My car tearing it down. My tranny gave out because I sprayed it and I guess it was too much for the auto. I then decided to go 5sp, then changed my mind to build the hell outta the motor and boost it.
This is my block and some other pics of my eclipse.
Installed with the cover off, and showing the crower stage III's

The car has
built bottom end - eagle rods, standard length, with J.e's.
built top end - titanium valve springs and retainers. valve job. keepers, lifeters, rockers. crowers stage III

Turbo set up is a HAHN RACE CRAFT with 20g and Greddy type rs upgrade.

The extras are a 3 inch greddy fat back, udp, intake manifold, msd coil. cam gears. The mani n and gears r on back order tho.

etc....


sorry for the pictures out of order, I don't know how to put them in order thnx

hmm...

Tell me I'm not the best for cleaning up that mess :D

Do not post threads with titles in all caps please. Sounds like you are yelling at us.

Anyhow, looks good.

Who makes titanium valve springs for our car?

Originally posted by djtrickee
Who makes titanium valve springs for our car?

You gotta pay extra for that, sir. :P

Sounds like a nice build, but two questions:

1. What are you using to control that madness?
2. Did you know that Crower 3s are a horrible choice for a larger 420A turbo application? You should get a license plate: "RVRSION" because you're going to be running into some issues with those things if you plan on getting that turbo into its efficiency range.

Otherwise, looks like a sweet build. Keep us posted.

I see no pictures?

Originally posted by DR1665
2. Did you know that Crower 3s are a horrible choice for a larger 420A turbo application?

What? What? Did I hear someone has Crower 3's they don't need?.....

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
greddy fat back,...

I love those!

Looks good man.

sounds good. Are you going stand alone? or are you goin the SFMU route?

Cool! Looks good keep it up brother

Hey guys sorry for that sloppy post.. but I took my motor and tranny at school and rebuilt it and put it back in, drove it for like 5miles, then took it apart to boosted it {underground}. Its finally done, well im still missing alotta of things, tunning****. It sounds really nice tho, but i hate it when ppl ask me if i know that i have a big miss!!??? I just got it to cool properly cuz it was overheating. But the whole process of rebuilding and boosting was good. There was times when frustration kicks in and you get put on axle duty. But all, in all its worth it. Right now whats hurting me is the inproper tune. This car is pretty much not daily drivable with the cluth and cams. I am plannin on 25+psi, with the proper tune that is. I piston\block clearance altered to let me hit 25+ psi. This is when I need allota help on tunning. My friends are convincing me on the aem ems? but I dont know if im ready for an all out stand alone. Well thanks for the feed back guys, hit me up if you can see the pictures. Here is a more extensive list of mods that is in the car.

420a Engine Rebuild Package
JE .020 8.8:1
Eagle STD Length Rods
Melling Oil Pump
STD Rod Bearings 96-99 STD
ITM Water Pump
T Belt with Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Cometic .020 Headgasket
Full Kit GASKETS
No Crankshaft

420a Head Rebuild Kit
Crower Spring Kit w/ Titanium Retainers

SBI rockers
SBI lifters

SBI Complete locks
Set Crower Stage 3 Pair

OBX Cam Gear Eclipse 95-99 420a
Silver
OEM
T belt Tensioner Eclipse 420a
OBX
Intake Manifold Eclipse 95-99 Non Turbo
Add It On +EGR Kit
2053
OBX Map Sensor Fix Eclipse 420a
2091
MSD Coil Pack Eclipse 95-99 Non Turbo
Flat Pin Late 96-99

OBX Spark Plug Wire Set Eclipse
Megan Racing Front Strut Bar

underdrive pulley, greddy evo2, spec 3+ clutch kit.
hrc turbo kit, 20G

Plans. built tranny with quife lsd. slicks. some aem guages.

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
No Crankshaft

That's a hell of a mod, there.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV No Crankshaft

That's a hell of a mod, there.

That's exactly what I was thinking haha.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV No Crankshaft

That's a hell of a mod, there.

Dude. It lightens the engine. I thought mine was sick modded with my drilled crankshaft. Guess not though... :shrug

hey respect to the drilles crank*. I didnt do that but plan on building a spare block with one*

I stop reading after the 3rd sentence due to fucked up grammer, and many spelling mistakes.

Overall, the cars looks good.

Go Mega Squirt You'll not regret it.

-Kevin

Yea the crower 3's are a little too much, but I will need them, soon, after tunning. And thanks for all the positive posts you guys, but why do so many people hate on here?

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
Yea the crower 3's are a little too much, but I will need them, soon, after tunning. And thanks for all the positive posts you guys, but why do so many people hate on here?

No body hating. We just expect others to list clearly and communicate effectively.

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
Yea the crower 3's are a little too much, but I will need them, soon, after tunning. And thanks for all the positive posts you guys, but why do so many people hate on here?

Because you communicate like an Alabama junior high school student with a speech impediment?

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
hey respect to the drilles crank*. I didnt do that but plan on building a spare block with one*

Now that's just awesome.

A Grammer check will be downloaded and used.

I would also like to know why it will be hard putting my turbo into its efficiency range with these cams?

First of all, with regards to why you might feel like you catch some shit over here, this board got to where it is by people getting tired of other DSMers treating them like less of a person just because they drive a 420A. In order to go faster, you have to be smarter.

You've got a lot of mods done at this point and, if you installed them yourself, you obviously know a thing or two, but all you gotta do is think of your posts in the technical sections over here like you were, say, applying for a race technician job. Your car and your mods are your street cred, but in here, it's all about how you present yourself with your words.

On the bright side, we're adults over here and we're not looking to suck Google's dick, so fuck, shit, piss, ass, etc. are fine to use if you feel like it. Just try to keep it a hair short of full G-Unit speak and you'll be fine.

Originally posted by TEAM OVER REV
I would also like to know why it will be hard putting my turbo into its efficiency range with these cams?

They're designed for a 420A, which is a naturally aspirated engine. Therefore, they make use of high lift and overlap in order to improve the ability of the head to draw in a fresh intake charge. The act of the exhaust escaping helps to pull in more air from the intake side.

When you bolt a turbo up to an engine running high overlap cams, the intake charge is pressurized and you don't need the overlap anymore. The turbo will be pushing your fresh air/fuel charge into the combustion chamber, but you're also going to be pushing it out the other side too. Remember, turbochargers work on the principle of pressurizing the intake charge. How efficient is it to pressurize a cylinder, when you have a valve open on the other side? You can still do it, but wouldn't it make sense to have that valve closed?

You can dial the overlap out of the Crower 3s, but then you've pretty much negated any gains you might get from them. You want the Crower 2 Turbo grinds. Search for it. Also throw "cam overlap" into Google and see what you come up with. You'll see.

Finally, your friends talking up AEM EMS are stupid. Very few people in the DSM community - 420a or 4G63 - bother with it. It's too much money and not enough support. Start reading in the Megasquirt forums on this board and you'll see what you need to do.

If you want to pay $1200 for some AEM bullshit that maybe six DSMers on three boards know a little bit about, that's fine, but you're better off spending $500 or less and getting all the fuel and ignition timing you'll ever need for you car.

Later.

Originally posted by DR1665
First of all, with regards to why you might feel like you catch some shit over here, this board got to where it is by people getting tired of other DSMers treating them like less of a person just because they drive a 420A.

I tend to disagree here. I've been here for a long while and I personally feel that this board got to where it is by having more experienced members helping the new members achieve their goals. You see less and less of that these days and more responses like "search first newb" and "if have have to ask this question then you shouldn't even try".

Originally posted by DR1665
In order to go faster, you have to be smarter.

Again, I disgree... you just have to have money, and a discussion board with people willing to lend advise and information.

Originally posted by DR1665
You've got a lot of mods done at this point and, if you installed them yourself, you obviously know a thing or two, but all you gotta do is think of your posts in the technical sections over here like you were, say, applying for a race technician job. On the bright side, we're adults over here

Riiiight. Read back through all the posts in this thread and tell me that our senior memebers are actually offering any help. Everyone just wants to make fun of this guy because he doesn't phrase things well. Way to go. :thumbsup

Originally posted by DR1665
You can dial the overlap out of the Crower 3s, but then you've pretty much negated any gains you might get from them.

Sorry, but this is plain wrong. It helps nobody to just repeat random stuff that you read on the internet and present it as advise to someone looking for help. Have you ever installed these cams in your motor and dialed out some overlap? Did you make less power? Was the car slower?

Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't recommend using Crower 3's or Crane 18's in a small street turbo setup. But for the guys using big turbos and big boost, these cams are the only choice... and they work great! How do I know? I tried for myself.

Originally posted by DR1665
Finally, your friends talking up AEM EMS are stupid. Very few people in the DSM community - 420a or 4G63 - bother with it. It's too much money and not enough support.

Again, you can't just read what others post on various discussion boards and recommend it as advise. The AEM EMS is great. I don't have a lot of experience with it, but there are a LOT of DSMs out there using it. A lot of VERY FAST DSMs using it. The interface is fairly nice, and it has some advanced features and functions that you won't find in basic DIY systems like MegaSquirt. It's far from bullshit, Brian... actually, we'll probably pull the MegaSquirt off of my brother's GSX and use the AEM sometime in the future. We're only building it to make 800+ HP though, so the shitty AEM should be fine. :P

Originally posted by DR1665
you're better off spending $500 or less and getting all the fuel and ignition timing you'll ever need for you car.

Hmmm... I must be doing something wrong then, because I'm finding limitations in the MegaSquirt's 12x12 fuel and ignition tables. Try changing the bins to range from 0-10,000 RPMs and 0-400 KPA. Then try to tune it to be half-way streetable. You'll see what I mean. The AEM's tables are 25% larger, at 16x16.

I'm not trying to be an absolute ass (ok, maybe a little bit)... but maybe you guys could offer a little advise from lessons learned by working on cars yourself.

My advise to the OP would be that the Crower 3 cams will be great, if you're going to boost it real high on something like a GT35R or bigger. For a 20G setup boosting 15-30 PSI, go with a set of Crane 16s. Crane 14s absolutely suck if you're looking to make any decent horsepower. They move up the powerband, but introduce a plethora of other issues when you try to make big power. That's just my advise from experience though.

Originally posted by DarkOne
Two words: Overlap and reversion. Excessive overlap causes reversion, and reversion causes detonation. Detonation breaks things. Crower stage 3 cams have far, far too much overlap for a forced induction engine.

Very very true. Finally some accurate info, except for the last part. If I recall correctly, the Crower 3s have a little less overlap than the Crane 18s and with less exhaust duration and lift.

Two words: Overlap and reversion. Excessive overlap causes reversion, and reversion causes detonation. Detonation breaks things. Crower stage 3 cams have far, far too much overlap for a forced induction engine.

Im kind of a newbie myself, I have a 420a that im trying to build up, But im in high school so im broke. I have a garrett t3/t4 turbo, which is oil and water cooled, an ebay front mount intercooler which is huge, a turbo manifold, and a 255lph walbro fuel pump. Im saving for a vortech 12:1 FMU but I was wondering how I could fool my computer into accepting the boost. I cant afford JE pistons or Eagle rods or anything but im buying a rebuild kit and im gonna bore it .040 over. I was just wondering about the computer work and if with the larger pistons if the compression ratio will remain 9.6:1. Should i look into adjustable cam gears? im trying to make the most bang for my buck while keeping a nice daily driver. I just recently bought the car and the previous owner blew the motor, but I pulled one from a SOHC neon but it was automatic and i have a five speed (but im keeping the DOHC head), so if anyone has experience with that i was wondering if the crank from the auto neon would mount up to my transmission? Sorry for switchin the subject and all. You got a bad ass car. Peace and good luck your your 420a