Ok. I bought a 98 rs eclipse with 110k miles on it to build into a 300hp turbocharged and intercooled civic/integra killer this past wednesday. I plan to build the bottom end, get a stage I head from slowboyracing.com and add either a hahn turbo kit or one of the complete t3/t4 hybrid kits i've seen on ebay for the 420a. The car was sitting for six months and the oil is black as hell. Gotta change all the fluids soon. Where is the oil filter by the way? Everything is so nicely laid out on the 4g63....i'm so not familiar the 420a... The paint has some uv damage. Poor neglected eclipse. Tisk-tisk-tisk. There isn't a single power window switch in the car. Well, there is one i found in the cup holder. How do i remove the pannel to replace these?

Right now, the car needs work to get it running like it was fresh off the lot.

I'm leaking oil from the firewall side of the head. I've read that if i shave a thread or two off of the bolts when i put a new gasket on, this problem will go away. I also hear i dont need to use any applied sealant. Some say i should use some by the cam caps on the valve cover gasket and on the rear main seal of the head gasket, some dont.... Opinions?

When i got the car, i suspect something is seriously messed up with the power steering. It works after the car warms up. It's tried to fight against me a few times like the car was posessed or something. Power steering fluid was all over the resivoir, probably leaked out of the cap. There was fluid in there but i had to top it off. The belt is in pretty sad shape and is hopping around like crazy.

The main thing is this hi-pitched groaning noise that most likeley is comming from the pump. When i first start the car and have it in neutral it makes this noise. When i push the clutch in, the noise stops completely. The clutch is brand new. I've heard things from it being the throw out bearing to ball joints to axles..... It's comming from the passenger side so i'm positive it's not the throwout bearing. I'm going to take the belt off tomorrow and see if it fixes the problem. Anyone have any clue what this is? If you need more info, i'll be more than happy to provide.

If worse comes to worse, i'll remove the power steering and ac. What exactly will i need tool and parts-wise to do this? Use BANME! terminology please. haha.

I dont know a whole lot about cars but i know a good bit about basics and performance when it comes to sport compacts in general. I've wanted a dsm since i saw a teal 2g eagle talon back when i was a little kid (i still am a kid i guess, being almost 22) and have liked that body style ever since. Everyone has a honda. 240sx's are a rare/expensive find these days. This is why i went with this car. I also opted for an rs because i got ocd paranoid about crank walk. My friend bobby has a gst with clutch problems and he's getting it checked out for that asap. But i'm happy tuning my 420a. I want to have around 300whp at my fingertips eventually but getting the car running good comes first. I dont know how long i'll have to use this as my DD.

Other small little things about the car are, the cd player craps out under hard acceleration. Radio works fine. I plan on switching it out when i can afford to. I need new hatch shocks. 4th gear has a slight grind to it sometimes. What is that metal box with the cooling fins on it behind the airbox? All of my tuner buddies with dsms have a 4g63 and are as stumped as i am. I plan on getting a chilton for the car asap.

The car shifts smooth and pulls hard. The clutch grabs like it should. The pedal goes in and out so smoothly. I'm stoked on this. No valve tapping or knocks comming from the engine at all either. Car also has 4 new tires. A buddy of mine has a gst with aftermarket rims he bought for $2500 not too long ago and the chrome gst rims with tires (50% tread left) were included which he's giving me for free....which is sweet. I would really like to do a drum to disk conversion eventually.

I've used the search a little bit and i've also registered on www.dsmtalk.com but i'm awaiting account activation and found references to this place because i have an RS.

Thanks for checking this out and thanks for any and all help.

Brandon.

P.S. This car is a welcome change from my past three cars. My first was a rusted out deathtrap of a 76 plymouth duster my dad got me for free. I only drove it once before getting rid of it. My second car was a 91 mazda 626 with no brakes, bad sunroof and trunk seals, almost 300k miles, a slipping transmission, and an exhaust that constantly cought fire. It wouldn't go into any gear at all one day and i just left it where it broke down. I also have a 95 dodge caravan. It's ok but the first gear of the tranny is about shot. The whole car shudders really bad. This car i like because there is a huge aftermarket for it and it has really smooth body lines. I'm stoked to have this.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Where is the oil filter by the way? Everything is so nicely laid out on the 4g63....i'm so not familiar the 420a...

I'm sorry, but you plan on building a 300whp car, but you don't know where the oil filter is???

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
There isn't a single power window switch in the car. Well, there is one i found in the cup holder. How do i remove the pannel to replace these?

If you have an RS, there is no power windows or anything usually. If there was and the switches are gone now, take out the screws in the door panel and pull it off. There are clips holding the panel on. Once that is off, find where the switches hook up to.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
The main thing is this hi-pitched groaning noise that most likeley is comming from the pump. When i first start the car and have it in neutral it makes this noise. When i push the clutch in, the noise stops completely. The clutch is brand new. I've heard things from it being the throw out bearing to ball joints to axles..... It's comming from the passenger side so i'm positive it's not the throwout bearing. I'm going to take the belt off tomorrow and see if it fixes the problem. Anyone have any clue what this is?

Could be a bad bearing in a pulley. Remove the belts and see if you can locate where it is if the noise goes away after removing the belt.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
If worse comes to worse, i'll remove the power steering and ac. What exactly will i need tool and parts-wise to do this?

A basic tool kit.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I want to have around 300whp at my fingertips eventually....

It will take a lot of time, money, and research to reach your goal.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
What is that metal box with the cooling fins on it behind the airbox? All of my tuner buddies with dsms have a 4g63 and are as stumped as i am.

It's called the ECU.

BTW, welcome to the site. You will find all the info you will ever need to diagnose your problems with your car by using the search feature towards the top of all the pages. I'm not trying to shoot down your dreams of a 300 whp DD car or anything, but to acheive that will take a lot of research and wrench time on your car and with questions like you posted above, it seems like you need to start going to town with the searching and reading.

Yeah.

Thanks. Well most cars i've had, i can see the oil filter without really looking for it. Haha. I'm not skinny enough to crawl underneath my car.

I've got power windows. I'm just curious as to why somebody felt the need to apply enough force to the switches to pop them out.

Oh, i forgot to mention (because it's not really a big deal) but how difficult is it to install the outside door handles? Somebody also felt the need to use excessive force yet again and ripped the passenger one off.....

Poor, poor car.

Yeah, 300whp is my eventual power goal for the street though i'd be happy with 250whp on pump gas. I also plan to do several suspension upgrades, starting with full coilover struts with camber plates and tower bars followed by anti roll bars, tie rods, and control arms. Maybe not this year or next year but eventually. I've been gathering as much info as i can. I always set the bar high with any of my goals and always do my best to see them all through. Though the car needs work, i love it and can see the end result in my head. No, i dont mean a bad-fitting body kit and 20" rims or anything of that sort...... Maybe a carbon front lip but that's it.

I'll check the pulleys tomorrow, well, it's 1:30am on the east coast right now so technically, today.... I hope you're right about a bad bearing. There's a custom chopper shop down the road i can go to and have them order whatever bearings i need.

YEAH 300 PPLUS IS HARD TO GET ON A 420A I ACHIEVED THAT MARK IN JAN DYNOED AT 336.5 TO THE WHEEL ON 93 OCTANE AND 150 SHOT OF NITROUS. AS FOR ORDERING PARTS FROM SLOW BOY RACING I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT BUT BE PREPARED TO WAIT FOR YOUR PARTS I ORDERED THERE STAGE 2 BLOCK AND IT TOOK THEM ABOUT 10-12 WEEKS BEFORE I SAW IT SO WHILE I WAS WAITING I ORDERED THE STAGE 2 HEADS AND STAGE 2 CAMS WHICH PUT ME BACK ANOTHER 4 WEEKS SO I SUGGEST IF YOU WANNA ORDER SOMETHING FROM THEM GET IT ALL AT ONCE. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS GIVE JOHN A CALL HE IS REALLY HELPFUL

Originally posted by SBR420A
YEAH 300 PPLUS IS HARD TO GET ON A 420A I ACHIEVED THAT MARK IN JAN DYNOED AT 336.5 TO THE WHEEL ON 93 OCTANE AND 150 SHOT OF NITROUS. AS FOR ORDERING PARTS FROM SLOW BOY RACING I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT BUT BE PREPARED TO WAIT FOR YOUR PARTS I ORDERED THERE STAGE 2 BLOCK AND IT TOOK THEM ABOUT 10-12 WEEKS BEFORE I SAW IT SO WHILE I WAS WAITING I ORDERED THE STAGE 2 HEADS AND STAGE 2 CAMS WHICH PUT ME BACK ANOTHER 4 WEEKS SO I SUGGEST IF YOU WANNA ORDER SOMETHING FROM THEM GET IT ALL AT ONCE. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS GIVE JOHN A CALL HE IS REALLY HELPFUL

stop shouting!

For the oil filter, get a jack, insert under front of car, there is a brace that runs from the front to the back of the engine bay with a slightly rounded section. lift car with jack at this point (don't forget wheel chocks and the ebrake! jackstands are really smart ideas too) Lay on your back and slide under the car. right behind the oil pan is your filter hanging down, just to the side of the drain plug.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
For the oil filter, get a jack, insert under front of car, there is a brace that runs from the front to the back of the engine bay with a slightly rounded section. lift car with jack at this point (don't forget wheel chocks and the ebrake! jackstands are really smart ideas too) Lay on your back and slide under the car. right behind the oil pan is your filter hanging down, just to the side of the drain plug.

Yup yup, maintenance before performance, thats my rule of thumb, eleventy-billion whp wont do you any good, if you can't start your car. As for me, I love my Red Piece O' Junk, even though it may get walked by a dealership courtesy van... :P gets me from A to B, and it does it looking good :thumbsup

Just keep your goals realistic, and take one step at a time, and with enough time, money and perseverance you'll get there.

Welcome to 2gnt.

P.S. go to rcaz.com for Azdaves handle write up. I just did mine, and chipped the paint off my handles... 10yr warranty FTW.

Originally posted by edxmon
P.S. go to rcaz.com for Azdaves handle write up. I just did mine, and chipped the paint off my handles... 10yr warranty FTW.

+1 greatest writeups EVER!

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Oh, i forgot to mention (because it's not really a big deal) but how difficult is it to install the outside door handles? Somebody also felt the need to use excessive force yet again and ripped the passenger one off..... Poor, poor car.

I actually just recently did this last week. It's not too hard, but there isn't much room to get at it. There are 2 bolts holding the handle to the car (10 mm, one on the outside of the door and one inside) You will also need to undo the lock linkage and door handle linkage and it should be able to pop out. I found out that to get it both out and in easier, to unbolt the part that holds the door on the striker (brain fart, don't remember name). It uses 3 torx bolts to hold it in place on the side of the door. Take out those bolts and shift the assembly downward to get the handle in easier.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Yeah, 300whp is my eventual power goal for the street though i'd be happy with 250whp on pump gas.

To acheive either of those power levels, the engine will most likely need to be rebuilt with forged pistons and rods. Do some research as to which brands suit your needs. Also, fuel delivery will be next on the list of researching as there are many solutions (SFMU, Portfueler, MSnS, etc.)

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I also plan to do several suspension upgrades, starting with full coilover struts with camber plates and tower bars followed by anti roll bars, tie rods, and control arms. Maybe not this year or next year but eventually.

Make sure to not skimp out on these components by going eBay or anything. I had a friend in college that wanted me to install some Matrix coil-overs with Tokico HP shocks he got on eBay and the ride quality was terrible. I would recommend either spring/shock combo if you want a little better performance (I personally use Eibach Pro-Kit springs and Tokico HP shocks and love it) or step up to a full, REAL, coil-over system like Tein (can run upwards of $1000). Good Luck again!

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS Oh, i forgot to mention (because it's not really a big deal) but how difficult is it to install the outside door handles? Somebody also felt the need to use excessive force yet again and ripped the passenger one off..... Poor, poor car.

I actually just recently did this last week. It's not too hard, but there isn't much room to get at it. There are 2 bolts holding the handle to the car (10 mm, one on the outside of the door and one inside) You will also need to undo the lock linkage and door handle linkage and it should be able to pop out. I found out that to get it both out and in easier, to unbolt the part that holds the door on the striker (brain fart, don't remember name). It uses 3 torx bolts to hold it in place on the side of the door. Take out those bolts and shift the assembly downward to get the handle in easier.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS Yeah, 300whp is my eventual power goal for the street though i'd be happy with 250whp on pump gas.

To acheive either of those power levels, the engine will most likely need to be rebuilt with forged pistons and rods. Do some research as to which brands suit your needs. Also, fuel delivery will be next on the list of researching as there are many solutions (SFMU, Portfueler, MSnS, etc.)

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS I also plan to do several suspension upgrades, starting with full coilover struts with camber plates and tower bars followed by anti roll bars, tie rods, and control arms. Maybe not this year or next year but eventually.

Make sure to not skimp out on these components by going eBay or anything. I had a friend in college that wanted me to install some Matrix coil-overs with Tokico HP shocks he got on eBay and the ride quality was terrible. I would recommend either spring/shock combo if you want a little better performance (I personally use Eibach Pro-Kit springs and Tokico HP shocks and love it) or step up to a full, REAL, coil-over system like Tein (can run upwards of $1000). Good Luck again!

Word. We're on the same page then.

I ofcourse plan to get the car tip top before modding it. I spent a good bit of time getting the interior reconditioned to near off-the-lot freshness. The outside....meh. I need to sand all the paint off the bottom of the skirts and get the rust that's under the paint. Found that today when i was taking the mudgaurds off and throwing them into the trash pile i accumulated.

My mom (she had a 1969 hemi-powered plymouth road runner fully restored with a custom blue metal flake and even a horn that sounded like the road runner character from the cartoon when she was my age) suggested i start looking for a low mileage or rebuilt complete engine. How much do those usually run for? I planned on building the bottom end. I've read that i'll destroy the stock engine running close to 10psi of boost.... Any turbo engine should have a built bottom end, imo. Valves, rockers, springs are also a concern. Fuel and ignition system upgrades are a must. I'll check those listed companies out. Will i be good running stock cams with just your basic header, intake, exhaust, spark, piston/rod, venom injectors (10% more fuel over stock they claim) and walbro 255 fuel pump upgrades? I'll worry about cams for boost when i can afford boost. Lol.

I wanted to go with tien full coilovers. Anybody know anything about the d2 coilovers? They have camber plates and look really good. The purple color adds some points too. Haha. I found sets of those on ebay for a 'buy it now' price of around $900. Where should i look for control arms and tie rods brand-wise? I'm told not to look too much into tower braces. Just find ones that fit... I was thinking of going with R1.

I do have a bad pulley bearing for the p/s pump. There is about 3mm of play in it!!!!

Since you guys say 300whp is a big goal, i'll shoot for around 210-245 and step it up eventually if i need more power. I will not run nitrous in this or any car.....maybe if those N-tercooler kits are worth it but other than that, no nitrous.

Thanks for that tidbit of info about the oil filter. I've gotta get some new jack stands as my old ones are in PA right now.

And thanks also for the door handle business. I found all the switches i needed for the power windows floating around in various parts of the car....along with a tequiza cap and a press on designer fingernail.... I also have a grand total of $10.47 worth of change i found in the car when cleaning the ENTIRE interior. Most of which came from underneath the rear seat.

I ride bmx (11 years deep and my bike alone cost $1500), skateboard (12 years deep and i still suck at it), and build audio systems as far as my other hobbies go. I also started building ramps in my front yard to skate and ride because i've always wanted a skatepark of my own....haha. It's a big project and my friends and I are stoked to have it rolling. I'm quite the goal oriented person. I set the bar and hit it, even if i get a few bumps and bruises along the way. I'm passionate about everything i do. I also carried a 3.6gpa all through highschool....granted i did sleep alot and rarely studied. By no means at all am i bragging, i'm just trying to give you an idea of what kind of dedication i'm willing to put into this car. It has it's quirks here and there but i love it and i'm not going to cop out of the project simply because something "better" rolls my way. I'm not happy unless i'm building stuff or being creative. I'm also a pretty good welder. Mig, stick, and tig. Not to good at stick welding but why stick weld anyway? I plan to start glass blowing when i can afford a kiln and also plan to enroll in a tech school and get some degrees so my hobbies can take me somewhere. I hate my current job but it pays the bills and funds my hobbies.

That's it though. I'll use the search for anything else i come across. If i can't find it, i'll post.

Thanks for the help guys and i'm really glad i found this place. :D

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
My mom suggested i start looking for a low mileage or rebuilt complete engine. How much do those usually run for? I planned on building the bottom end. I've read that i'll destroy the stock engine running close to 10psi of boost....

You can find a longblock probably at a local salvage yard for fairly cheap. Under a grand for sure. Keep an eye out in the BST section for members selling engine components as well.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Will i be good running stock cams with just your basic header, intake, exhaust, spark, piston/rod, venom injectors (10% more fuel over stock they claim) and walbro 255 fuel pump upgrades?

Yes, a lot of people don't even touch the head of our engines when they boost. You won't need to worry about fuel components too much for basic bolt-on performance (injectors, fuel pump). Best thing to do is research and plan out what you are going to do to your car so you can save money on parts in the long run.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Anybody know anything about the d2 coilovers? They have camber plates and look really good. The purple color adds some points too. Haha. I found sets of those on ebay for a 'buy it now' price of around $900.

They sound familiar, try a search and see what you come up with.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Since you guys say 300whp is a big goal, i'll shoot for around 210-245 and step it up eventually if i need more power.

It's not a big goal to get to 300whp, it will just take a lot of knowledge and research to realize what is all needed to attain that power level. On a basic 6-8 psi turbo setup on stock internals, you should see around 210whp so that is not hard to goal to reach.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I ride bmx (11 years deep and my bike alone cost $1500)

We got something in common. I'm sure my bikes not over $1000, but it's probably pretty close.

Also, the welding factor you mentioned comes in very handy with our cars as many things (exhaust downpipes, possibly intercooler piping, etc.) need to be fabricated.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
suggested i start looking for a low mileage or rebuilt complete engine. How much do those usually run for?

I got mine for $700

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Fuel and ignition system upgrades are a must.

two words: Mega Squirt!

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS I wanted to go with tien full coilovers.

A bunch of guys here have had great results with the flex series paired with the EDFC approx $1500

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Where should i look for control arms and tie rods brand-wise?

stock or most of the OE quality aftermarket ones work good

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I also have a grand total of $10.47 worth of change i found in the car when cleaning the ENTIRE interior. Most of which came from underneath the rear seat.

Yeah, we drive TOLL cars, as in they charge a toll to ride in them :+

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I'm also a pretty good welder. Mig, stick, and tig. Not to good at stick welding but why stick weld anyway?

I wish I was a good welder... :cry

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Thanks for the help guys and i'm really glad i found this place. :D

Welcome and good luck!

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS i'm not going to cop out of the project simply because something "better" rolls my way.

Good... I'll hold you to that.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
When i got the car, i suspect something is seriously messed up with the power steering. It works after the car warms up. It's tried to fight against me a few times like the car was posessed or something. Power steering fluid was all over the resivoir, probably leaked out of the cap. There was fluid in there but i had to top it off. The belt is in pretty sad shape and is hopping around like crazy. The main thing is this hi-pitched groaning noise that most likeley is comming from the pump.

The most likely cause of this is that there is a hole in the hose going from your resevior to your pump. The grinding noise is it trying to get fluid through the system. I had the same promblem for a while. Just go to a local hardware store and go to the plumbing section for the hose. Could also be that your belt isn't tensioned enough and is slipping. Check to see if its in good shape.

Like everyone else said, 300whp aint shit if your car doesn't run in tip-top shape.

^^What he says. I would start the car and have someone turn the wheels while it is at a stop and see if you can find where it's leaking from. If it is coming from a line, replace it. I had a leak on my eclipse on the hard, metal line and my shop teacher braized up the leak and never had anymore problems.

Turned out it was a bad pulley bearing....and the belt wasn't tensioned for shit. Just one or two turns with the wrench and it slipped off by hand. I removed the belt. It's actually not bad driving without power steering. Not bad at all. I think i'm going to keep it off the car. I do need a belt to run just the ac. No way i'm sitting in cheek to nuts traffic this summer without it.

Now all i really need is cv axles. The suspension goodies could use some urethane bushings. My window seals and hatch shocks aren't in the best shape either. Does dry ice really work to pop out dents? I have some shallow-ish half dollar sized ones. One in each door. There's one in the gas door but a little bit of bondo will clear that little bastard up.

I really need to change the oil too. Looks like tar. I'll get to it shortly. Chances are good i'm going to have to use wood instead of jackstands. i dont have any. :(

Besides ebay, where's a good place to look for a rebuilt motor? When it goes in, i'm also putting in a new clutch and tranny. My old block and head will be degreased and prepped for forged internals and a performance valvetrain. The tranny will be pulled and whatever gears need replacing will be replaced and sent off for cryo treating when i can afford it. 2 engines, two trannys...why not? No point in pulling the motor more times than i have to.

Also, my reverse lights do not work. I'll use the search but lend advice if you can. My spoiler brake light also does not work.

Did i get robbed when i bought this car? I paid $1500 cash for it and everyone says i'm an idiot and should have bought a 1st gen turbo for that price....

Should i be worried about my throwout bearing grinding at a cold start?

It goes away after everything warms up.

That noise worries the shit out of me. Other than the gaskets needing a good repair, the car is mechanically sound at the moment.

I plan on disconnecting the power steering and connecting the lines together and taking ac out of the picture all together. I can drive shirtless if worse comes to worst. The ladies love that shit. :)

Ok, i just did a search and it sounds like it might be the input shaft bearing???

Idk.

All i know is i have this grinding noise comming from my tranny with the clutch pedal out and when i push it in, the noise goes away. Like i said, it goes away completely after the car warms up.

How do i fix this?

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Should i be worried about my throwout bearing grinding at a cold start? It goes away after everything warms up. That noise worries the shit out of me. Other than the gaskets needing a good repair, the car is mechanically sound at the moment. I plan on disconnecting the power steering and connecting the lines together and taking ac out of the picture all together. I can drive shirtless if worse comes to worst. The ladies love that shit. :)

My talon, I believe, has a bad TOB in it, but runs perfectly fine. It makes noise on cold starts on cold days, but goes away once warmed up and driven. The research I have done about it says it won't hurt anything by being like that.

if you have the chrysler motor, on your transmission in the front you can get to it from the top there is a screw in sensor with a sire hooked to it take of the wire its just a plastic clip then screw out the sensor i believe its a 17mm or something then plug back in the wire once you have done that turn the key to on position and put in reverse then have a friend walk to to back of the car, then you push up on the ball on the bottom of the sensor and they should either go on or come off when you push up on it. if nothing happens at all when you push up on it you need a new sensor, you can get this at any mitsubishi dealer for 34 dollars and make sure you tell then you have the chryshler motor. advance auto parts may have it i dont know, if you dont have the chrysler motor then you will need a little needle or something to push in the little hole on the bottom of the sensor. i had the same problem and the sensor is what was wrong with mine

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Ok. I bought a 98 rs eclipse with 110k miles on it to build into a 300hp turbocharged and intercooled civic/integra killer this past wednesday. I plan to build the bottom end, get a stage I head from slowboyracing.com and add either a hahn turbo kit or one of the complete t3/t4 hybrid kits i've seen on ebay for the 420a. The car was sitting for six months and the oil is black as hell. Gotta change all the fluids soon. Where is the oil filter by the way? Everything is so nicely laid out on the 4g63....i'm so not familiar the 420a... The paint has some uv damage. Poor neglected eclipse. Tisk-tisk-tisk. There isn't a single power window switch in the car. Well, there is one i found in the cup holder. How do i remove the pannel to replace these? Right now, the car needs work to get it running like it was fresh off the lot. I'm leaking oil from the firewall side of the head. I've read that if i shave a thread or two off of the bolts when i put a new gasket on, this problem will go away. I also hear i dont need to use any applied sealant. Some say i should use some by the cam caps on the valve cover gasket and on the rear main seal of the head gasket, some dont.... Opinions? When i got the car, i suspect something is seriously messed up with the power steering. It works after the car warms up. It's tried to fight against me a few times like the car was posessed or something. Power steering fluid was all over the resivoir, probably leaked out of the cap. There was fluid in there but i had to top it off. The belt is in pretty sad shape and is hopping around like crazy. The main thing is this hi-pitched groaning noise that most likeley is comming from the pump. When i first start the car and have it in neutral it makes this noise. When i push the clutch in, the noise stops completely. The clutch is brand new. I've heard things from it being the throw out bearing to ball joints to axles..... It's comming from the passenger side so i'm positive it's not the throwout bearing. I'm going to take the belt off tomorrow and see if it fixes the problem. Anyone have any clue what this is? If you need more info, i'll be more than happy to provide. If worse comes to worse, i'll remove the power steering and ac. What exactly will i need tool and parts-wise to do this? Use BANME! terminology please. haha. I dont know a whole lot about cars but i know a good bit about basics and performance when it comes to sport compacts in general. I've wanted a dsm since i saw a teal 2g eagle talon back when i was a little kid (i still am a kid i guess, being almost 22) and have liked that body style ever since. Everyone has a honda. 240sx's are a rare/expensive find these days. This is why i went with this car. I also opted for an rs because i got ocd paranoid about crank walk. My friend bobby has a gst with clutch problems and he's getting it checked out for that asap. But i'm happy tuning my 420a. I want to have around 300whp at my fingertips eventually but getting the car running good comes first. I dont know how long i'll have to use this as my DD. Other small little things about the car are, the cd player craps out under hard acceleration. Radio works fine. I plan on switching it out when i can afford to. I need new hatch shocks. 4th gear has a slight grind to it sometimes. What is that metal box with the cooling fins on it behind the airbox? All of my tuner buddies with dsms have a 4g63 and are as stumped as i am. I plan on getting a chilton for the car asap. The car shifts smooth and pulls hard. The clutch grabs like it should. The pedal goes in and out so smoothly. I'm stoked on this. No valve tapping or knocks comming from the engine at all either. Car also has 4 new tires. A buddy of mine has a gst with aftermarket rims he bought for $2500 not too long ago and the chrome gst rims with tires (50% tread left) were included which he's giving me for free....which is sweet. I would really like to do a drum to disk conversion eventually. I've used the search a little bit and i've also registered on www.dsmtalk.com but i'm awaiting account activation and found references to this place because i have an RS. Thanks for checking this out and thanks for any and all help. Brandon. P.S. This car is a welcome change from my past three cars. My first was a rusted out deathtrap of a 76 plymouth duster my dad got me for free. I only drove it once before getting rid of it. My second car was a 91 mazda 626 with no brakes, bad sunroof and trunk seals, almost 300k miles, a slipping transmission, and an exhaust that constantly cought fire. It wouldn't go into any gear at all one day and i just left it where it broke down. I also have a 95 dodge caravan. It's ok but the first gear of the tranny is about shot. The whole car shudders really bad. This car i like because there is a huge aftermarket for it and it has really smooth body lines. I'm stoked to have this.

Hey, bro. Mine sat in a garage for 5 yrs. before I bought her. I eyed my Whittie Eclipse thru an Automart when I was married. This is an ATX, thats why nobody bought her,it my gain cause she has good torque,lol. This, back fired into my Ex.'s face when she found out I bought , haha.

Anyway, I recommend for you to change you Water pump and your Timing Belt the whole kit and change your transmission filter/fluid and same for your oil. Also, inspect every hose and part too! From shocks to suspension coponents. Eventually, they will go out soon becuase your car sat for along time. Do, one part at time if you must, gas prices is 3.50 a gallon nowadays.. It' pay off at end take your time and don't rush it, like my younger brother he fucked up a nice Talon because he didn't do it right and was careless too.

Originally posted by dalesmitsu
Hey, bro. Mine sat in a garage for 5 yrs. before I bought her. I eyed my Whittie Eclipse thru an Automart when I was married. This is an ATX, thats why nobody bought her,it my gain cause she has good torque,lol. This, back fired into my Ex.'s face when she found out I bought , haha. Anyway, I recommend for you to change you Water pump and your Timing Belt the whole kit and change your transmission filter/fluid and same for your oil. Also, inspect every hose and part too! From shocks to suspension coponents. Eventually, they will go out soon becuase your car sat for along time. Do, one part at time if you must, gas prices is 3.50 a gallon nowadays.. It' pay off at end take your time and don't rush it, like my younger brother he fucked up a nice Talon because he didn't do it right and was careless too.

I know exactly what you mean. Lotta work going into this car. Still, i think it's a mixed blessing that my header was cracked. Gonna jawn up ebay soon and get a stainless 4 to 1 unit.

The gaskets in the motor need to be replaced. Oil pan is good. Head gasket and valve cover gasket need it asap. I have oil sitting on top of the valve cover. Um, shocks and springs are getting replaced soon. All fluids and filters are getting replaced. Radiator is getting flushed. I inspected all the engine hoses and my brake lines. Only ones that needed to be replaced are now out of the car. No P/S. Haha. The alternator belt is getting replaced as prevent/maint. It's in very good shape, but still. Water and oil pumps are gettting replaced with new units ofcourse! I plan on taking my time for sure. I've already researched what i want performance wise in the car.

This is just the bare minimum to keep me content after the car is fixed and running smooth. Repaint will come after i get all my body goodies in. Here's list. I keep a blog on my myspace and a notebook as well to keep track of everything btw and i'm ordering my chilton and haynes manuals soon.

*Unorthodox racing billet crank pulley

*sky-high tuning 2.5" test pipe/cat converter eliminator

*tsudo 2.5" catback exhaust

*Stainless 4 into 1 header. Haven't decided on brand.....they're all the same. Not that i care, my stock header is a peice of shit and anything will be an improvement.

*Tokico hp blue shocks

*eibach sportline springs. 1.6" drop

*ractive short ram intake

*work emotion 17x7.5" or motegi trac lite 17x7" wheels

*nitto 555 225/40 tires

*extreme dimensions carbon fiber front bumper lip

*eclipse gsx sideskirts

*eclipse gsx rear spoiler

*eclipse gst rear disk brake conversion

*Stainless braided brake lines, clutch fluid line

*powerslot rotors on all 4 corners w/green stuff pads

*ractive front and rear strut tower braces

*megan racing rear lower tie bar.

*progress front and rear camber correction kit.

*B&M short throw shifter with symborski shift kit

*koyo radiator

*Flex-a-lite fans

whats a shifting kit? i bought a short shifter but does a shift kit make it even shorter?

Originally posted by tyler 199
whats a shifting kit? i bought a short shifter but does a shift kit make it even shorter?

I've since changed up my game plan....alot actually. You'll see in due time. Working seven days a week will soon pay off.

To answer your question: No. The shift kit takes alot of the slop out of the system. Kinda like prothane/energy motor mounts are compared to stockers..... Smooth, direct shifts. You wouldn't believe how bad i want to jump on that.
Want a shorter short shifter? Cut the bitch down or pony up for an adjustable dealie from b&m or the like. Feel me?

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Ok. I bought a 98 rs eclipse with 110k miles on it to build into a 300hp turbocharged and intercooled civic/integra killer this past wednesday. I plan to build the bottom end, get a stage I head from slowboyracing.com and add either a hahn turbo kit or one of the complete t3/t4 hybrid kits i've seen on ebay for the 420a. The car was sitting for six months and the oil is black as hell. Gotta change all the fluids soon. Where is the oil filter by the way? Everything is so nicely laid out on the 4g63....i'm so not familiar the 420a... The paint has some uv damage. Poor neglected eclipse. Tisk-tisk-tisk. There isn't a single power window switch in the car. Well, there is one i found in the cup holder. How do i remove the pannel to replace these? Right now, the car needs work to get it running like it was fresh off the lot. I'm leaking oil from the firewall side of the head. I've read that if i shave a thread or two off of the bolts when i put a new gasket on, this problem will go away. I also hear i dont need to use any applied sealant. Some say i should use some by the cam caps on the valve cover gasket and on the rear main seal of the head gasket, some dont.... Opinions? When i got the car, i suspect something is seriously messed up with the power steering. It works after the car warms up. It's tried to fight against me a few times like the car was posessed or something. Power steering fluid was all over the resivoir, probably leaked out of the cap. There was fluid in there but i had to top it off. The belt is in pretty sad shape and is hopping around like crazy. The main thing is this hi-pitched groaning noise that most likeley is comming from the pump. When i first start the car and have it in neutral it makes this noise. When i push the clutch in, the noise stops completely. The clutch is brand new. I've heard things from it being the throw out bearing to ball joints to axles..... It's comming from the passenger side so i'm positive it's not the throwout bearing. I'm going to take the belt off tomorrow and see if it fixes the problem. Anyone have any clue what this is? If you need more info, i'll be more than happy to provide. If worse comes to worse, i'll remove the power steering and ac. What exactly will i need tool and parts-wise to do this? Use BANME! terminology please. haha. I dont know a whole lot about cars but i know a good bit about basics and performance when it comes to sport compacts in general. I've wanted a dsm since i saw a teal 2g eagle talon back when i was a little kid (i still am a kid i guess, being almost 22) and have liked that body style ever since. Everyone has a honda. 240sx's are a rare/expensive find these days. This is why i went with this car. I also opted for an rs because i got ocd paranoid about crank walk. My friend bobby has a gst with clutch problems and he's getting it checked out for that asap. But i'm happy tuning my 420a. I want to have around 300whp at my fingertips eventually but getting the car running good comes first. I dont know how long i'll have to use this as my DD. Other small little things about the car are, the cd player craps out under hard acceleration. Radio works fine. I plan on switching it out when i can afford to. I need new hatch shocks. 4th gear has a slight grind to it sometimes. What is that metal box with the cooling fins on it behind the airbox? All of my tuner buddies with dsms have a 4g63 and are as stumped as i am. I plan on getting a chilton for the car asap. The car shifts smooth and pulls hard. The clutch grabs like it should. The pedal goes in and out so smoothly. I'm stoked on this. No valve tapping or knocks comming from the engine at all either. Car also has 4 new tires. A buddy of mine has a gst with aftermarket rims he bought for $2500 not too long ago and the chrome gst rims with tires (50% tread left) were included which he's giving me for free....which is sweet. I would really like to do a drum to disk conversion eventually. I've used the search a little bit and i've also registered on www.dsmtalk.com but i'm awaiting account activation and found references to this place because i have an RS. Thanks for checking this out and thanks for any and all help. Brandon. P.S. This car is a welcome change from my past three cars. My first was a rusted out deathtrap of a 76 plymouth duster my dad got me for free. I only drove it once before getting rid of it. My second car was a 91 mazda 626 with no brakes, bad sunroof and trunk seals, almost 300k miles, a slipping transmission, and an exhaust that constantly cought fire. It wouldn't go into any gear at all one day and i just left it where it broke down. I also have a 95 dodge caravan. It's ok but the first gear of the tranny is about shot. The whole car shudders really bad. This car i like because there is a huge aftermarket for it and it has really smooth body lines. I'm stoked to have this.

Sorry, Read my top Reply.

Well before you even plan to make your RS into a suposed 300hp honda killer you need to learn the basics. First off the oil filter is not that hard to spot. Look under the belts. And buying a turbo kit of ebay comes with ebay risks. First off lets be realistic. Your car comes from the facotry with 140hp. In order for your car to withstand 300hp your going to have to replace everything. A stock set of pistons, and some fancy venom cam gears are not going to get you very far when it comes to performance. My suggestion is start small. If you are looking at rebuilidng, make sure you have more than enough money to get your project underway. Be prepared for things to go wrong. It is a motor that has over 100k on it. Boosting the engine in that condition is pushing your limits. Go and buy a real turbo kit. I reccomend one from hahn, because from my own personal experience, piecing a kit together is alot more work than you think sometimes ;). Anyways, best of luck with your car, I wish you the best, and if you ever need any help come to the guys and gals at 2gnt! They have saved my ass from a lot of shit. And eh don't be discouraged when you get beat by a few civics, and integras every now and then. All you need to know is that they are cheap and 3 days from the time you raced them they are not going to be running. DSMs all day. If you put your mind to it, then my man you can certainly do it.

Originally posted by DSMalex
Well before you even plan to make your RS into a suposed 300hp honda killer you need to learn the basics.

LOOK AT THE DATE |\|00B! this thread is a year old.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by DSMalex Well before you even plan to make your RS into a suposed 300hp honda killer you need to learn the basics.

LOOK AT THE DATE |\|00B! this thread is a year old.

That and the OP hates 420A's now and hopefully is moving back to Hondas.

1. I know the basics.

2. The oil filter isn't under the belts. It's behind the oil pan.

3. My dsm breaks down more than any honda i've ever seen, owned or worked on.

4. I'm aware i can't make 300hp with stock pistons and cam gears. I'm also aware that cam gears are a waste of money when i was only shooting for 300. All i would need is a forged bottom end, an smfu with bigger injectors and a 255 and a turbo that wouldn't max out before 300......

5. I'm peicing my own kit. It cost me a 1/4 what the hahn kit costs. Fuck paying those prices when i'll still be left with a stock engine.

6. I'm well aware of what beating the shit out of a motor with 100k+ on it will do to it. That's why the bastard keeps breaking down.

7. I've beat civics and integras N/A. I lost by a little to a v6 3rd gen. We're having a rematch as soon as my car is back up, at which point my turbo kit will be on the car and i will be building another block on the side.....

8. Do not bring threads up from the dead, especially mine.

9. a honda civic/accord/integra boosted at 10psi will walk all over a 420a boosted at the same psi given that both drivers can drive. Also, it's cheaper to build a honda engine than a 420a. Forged bottom end for $300 used and they're being sold EVERY DAY. Prices are low because the market is huge. We and the neons.org crowd are the 420a market. It isn't that large and probably wont ever be. Dont talk shit about hondas like you know them inside and out..... Talk shit about the ricers that own hondas.

10. DJtrickee, i dont hate the 420a, i just hate hunting for parts and i hate paying out the ass for said parts. $350 for a fucking transmission and that's cheap for an nvt350...... I can get an ls teg tranny for $200, if not cheaper. B18 shortblock for $300 shipped...... That's all i'm saying. I might change my tune after the car is back up but i'm seriously sick of it breaking every other month, having it down for months until i find parts only to have it break 3-6 weeks after it's fixed.... I haven't even been to the f-ing track yet!

11. I read my old post. Wow, i had new tires when i got the car. I forgot all about that. They're all bald as fuck now. Two, i loaned to a friend a few days ago...

Originally posted by DSMalex
Well before you even plan to make your RS into a suposed 300hp honda killer you need to learn the basics. First off the oil filter is not that hard to spot. Look under the belts. And buying a turbo kit of ebay comes with ebay risks. First off lets be realistic. Your car comes from the facotry with 140hp. In order for your car to withstand 300hp your going to have to replace everything. A stock set of pistons, and some fancy venom cam gears are not going to get you very far when it comes to performance. My suggestion is start small. If you are looking at rebuilidng, make sure you have more than enough money to get your project underway. Be prepared for things to go wrong. It is a motor that has over 100k on it. Boosting the engine in that condition is pushing your limits. Go and buy a real turbo kit. I reccomend one from hahn, because from my own personal experience, piecing a kit together is alot more work than you think sometimes ;). Anyways, best of luck with your car, I wish you the best, and if you ever need any help come to the guys and gals at 2gnt! They have saved my ass from a lot of shit. And eh don't be discouraged when you get beat by a few civics, and integras every now and then. All you need to know is that they are cheap and 3 days from the time you raced them they are not going to be running. DSMs all day. If you put your mind to it, then my man you can certainly do it.