Ok, so I did much searching I beleive I have read all the overheating forums, and havent found the same symptoms. The car is a 95 Eagle Talon ESI NT.

I had the car sitting for awhile this winter, and decided to take it to work after it sat for 3 weeks. I only live about 3 miles to work, well when I pulled into work I noticed the temp started to rise on me and I got out and I had a trail of coolant. I was already busy didnt have much time so i went into work....After work I got a ride to the auto parts store and filled it back up with antifreeze and drove home. The car is still getting VERY hot, but I shut it off when it starts to climb high. The coolant is staying in...I havent noticed it leaking, or spewing out like it did before. I put a new thermostat in the car back in July, a 180 degree. I just pulled the car into the garage tonite...to see if it has a leak i dont know about, the top radiator hose gets real hot and the bottom hose is cold. The car will overheat just sitting there at idle. Please help.

If the car overheats at idle, and the top hose gets hot when the the thermostat opens, and the bottom hose stays cold, you have a restricted (clogged) radiator.

The top hose should almost instantly get hot when the thermostat opens, indicating a good pump (and thermostat).

ok, I'll get a new radiator and see if that helps, thanks! I'll post up what I find out.

ok, so heres the update. I decided to check my thermostat in the kitchen and it checks out, opens and works, so check that out. So then I decided to check my radiator. I took it completely out, and put the pressure washer in one end and open up and fired water right through with no problem. reinstalled it on the car and still nothing. I filled it back up with fluids, and then ran it inthe garage just at idle. It started to overheat again and I watched it. the top hose gets very hot, and the bottom is still cold, however the bottom hose feels like it has very minimal pressure. Does this make it a bad water pump? any help would be great. I called Pepboys and they told me a refurbished water pump is 29.99 with a lifetime warranty. so it's not expensive, just wondering how long or hard is this process, if this is the problem?

Does your radiator fan turn on? Have you tried changing the radiator cap?

Yes radiator fan comes on. No, I didnt change my radiator cap. Why would I do that? Anywayz, I started taking it apart to put on a new water pump and timing belt....hopefully this fixes it if not, well I fixed the area anywayz.

Originally posted by fasterimage
Yes radiator fan comes on. No, I didnt change my radiator cap. Why would I do that? Anywayz, I started taking it apart to put on a new water pump and timing belt....hopefully this fixes it if not, well I fixed the area anywayz.

Because if the radiator cap doesn't hold pressure, your car will over heat? And its $3 at any auto parts store. Why not rule that out first, right?

welp if the water pump dont fix it, that will be my next step. Changing the water pump is a real chore. Me and my fat hands fit int here real well!

bad cap wont make it overheat but it will allow coolant to spill out. Why doesnt the car overheat when your burping a cooling system? Thats because its not a sealed collant design like many GM's have.

For some reason your not getting coolant flow. The coolant hot on top only means the therm is opening and there is HEAT TRANSFER through the coolant. It doesnt mean the pump is working. You want to start it up and watch the thermostat open. As it opens you should see coolant flowing from the head into the radiator. NO FLOW means you have a bad pump or a clog.

You can drain the coolant system, remove the lower hose and thermostat. With the thermostat out, fill the head with a garden hose and check that the block is draining out the lower pipe. Now it wont flow out as fast as you fill it due to the HeadGasket orifaces. If all checks out good you have a radiator clogged of bad pump.

To chekc the pump without tearing it apart: Remove the 15mm bolt that secures the water pipe. It will be in the middle of the block on the front of the engine on the lower edge by the oil pan. The water pipe will then pull out of the block by the water pump. You can inspect the water pump impeller to see if it has come off the shaft as you crank the motor by hand.

Go with that and get back to us

well, i already started pulling the waterpump. So i'll get back to ya when I get it all back together.

Might as well install a new timing belt and tensioner pullies while you have it torn apart. If you decide not to, at least be sure to put the belt back on the same direction as when you took it off.

Oh I did get a new timing belt and everything. pulling the water pump has turned out to be more of a PITA than I had imagined. Hopefully tomorrow goes better than today, I got get me a 3 jaw puller tomorrow and figure a way to get the engine mount bracket to come out of the hole its down in, and Then the easy part.

Originally posted by fasterimage
pulling the water pump has turned out to be more of a PITA than I had imagined. I got get me a 3 jaw puller tomorrow

Whatcha getting the 3 jaw puller for?

I need it to pull the Crankshaft pulley off. Either way, I got it and got it come off some but, My engine is not sitting low enough to pull it off. I already have the engine mount off and it is lowered but not enough. I suppose I'll just keep pulling mounts till I get it low enough. If anyone is around Central Pa and wants to give me a hand I got $200 cash and a case of beer. I am not a mechanic and am pulling my hair out 4 days and I dont even have the crank pulley off!!!!