Whats up guys i just got my 2gnt and a whole lot of mess along with it. I traded a civic for it :) one deal ill never forget.
OK, now down to business...

slow sluggish idle coming down from rev
sputtering (might be plugs - havent changed yet)
Battery light is on
CEL 41


Now... when i turn anything on the inside on the car almost dies
(heat, lights, a/c, radio etc..)

Got the battery charged and checked the battery is from 10/07 and got the alternator tested tested out A okay! Tensioned the belt back up and now the car is still doing the same thing. However, worked fine for a day or so after being charged.

Searched some of these symptoms about the idle and CEL but didnt find a definitive answer. Double check the IAC and TPS and all vacuum lines.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!









2gnt (period)

That could be a lot of things - dirty fuel injectors/ fuel filter, bad plugs, poor grounds, bad compression/rings... etc etc

Wow, i never really thought that there could be THAT much wrong with it ya know. Kinda something you dont want to think about when theres already been too much done to it... i feel ive replaced all there is. But ill give those things a looksee! Thanks.










2gnt (period)

I'd start with battery cables/connections if you bat/alt check ok and your lights are still dimming. clean posts and if that doesn't help, ohm the cables out.

Is there a way to check for continuity from the pos. battery terminal to the alternator? Or... how the the wires go to the alternator, like what wire go to it. We replaced the alternator 60A i believe fuse thats under the hood... same thing.

And on a side note: the lights and stuff only dim after the battery juice is about out you know. So when the battery is fully charged the the lights and what not are still good to go. This would be a great help for me.

Thanks again for the input im still kinda new to the 2gnt community i love it!




2gnt (period)

Battery light will illuminate if a problem with something in the charging system is at fault. Fuses, alternator, battery and all wires are included in this, so if there is a problem in just one of them, you will most likely have your light staring you in the face.

Take a multimeter to your alt/battery, if you don't have one you should be able to get a basic one from a parts store for less than $20 (picked mine up for $15 at advance). If your cables aren't long enough, clip an alligator clip to the wire coming off the MM, and take some speaker wire and connect it to the other end of the alligator clips and rig something up to connect the two. Sounds like something is drawing on your battery if the lights are dimming and your idle starts to suck. When I had my electrical problems, once I hit 9.5V I started losing my idle (went through the roof), then my tac (started bouncing around), then my speedo (bounced around) then my car started to bog and i lost all my lights. Turned out my 120A Alt Choke fusible link was blown.

If your battery/alt checked out fine, then look for blown fuses, loose connections, corroded battery terminals, grounds and check for draws on them. If you have a ground out somewhere, you shoul get a reading if you go from the positive battery terminal to a ground spot. Sounds like a small leak. Another thing you could do to measure how much voltage you lose is let your car idle and run a multimeter on it and watch it's reading. If it goes down slowly, then it is probably something small, but if it's sucking like it's its job, then check for bigger problems.

Well it seems something like that... its not like its sucking the juice out of my battery. My car will work only on the life of the battery however, when the juice is out. the car dies.

So i think that the "ground" isn't connected right keeping it from charging or... some other wire.

Ill keep you guys updated. thanks

Not exactly sure but i know there are quite a few grounds, so the process of checking for them all and testing them will be awhile. It's the best way to pinpoint your problem, but like anything just takes time. I only know of an electrical diagram for the 97-99 2gnt, but do not know of one for a 95. Anyone else have one for a 95 ESi?

Here is the diagram for the 97-99, so it won't match up 100%, but I assume it will be similar. I guess you could give it a try, you may/may not find it useful to you. http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?6v705mm1dzx

Thanks ill give this a looksee and check out my buddies. Hes got a 96 ESi. i know some things are just a little different but we can get an idea.

wires suck! i havent started and already im dreading it.. :)

Originally posted by ramsey95ESi
My car will work only on the life of the battery however, when the juice is out. the car dies.

Technically, if the alternator is good, you should be able to start the car and then remove the battery, as the vehicle is actually powered by the alternator. If the car dies when the battery dies, then you have an issue stemming from the alternator or it's connections, imo. Double check those first.

well as i read before or somewhere i seen that there were two grounds from the alternator (correct me if im wrong) However, theres a plug going to the alternator also... could there be anything wrong there? Where does that plug come from?

Another question - Could i do the wire tester trick? hooking it up to the ground and the ground terminal and then pulling fuses until the light goes out?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Check all your grounds and your alt. fuse.

Double checked!

Update: Whats up again.. checked my battery out at the local auto part store. The battery i guess wasnt holding a charge. So swapped it out with another and it started fine and has been since. Only thing im thinking is that how long that battery lasts before the juice is gone.

Im still getting a CEL code 41. (harness/alternator) ive had my alternator checked out and was A ok! What would you guys suggest be done about that? Ive tried searching but havent really found a definite answer.






2gnt (period)

Update 2: Ok back next day with an update once again. Now im starting to think that its something else draining it rather than not keeping it charged. The new battery sat for one night and now it wont start.

So im thinking that the battery is good and the alt. is good because there is no problem when the car is on... like the lights dimming when stuff was turned on as before.

Really any ideas would be great. my buddy and i have searched for days and we found topics relating to this... however, we cant find a single answer. Thanks!






2gnt (period)

Sounds like a short or ground somewhere causing your car to drain when it isn't on. See if you can run a multimeter or even a test light over ALL connections, ground etc and see if you can pinpoint a drain that way. Wires do suck, took my buddy and I 22 hours of straight searching over EVERY wire in my car just to find out a fusible link was blown. So yea, wire chasing is a very timely process and if you look hard enough you will be able to find it, but you may have to tear apart half your car.

Well i really appreciate the input. I found some wires going to my radio that had been cut. seen they sparked or something. now i got them all taped up. Found out one of the wires were to the cigar lighter. Took out the fuses to my (radio, cig lighter, power door locks and anti theft)


Now! when i turn my key to the ACC / on position the fusible link 30A i believe for the ign. Switch clicks! whatever that means. Ive tried searching and cant find anything.





2gnt (period)

Update! Got a new ECU. Works great, thanks guys for the advice and input. it was a PINA though. :)



2gnt (period)

That plug goes directly to the ECU; it's for the alternator's field winding. The B+ post, the threaded post to which the heavy gauge eyelet-terminated wire is connected, is a common culprit. Corroded copper, loose connections, and arcing can cause some pretty nasty effects.

Just remember anytime you have an issue where there is a big loss of power slugish and all, its one of two things, either your not getting good ignition, ( in that case you are running very rich and have the smell) or you arent getting the fuel. A simple " pull your spark plugs" will tell you wether the problem is electrical or fuel. If the plugs are black and such obviously a rich condition then you have a electrical issue, however if the plugs are clean and look like the have a tan tint on the ceramic around the center electrode then the issue is too little fuel, a fuel issue. Thats the basic test.

From there you check your battery, and alternator, if its electrical. If those test good then pull one plug at a time and make sure they are firing, if not you may need a new coil or wires.

If theres not enough fuel have your fuel system checked, and hook it up to a scanner. Engine codes tell alot about your Air fuel condition. You could have a bad 02 thats giving a false reading and dumping extra fuel in your car, your gas milage will drop 10 miles per gallon off what you normally have and it will eventually foul your plugs.

http://upgradecar.blogspot.com/2008/02/tune-up-planned-for-420a-turbo.html

Thanks, i really appreciate the input. And yes those "tests" are exactly what we did. pulled the code... 41 That way it was narrowed down and then fixed everything that had to do with that. Thus, ending with the ECU and now it works perfect!



2gnt (period)

Originally posted by ramsey95ESi
Thanks, i really appreciate the input. And yes those "tests" are exactly what we did. pulled the code... 41 That way it was narrowed down and then fixed everything that had to do with that. Thus, ending with the ECU and now it works perfect! 2gnt (period)

I highly recommend you to buy both Chilton's and Haynes manuel on our 2gnt. It has the codes and probable cause of it.

Right now I'mlooking at my Haynes manuel for that code and it Doesn't show CODE 41 so it could be in the Chilton's instead.
It could be the Fuel pump relay Code 42 in the haynes book.

The only thing i see with that number. Its an generic trouble code relates to all models. This what I found for you with 41 in it.

PO141 probable cause "downtream heated 02 sensor heater circuit fault"
Quoted from the Haynes book, I keep it next to my Pc.

You might as well test your Starter, solenoid could be going. I fig that 90amp Alternator was the one type for our cars. Found this from advance auto site.

or the 2gnt.com manual? thats the one i used. it has all the codes :)


we did replace the fuel pump relay and just about every relay we could think of that goes from the ecu to where ever.. wires upon wires. i said it once and ill say it again.. (wires suck!) but it was the ecu and the problem has been fixed.

Thanks for the input maybe this thread will give an answer to someone else whos having a problem a lot like this one someday.




2gnt (period)