After saying I was going to do it and tearing my engine out a year ago, I finally talked with brad at Hahn and will be installing a stage V on my 98 RS. Just wanted to let everyone who wants to look at a few pics of my tear down. I'm thinking after recieving the parts it'll be summer before shes running but I couldn't wait to post anymore! I'll keep sending pics of the install if people are interested. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions in the process anyway. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks for all the help over the years Guys! This site has always saved my ass!




















BTW I've got a new DS fendor to replace the dented one in the pic. Needless to say I can't really take it to a body shop yet.

Nice, Good Luck with that , I'll sure be back here to watch the progress

Originally posted by C L U T C H
Nice, Good Luck with that , I'll sure be back here to watch the progress

Me too. Have fun w/ the rebuild. I am in the same boat right now with rebuilding again :)

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by C L U T C H Nice, Good Luck with that , I'll sure be back here to watch the progress

Me too. Have fun w/ the rebuild. I am in the same boat right now with rebuilding again :)

Hey thanks guys. Good luck with yours too! Its nice to know theres people out there who are as into their 2gnt's as I am. I think I have one of the only ones up here in Montana. Anyway my current list is pretty standard and includes:

-JE 8.8 pistons
-Eagle Rods
-ARP Headstuds
-Titanium valve springs & retainers
-Hahn Stage II turbo kit w/ BOV upgrade
-20g Upgrade
-FMIC of course
-Hahn portfueler
-Thermal exhaust w/ 3" downpipe, test pipe, etc.
-Greddy Profec B type s.(The Hahn Specail)w/ remote control
-MSD Dis 2 ignition
-Stage 4 clutch
-Quaife LSD

I'm know I'm missing something but It'll come to me at the last minute I'm sure. My car currently has KYB AGX adjustables, eibach springs, 18" wheels w/ BFG comp T/A KDW's, AF/X underdrive pulley, so I don't think suspension will be an issue anymore but who knows. I'm hoping to push around 350 horsepower. Any further suggestions would be great!

Just a quick update and question if anybody is listening. I got my turbo kit UPS last week and ordered my pistons and engine components. I ordered crane 14 cams and should get them in a few weeks as Crane has to custom build them I guess. Do I need to make any modifications to the head or can I just replace the springs/ retainers (which I'm planning on anyway). Thanks guys. BTW hoping to have everything done sometime in June.

if your going that far i would upgrade the lifters and rockers too.
then the porting and valve work are all gonna be based on the final HP goals and expected powerband you will be in mostly. (ie Drag, street, x-cross)

if you arent happy with the journals in the head for the cams, some machine shops can bore them out then press in new journal bearings, again depends on how perfect ya need em :P

Keep this thread updated. I know I, and probably others, like to see projects as they are worked on and completed. Looks like you got a fucking great place to work on it too. Keep it up :thumbsup

Originally posted by cc8balla
Keep this thread updated. I know I, and probably others, like to see projects as they are worked on and completed. Looks like you got a fucking great place to work on it too. Keep it up :thumbsup

Don't forget pictures :),

Want to see progress. components pictures everything. make this the bible :p

I've heard the crane 14's aren't that great and people don't notice much of a difference from stock...right Mike!

Crower 2's FTW!

Originally posted by Aggression
I've heard the crane 14's aren't that great and people don't notice much of a difference from stock...right Mike! Crower 2's FTW!

Bummer! They're already ordered my friend. I guess at least they'll look good in my list of mods right! ha. Anyway, I'll post some more pics of the new parts within the next week or so as I begin installing the fuel system. I'm also looking to get the turbo housing chrome plated. I'm not sure if that is a good idea or not but I'm looking into it(along with the hahn manifold and the intercooler piping). Will try to keep this thread updated over the next month or so.

From what I have read you need a larger intake manifold to take advantage of the #14 lobe design.

I also just posted a "Good Guys" post about Wheel Concepts for chrome plating. If you are looking to get some parts done I would highly suggest them.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=35&topic_id=1174&mesg_id=1174&page=

Thanks. I'll check them out as soon as I get a chance. Anyway I figured I'd post a few pics of the car prior to the facelift. Sorry I haven't posted any of the other pics. I will as soon as I get around to actually working on the car.

ugh, another stock to stage V thread. im tired. ill trade you a stage 5 car for your stock car. all the works done for you. its even pre-broken.

+1 for grain lolz


Anywho...crane 14's + turbo = boo, crower 2 turbo grinds ftw

Originally posted by grain
ugh, another stock to stage V thread. im tired. ill trade you a stage 5 car for your stock car. all the works done for you. its even pre-broken.

Nah, thats alright. Blue is for sissy's anyway.

Here are a few pics of what I accomplished today(not much) and a few more of the goodies that have come in so far. I also replaced the fuel pump with the Walbro. I just drilled a new hole in the L-bracket because it was a little longish instead of cutting the brass tube. Sorry no pics of that. I'll put up more pics as I get in more parts like the clutch,exhaust,LSD and when the engine gets rebuilt hopefully in the next week or so. I'm also working on an excel spreadsheet covering all the components part#'s and prices I'm using for the Hahn Stage V project. If anybody would like to see that just let me know. I know when your planning for something like this every little bit helps.



table full of goodies.




Greddy Boost controller. Its a lot smaller than I thought. I put it next to an injector to give it some scale.


Hahn Portfueler mounting hardware.


The infamous crane 14 cam. (I figured I'd save some money and just install one)


The 20G




New fuel line installed.


Removed the oem fpr and installed the provided Hahn hardware(brass). This is pretty minor stuff still but its a ton easier to follow than I thought it would be.


hahn manifold. I guess they started cutting the mounting flange to prevent warping.


Interior pic.


After mounting the intercooler


Thats it for now. If theres anything else(car related)anybody would like to see just let me know and I'll through it up here!

Wow, looks awesome so far. I wish I could get all the parts like you have and set them on a table and take a pic haha. Can't wait to see more install pics and finished product!

Now would be a good time to work on a fitting for your fuel return if you are going to use A&N fittings on your stock fuel return assuming that the new fuel line you installed is your main. I would also start to look at where you want to drill your main hole in the firewall for wires. I drilled mine out in the center so that I can access it by removing the center kick panel.

Originally posted by msl-man

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by C L U T C H Nice, Good Luck with that , I'll sure be back here to watch the progress

Me too. Have fun w/ the rebuild. I am in the same boat right now with rebuilding again :)

Hey thanks guys. Good luck with yours too! Its nice to know theres people out there who are as into their 2gnt's as I am. I think I have one of the only ones up here in Montana. Anyway my current list is pretty standard and includes: -JE 8.8 pistons -Eagle Rods -ARP Headstuds -Titanium valve springs & retainers -Hahn Stage II turbo kit w/ BOV upgrade -20g Upgrade -FMIC of course -Hahn portfueler -Thermal exhaust w/ 3" downpipe, test pipe, etc. -Greddy Profec B type s.(The Hahn Specail)w/ remote control -MSD Dis 2 ignition -Stage 4 clutch -Quaife LSD I'm know I'm missing something but It'll come to me at the last minute I'm sure. My car currently has KYB AGX adjustables, eibach springs, 18" wheels w/ BFG comp T/A KDW's, AF/X underdrive pulley, so I don't think suspension will be an issue anymore but who knows. I'm hoping to push around 350 horsepower. Any further suggestions would be great!

Sweet, I think you would be pushing more than 350 lill over 400 maybe.

Thats the same setup I'm gonna get, how much that run you. But, I'm gonna wait though, take it slow I have the patience I'll wait till my stocker goes than do the rebuild. I believe does sell 21g turbo, its dual ball bearing turbo. Better spooling overall..

I've spend sometime reading Hahn's site... His pictures prove it and I've seen his car on speed channel Nopi tunervision once.

You have very nice/ clean eclipse. its a MtX

Howell Automotive is horrible to deal with. I highly recommend avoiding them at all costs. I've had bad dealings with them before but I decided to throw a little business their way and ordered my lifters and rockers from them. I ordered them on the 9th and still haven't seen or heard anything from them. (Today's the 20th) I just talked to some hillbilly redneck SOB and he has no idea where they are. He pretty much told me that they'll get there when they get there. I have ordered parts from maperformance, summit, jegs, etc. and always recieved my parts within a few days without every paying extra for shipping.

Just thought I'd vent my frustrations with that joke of a company. Maybe its just me but I should not have to pay for incompetence.

Originally posted by msl-man
Howell Automotive is horrible to deal with. I highly recommend avoiding them at all costs. I've had bad dealings with them before but I decided to throw a little business their way and ordered my lifters and rockers from them. I ordered them on the 9th and still haven't seen or heard anything from them. (Today's the 20th) I just talked to some hillbilly redneck SOB and he has no idea where they are. He pretty much told me that they'll get there when they get there. I have ordered parts from maperformance, summit, jegs, etc. and always recieved my parts within a few days without every paying extra for shipping. Just thought I'd vent my frustrations with that joke of a company. Maybe its just me but I should not have to pay for incompetence.

You're not the first to feel this way, believe me. Several others have had the same issues. Hell, last summer I had to wait 3 months on a coilpack I ordered. I believe the reason behind it was they wait till they get so many orders filled for that specific item, then send it to their vendor and then ship them all out when they come in.

EDIT:
To avoid drama...

If they told you the parts were in stock and they weren't, dispute the charges with your bank. Plain and simple.

This community has been burned enough by vendors who promise service and consistenly fail to deliver.

Yeah you're right. I was going to try to keep this thread dedicated to my project but I guess I got a little worked up. Anyway, I'm waiting on the engine to be rebuilt still. Its going to be awhile considering I don't even have the parts I need for my head yet(lifters and rockers, hehe) I'll have it updated as soon as I have something other than a bitch to post. Sorry guys, I'll stay on topic better in the future.

BTW driggs, I don't get the edit to avoid drama thing? Is that because I have a big mouth?

I think driggs was editing what he said to avoid drama towards him...and then giving you advice on what to do about the situation without causing problems for yourself....basically watching both your backs kinda

Hey what part number of measurements is that brass plug? I like how you keep the factory line in the FPR block ad remove the FPR, than the old instruction of double clamping a fuel line to the hard line.

Everything looks good.

Originally posted by msl-man
Anyway, I'm waiting on the engine to be rebuilt still.

I guess this means that you're not rebuilding yourself? If so, I would make sure that whomever is doing the work uses anerobic sealant on the bedplate to block mating surface. Also, you may wanna spring for ARP Main Studs. They are relatively inexpensive.(I just like the way a stud/washer/nut clamps rather than a bolt :thumbsup) I rebuilt my bottom end myself, but had my machinist do the head. When I got it back, he used some brownish sealant(???) on the end cam caps where anerobic sealant was supposed to be used. I removed them, cleaned them up and sealed them myself just for peace of mind. You could also read-up on Corbin's rebuild(http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=93184&mode=full) just to gain information on what's being done to the engine during the rebuild, so that you can double check on the work that is done for you. The more headaches now, hopefully the less you will have later. :-)

i need a up date, i want to see MORE!!!! I CANT WAIT

Looks nice, pictures are always good.

Now on to the important question.....I can see the harley rim in the picture, Is it a dyna or a FXR and what year?


Terry

Its actually a FX 1200C. A sportster 1200 Custom. Mine is the Dyna Low Rider FXDLI and I love it but I don't think it was in the garage at the time of the pics. Its an '06 and its my other baby.

As for the updates on the eclipse I haven't forgot about you guys. I'm waiting on Cam gears from Fidanza and stainless exhaust valves which are both on back order for like another 3 years(okay 3 weeks but still...)! As soon as I have something to report I'll give you guys the word. I'm sorry its taking so long. I guess I pretty much figured it would. Thanks for the interest though and keep checking back.

On a side note I was going to make a list of all the components I removed from the car for this rebuild and put them in the For Sale forum. The car was in great condition before the teardown so I figured why not. Anyway whatever money was made from the sale of those parts would be given to 2gnt. Let me know what you guys think and I'll try to get that list made and move it into the other forum.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Looks nice, pictures are always good. Now on to the important question.....I can see the harley rim in the picture, Is it a dyna or a FXR and what year? Terry

I was goin to say the samething but I knew it by the pipes my step dad has a 06 Fatboy.

You should've read up in the Marketplace area Good/bad people to deal
with. Howwel was the 1st place you went too, right. Bad, idea read up in that area, ask people here, ask Summitracing also, do searches on the web and read mag. articles.

Sorry, hear about this and you should talk with your bank..

I actually ordered from a lot of different places. I should tell you guys that I did recieve my shipment from Howell. My lifters were rolling around in the box it was shipped in but I did recieve them finally about two weeks after my bitchy post above. My best experience was with Summit and modern performance.com. Brad at Hahn was great too. Like I said, a few components are backordered but that was pretty much wherever I went.

do you have a list of how much it runs for all the parts, and whats wrong with the crane cam's and what would you have gone with other then crane?

I have an excel spreadsheet that pretty much covers everything I've order, how much, where and when if you want a copy just send me a message with your email and I'll attach it and send it to you.

UPDATE:
Recieved Fidanza cam gears. Gorgeous looking until I opened up the second one and it had a huge gash down the face in the red finish. Summit took it back and is suppose to be sending me a new one. Also cancelled order from Modern Performance for the stainless valves and put in a order from Modern Automotive Performance for some IT stainless valves for $190.00 for the set mid last week. Haven't seen them yet.

I'll post a pic of the cam gears in the next day or so. Really good looking I thought.

I'm thinking three weekends to get the new motor in (Once its built) and to install the turbo kit before its up and running. I'm about a month behind schedule with all the parts hassles I've been having.

hey random, how do you like those tires?

When will be the next update

Howabout tomorrow? I sent the stage 4 clutch from Hahn to my engine guys and they just finished porting and polishing the head. He also mentioned something about port matching but he didn't elaborate and I didn't have time to ask. Everything was balanced last week so they should have started rebuilding it already. I will give him a call tomorrow and find out where we stand. I expect the engine to be fully built by the end of the week.

Sorry to those of you who are following this thread. This has been one incredibly long process. Please check back in the next couple of days because things should get a little more interesting during the actual installation process. Engine pics will surely be posted when I get it back from the shop.

BTW - I picked up my next project car for when the eclipse is done. Its a '69 Mustang fastback w/ a 351W...(For those of you who also like the V8 side of things)

Originally posted by msl-man
He also mentioned something about port matching but he didn't elaborate and I didn't have time to ask.

When you get your head ported they make the inlets bigger. Port matching is simply doing the same to the intake and/or exhaust manifold to match the inlets on the head. I hope that made sense. Good luck with the current project, looks sharp.

Originally posted by msl-man
Its a '69 Mustang fastback w/ a 351W...(For those of you who also like the V8 side of things)

Very nice! If you decide to go with a different motor, and the Windsor becomes available, please let me know. BTW You should post a few pics of her in the Pits.

Good luck w/ the turbo project.

UPDATE:

The word is that the engine guys are having some issues getting the flywheel to bolt up. Since it is a clutchmaster clutch they are hashing that out with them. They think they have it figured out and clutchmaster was really helpful I guess. I talked to them around 9:30MST and they said they should have the engine back together in a few hours considering how balancing goes. Basically it was a short block rebuild w/ the head redone and installed. I will install the pan, pump, and set up cam timing and all of that which isn't that big of a deal.

I'm hoping to pick it up sometime this week if I can get away. I'm not sure how long I'll need to put everything back together. Maybe a couple of weekends considering all the pics I'll have to take. What do you guys think for a timeline to get the car running again? Let me know.

BTW- For those of you who asked for the spreadsheet of parts I'll get that to you within the next day or so. Thanks a lot for your interest. THE FUN PARTS ON THE WAY! MANY PICS TO COME!!!

Originally posted by msl-man
Since it is a clutchmaster clutch

:thumbsdown

I picked up the engine! I have no idea what problems they ran into with the flexplate and the clutch. Thats a little outside of my area of expertise and I do not claim to know much about it. Anyway it is good to go and the long block is rebuilt and ready for installation. I won't be able to start for a few days though. The block is wrapped up so pictures will have to wait but at least I'm back on track.

um, didt they try rtating the clutch aginst the fly wheel, those bolt holes are not equidistant from each other..theres only 1 way to line it up... GL on the rest lookin good

when will be the next up date

Well here we go. I recieved the new MSD DIS 2, Innovate Motorsports LC-1 w/ digital DB A/F gauge, MSD ignition coil, and my 3" Thermal exhaust is on its way. I have to have a downpipe custom fabricated since Hahn doesn't offer their eliminator downpipe anymore. That is the last parts order I needed for this project in terms of the engine. Before I finally start putting it together this weekend (I've been in California and the car's in Montana) I have a couple of questions for you tranny guys. I have a lowered Eibach suspension w/ KYB gas adjustables and 18's with BFG racing tires so suspension and traction shouldn't be an issue. However, I need this car finished in the next couple of weeks and I can't decide on what to do with the tranny. My options are these:

Put in the orignal trans w/ no upgrades. Quickest fix but w/ no LSD I will have one wheel spinouts all the way through 4th gear. With this option I would buy a Shep Tranny probably next summer but I would have to wait to harness all the power.

Buy Phantom Grip for original trans. Don't know much about this guy other than its cheap. Will it last long enough at my expected HP levels for me to replace it with the shep next summer?

Buy a Quaife for original trans. $1200 but w/out a rebuilt tranny. How long will it last. 84k original on it. Searching these on 2gnt they don't seem very hard to install. THE BIG QUESTION IS "Am I just installing a $1200 part in a turd of an old tranny or what?" The tranny has been sitting for over a year and a half.

Sorry this is so long, I'm excited to finally wrap this up but I have one last issue to resolve. Any input would be great.

Originally posted by msl-man
Well here we go. I recieved the new MSD DIS 2, Innovate Motorsports LC-1 w/ digital DB A/F gauge, MSD ignition coil, and my 3" Thermal exhaust is on its way. I have to have a downpipe custom fabricated since Hahn doesn't offer their eliminator downpipe anymore. That is the last parts order I needed for this project in terms of the engine. Before I finally start putting it together this weekend (I've been in California and the car's in Montana) I have a couple of questions for you tranny guys. I have a lowered Eibach suspension w/ KYB gas adjustables and 18's with BFG racing tires so suspension and traction shouldn't be an issue. However, I need this car finished in the next couple of weeks and I can't decide on what to do with the tranny. My options are these: Put in the orignal trans w/ no upgrades. Quickest fix but w/ no LSD I will have one wheel spinouts all the way through 4th gear. With this option I would buy a Shep Tranny probably next summer but I would have to wait to harness all the power. Buy Phantom Grip for original trans. Don't know much about this guy other than its cheap. Will it last long enough at my expected HP levels for me to replace it with the shep next summer? Buy a Quaife for original trans. $1200 but w/out a rebuilt tranny. How long will it last. 84k original on it. Searching these on 2gnt they don't seem very hard to install. THE BIG QUESTION IS "Am I just installing a $1200 part in a turd of an old tranny or what?" The tranny has been sitting for over a year and a half. Sorry this is so long, I'm excited to finally wrap this up but I have one last issue to resolve. Any input would be great.

Our trannys have been known to handle some decent power without upgrades. I would suggest getting a good clutch with a Quaife LSD as that is the only good option I have heard about for our cars. And as far as I know, Shep does not do 420a trannys.

I've heard people prefer the Quaife over the PG.

Wow, don't I feel like the jackass. I just assumed he did. That saves me some decision making then. I guess I should have looked into it a little bit more. I suppose I'll have to order the quaife. I have a stage 4 clutch so that base is covered. At $800 some dollars it had better be worth it.

Is there a write-up on installing a quaife anywhere? I can't seem to come across one.

Just a couple of notes, I had to order a melling 190 oil pump using the engine code A588. Everybody I talked to seemed to think the M198 would fit the 4G and the 420a. I'm no expert but I didn't seem right that the same pump would fit both a chrysler and a mitsubishi engine.

In regards to putting everything back together on the engine I'm just going to use an air compressor to clean out all the components (intake manifold, throttle body, etc.) that have been sitting around for the past year. I hope that should be enough. As for the rebuilt engine there is a little bit of assembly lube on the cam lobes. Will that be enough for the initial startup or should I add a little bit more? Keep in mind this engine has been sitting in the garage w/ no valve cover on for a little more than a month and a half. It is wrapped in plastic though.

BTW - I promise pictures this weekend as I tin the engine. Sorry again for all the delays.

Here are a few pics. If you notice the alignment marks on the cam gears are a little off. I can't get the cams to turn on the exhaust cam to line up. I'm going to run with it and see how it comes out after the belt of installed.

""

""

""

""

""

I'm not sure if the Crane Cams are causing the alignment issues or what. With the stock gears on it is still about a 1/4 tooth off. Any advice would be appreciated. I have some more pics I'll post later tonight.

If you had the head resurfaced then you will need to adjust the cams via the cam gears to align the cams correctly. This info can be found searching.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
If you had the head resurfaced then you will need to adjust the cams via the cam gears to align the cams correctly. This info can be found searching.

Trust me I'm burning up the search function. Thanks for the hint.
I found this link which kind of goes over what you were saying. Sounds like its an easy fix though. 1/2 a tooth is what I'm off nomatter what. The fidanzas should be able to cover that. What threw me off was the fact that I couldn't line up the gears because the exhaust gear would spring back 1/2 a tooth so running the belt around it was impossible.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=87256&mode=full

Use a cam gear tool to hold the gears aligned while you install the belt....much easier.

Heres the final play. It looks like a small adjustment on the intake side should take care of things. We'll see how it idles when its started up. Thanks again for the push in the right direction.





Just for the record the alignment marks are pretty close to the stockers. I marked where the dowel is on the exhaust cam. (its pointing up)

I may be wrong, as have I been before, but those look like neon 420a timing marks and not Eclipse 420a. I thought the eclipse 420a were in the valley and the neon were on the tooth. That would put you a half tooth off in either direction. I have AEM cam gears that have the same problem. I had to match them up with stock cam gears and remark them.

A second opinion would be nice just to make sure I am not asking you to tear your timing down for no reason.

Originally posted by mreigle
I may be wrong, as have I been before, but those look like neon 420a timing marks and not Eclipse 420a. I thought the eclipse 420a were in the valley and the neon were on the tooth. That would put you a half tooth off in either direction. I have AEM cam gears that have the same problem. I had to match them up with stock cam gears and remark them. A second opinion would be nice just to make sure I am not asking you to tear your timing down for no reason.

It looks like you're right on. Take a look.

You can see the stockers have the marks in the valley. The fidanzas don't.





So I'm going to remark the fidanzas and set up timing with those new marks aligned. That should get me close enough to compensate for the milled head with the adjustables.

Here are a few other links I've found addressing this same issue for those keeping track. Somebody told me to make this the bible (or something like that) so if I'm going overboard w/ this thread please let me know. I'd prefer somebody to stop me before I look like a dumbass. Anyway here they are:

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=87256&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=89400&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=96099&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=59460&mode=full

Thought this one was hilarious so I included it:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=76872&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=59460&mode=full

This is the thread.

Okay, after the last adjustment (good catch on those teeth!) heres what I'm running with. Its as close as they are going to get. Ignore the white lines. The darker lines are the true marks carried over from the stocker gears.

I'm assuming that you didn't have the head milled. Those line up too nicely for you to have it decked. if that is the proper way for them to line up.

The head was decked. If you look close you can see that my marks are a little lower than they should be. In other words they wouldn't pass the ruler test. They are off about a 1/2 tooth on both gears. I changed the timing belt back when the motor was stock and the gears lined up perfectly. I can definetely tell the difference.

Here is what I got done today before I had to go to work. Which needless to say wasn't much. I don't have a 3/4 hole saw to drill the oil return hole in the pan and I can't install the portfueler becuase I'm short a manifold gasket.

It's hard to tell but I think it looks similar to what my AEM's were.

A second opinion from someone with those exact cam gears would be nice.

Ahhh this brings me back. Looks good, I don't know if those timing marks are right, maybe they are but just check the vacuum at idle when you start it up should be between 18-22 inHg. I want to go back to when everyone was new and not breaking. And for the record I know a lot of people don't like clutch master because they break on them or whatever but I've got 20,000 miles on my stage 4 and it still never slips on me, and I'm running pretty much the same setup as you except I eventually traded out the portfueler for megasquirt. If you have any questions feel free to ask me because I've already been through this exact stuff.

Whoa! Look who it is! BlackMagic back in the house!

Originally posted by DR1665
Whoa! Look who it is! BlackMagic back in the house!

Wow, welcome back Curt!

OP, looks very nice so far. I'm a little worried about that oil feed line clearing the hood though. Not sure if the Hahn manifold positions it lower than mine (probably does), but on mine I had to use a 90* fitting off of the turbo to be able to shut the hood.

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05

Originally posted by DR1665 Whoa! Look who it is! BlackMagic back in the house!

Wow, welcome back Curt! OP, looks very nice so far. I'm a little worried about that oil feed line clearing the hood though. Not sure if the Hahn manifold positions it lower than mine (probably does), but on mine I had to use a 90* fitting off of the turbo to be able to shut the hood.

Yeah, I think I'm going to redo the oil sender. I'll take the 90 off that, install it on the turbo and run the feed line below the turbo air piping and around the right side of the head. That should bring that down a lot. Thanks for the input!

looks like what im doing!! lol u doin nething to the tranny to deliver the powah?

I used stock bolts and studs for my exhaust manifold as well but people keep telling me I should have used a stud kit. I haven't had any issues to date but thought it would be a good time to bring it up
for discussion in your build.

Okay, get upset at me for saying this but without degreeing the cams,(which sounds like an extreme pain in the ass) its pretty much a guess until you start up the car and adjust the gears. (If you have adjustables). I've marked the new gears to what I think is the stock marks but with new cams, springs, adjusters, etc, and with the head milled theres no knowing where the proper position for any marks are. Stop me if I'm wrong. BTW - thanks for the support BlackMagic. I might take you up on your offer in the near future.

You can easily zero out the cams before you start it. Search adjustable gears and you will find the information you seek. I typed out the whole process in another thread.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
You can easily zero out the cams before you start it. Search adjustable gears and you will find the information you seek. I typed out the whole process in another thread.

Gotcha! I've done exactly what you spelled out. I'm just saying that with a milled head, the stock timing isn't right anymore so the transfered marks are basically a good starting point and not neccessarily a guarantee to perfect timing. (The marks don't line up now anyway even on the stock gears.)

(Still can't find a god damn 3/4" hole saw anywhere and I'm a plumber even.)

Pics of the latest work.





The portfueler was a pretty easy install. Haven't gotten to the wiring yet though.



I haven't installed the valve cover becuase I need a little more assembly lube on the cams for breakin.




Here are a few pics of the exhaust. I love it!

I got the non fart cannon style thermal, I love it. Wish I could pull it off my RS and put it on my GSX

The eclipse is coming along! Damn, that old Pony in the background on the last pic. Pure sexy!

I am using this thread for info on my swap.

Tom

I tackled most of the wiring today. It took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Figuring out what wires had to go where before the engine was installed was the hardest part I think. I also couldn't decide where to install the MSD-DIS2. I did a little searching and decided that this thread had the best answer.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=84580&mode=full

Here are a few miscellaneous pics of what I did today.


The gauge on the left is a digital A/F gauge option from innovate motorsports. Its quite a bit less expensive than the XD-16. You have to splice in a switch for calibration though.


I'll use this switch to activate the MSD-DIS2 two step rev limiter. And no, my legs won't bump it when I drive (Made sure of that).


Mounted the portfueler module and the fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure if the regulator is going to clear the intake manifold yet though.


This was the easiest place to drill through the firewall. I had signal hose/wire for the greddy boost contoller, portfueler, boost, oil, fuel pressure gauges, and the innovate LC-1.


Mounted the LC-1 with zip ties to the fuel,brake lines etc. under the car.

Going back to your previous thread regarding your cam gears....you didnt do what I said. You can zero the cams up with the alignment holes in the camshaft itself. I dont bother remarking my gears at all, its not worth the effort.

I tried to follow the zeroing out procedure you spelled out. I wasn't exactly sure if I did it right so I tried it the other way again with marking the gears. A couple more tries and I got them lined up exactly as per the OEM gears. Maybe I just wasn't patient enough the first time. I've changed the timing belt previously with the engine in the car and it seemed way easier than with the engine out and accessible. Maybe its a mental thing.

Thanks for the heads up though. Nothing like learning the old fashioned way.

your reading the wrong post then. Its very easy to get the cams zeroed out when using adjustable gears

Finally got some time to put some of the finishing touches on the eclipse. I still have to relocate the battery to the trunk and wire the ignition system and have the downpipe welded. Here is what the engine bay looks like now.

Put the MSD under your dash someplace...trust me!

MSD doesnt do well under the hood exposed to heat. If you liek to replace it then go for it.

Terry

You are on your way!

There are a few issues that are easily seen but it is still a work in progress that I am sure you will troubleshoot before you fire it up.

Does that MSD system have a launch control setting?

I would use a momentary push button switch on the 2-step so you can just let off when you're ready to go. I mounted mine under the radio.

wow reminds me of all the crap i was doing to mine looks really good though, hopefully it works as good as it looks.