-good IAC.

Are there any pictures or diagrams to show the IAC and all the componets around it?

Not that I have handy.

The IAC sits on the throttle body no real other componets too it. It's on the back of the TB IIRC there are only 2 sensor type hook ups bact there the IAC and the TPS. The TPS sits higher on the back side and I think the IAC is just below. The animal you are looking for has a round body. I hope that helps with the location. After you check the connections if the light comes back after the reset you can also try cleaning the IAC, although if it was dirty you would prolly be seeing bad performance as well as a code. You can search here for the proper cleaning method.

Why not just remove the check engine light bulb from the back of the cluster and get it inspected :shrug

Originally posted by Nightfall
Why not just remove the check engine light bulb from the back of the cluster and get it inspected :shrug

Because in most states its not a fail because of the light being on its a fail because they hookup to the ECU and read the codes..

Originally posted by mcgyvr

Originally posted by Nightfall Why not just remove the check engine light bulb from the back of the cluster and get it inspected :shrug

Because in most states its not a fail because of the light being on its a fail because they hookup to the ECU and read the codes..

He is correct, I even went so far as to reset the ECU yesterday befor my inspection and the ECU did not have all the numbers on my car and ended up failing because 4 of the sensors could not complete the test. I had a fun 50-60 mile drive allowing my computer to re-calibrate everything. They also have a new fun law in Texas where you still have to pay the 50 bucks if you fail, luckly the guy who attempted to pass mine was cool about it and just told me to drive around a little bit and come back, but still the thought is just scary.

Thanks for your help guys.
-Cody

Originally posted by Shadow2877
Are there any pictures or diagrams to show the IAC and all the componets around it?

Originally posted by slowmitsu

Originally posted by Shadow2877 Are there any pictures or diagrams to show the IAC and all the componets around it?

Thank you ^^ I picked one up today because I could not track anything else causing the problem, I will install it tonight and let you all know how it went.

i am having the same issue , i replaced all vac lines , the map sensor, the ml, the iac ! now what i cant figure it out! and i have excellent fuel pressure!