As usual, I left this too long and I only have 6 days to pass smog for registration.

I did some basic maintainance beforehand, but still failed for HC in the pre-test (over 100 ppm vs 56 to pass at 15mph). Other parameters (%CO2, %O2, %CO, NO ppm) all within allowed range.

Guys at test facility suggested reverting to stock plugs (use stock 6 range instead of 5s). I can do that, but I can't see it making that much of a difference. I'm gonna test my plug wires for resistance later tonight. Looking for some other advice on what else to do...

thx,
juan

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Existing conditions:
- idles ok
- dirty head and upper intake manifold
- stock HG, was retorqued last time had significant oil leakage.
- have been going through more oil recently. Always Mobil1 10w30.
- am due for oil change
- no recent CEL
- 97,500 mi, all on 87 octane gas (usually Chevron)
- perceive that I'vr been burning through gas more quickly than normal, but have not quantified this.

Mods:
- GS-T exhaust, NGK BKR5-E11 gapped to ~ 0.050", 55mm bored tb, AEM cam gears (not adjusted since installed by Mitsu dlr), MSD plug wires

Test Preparation:
- new NGK BKR5-E11, gapped to ~ 0.050" (old removed plugs were clean, not fouled, also no oil in sprk plug wells).
- new Fram PCV.
- stock intake reinstalled, with new air filter.
- 2 doses of Mobil fuel system treatment in last two fillups.
- 1 can throttle body cleaner.
- had rust on connectors of MSD plug wires bought new 2yrs ago (worst on 3&4, 2 moderate, none on 1), and on connectors for coil pack. Soaked with rust/penetrant, swabbed and cleaned with spray brake cleaner.
- car driven hard prior to test to get up to temp.

Test results:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2_|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_ NO (ppm)___|
M1 15mph | 1861 | 14.7 | 0.2 | 117 (9/56) | 0.17 (0.02/0.51) | 67 (57/443) |
M2 25mph | 1890 | 14.6 | 0.2 | _89 (7/40) | 0.13 (0.03/0.49) | 84 (50/730) |

Juan
The 96 neon with over 175K miles on the factory cat, I cycle through 3 tanks with Lucas' fuel injector treatment, changed spark plugs, and pcv valve prior to going in. Passed legitimately at the G&C smog shop on Tennesse across from Redland Cyclery. The Eclipse is another story all together.

If you need to loan out my lower mileage cat, let me know. I still have my 97 with 56K on it sitting in my storage closet being un productive. I think you should probably pull the EGR and TB related components and clean them throughly.

But I think it is your Kosei wheels that are causing you to fail. need to get rid of them and sell to me...:P

If the only issue is elevated HC, and it's worse at lower speeds (lower engine load), AND you subjectively have decreased milage, my first thought is your O2 sensor. I read your conditions but didn't see anything regarding that.

I don't see how switching to the cooler stock plugs will prevent the computer from causing this rich condition. and switching cats will help with the CO and NO emissions primarily - but those aren't the issue for you.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I just ordered a front sensor from Sparkplugs.com (Denso 234-4076). Hopefully that will take care of it.

Kaiser, I'd definitely be up for borrowing a fresher cat from you. I wouldn't be surprised if mine is all cooked up inside, given that its been through 97,000 pretty hard miles. And no, you still can't have my K1's... ;p


I did some other diagnostics too:

Coil resistance:
Primary : 1&4 ~0.5-0.7Ω, 2&3 ~0.5-0.7Ω
Secondary : 1&4 12.50Ω, 2&3 12.53Ω,

EGR solenoid:
37.1Ω @ ~90°F

IAT sensor:
7.8 kΩ @ ~94°F

Coolant temp sensor:
8.1 kΩ @ ~94°F


I could not get a comprehensible reading from the O2 sensor itself. Firstly, the diagram in the Chiltons is less than helpful. I also found it a real pain to get the multimeter probes to keep a good contact while rooting around in the sensor connector housing, and I didn't have much more success with alligator clips. Maybe Radio Shat has some better connectors or something.

juan

Wish I could help, Juan.

Juan,
Email me to let me know when you want the cat. I may have to search around for the gaskets.

I am also guessing the injectors are getting old and leaking fuel into the chamber rather than spraying it in there. Just a thought.

Kaiser

I think I can be of huge help, ill post later with all the information you'll need. e-mail would be faster though, get in touch.

turbo8u@gmail.com

I set up my OBDII logger (from OBD-2.com), and if I am reading it right the trace for O2 seems to respond properly. At idle the range was bouncing between 0.2 and 0.8V, and on full throttle saw readings up near 1.0V.

If that is a strong indicator that the O2 sensor is actually ok, then it must be something else.

I should be getting the new front O2 sensor tomorrow, so I'll put that in anyways and see if it helps.

juan

the oxygen sensor isnt a likely suspect in my opinion Juan.

When the HC's are high, only...and the carbon monoxide is normal, this doesnt indicate a rich condition always. Based on your gasses, your problems exists in the ignition system. Problem is you're not burning everything thats getting in. Stock plugs will help, also new plug wires. Rusty wires arent cool. If you have weak ignition, and youre not burning the fuel entirely, HC's will go up. Your plug wires probably corroded a lot. Any occasional misfiring? Also, heavy carbon build up will affect HC's and you said the head is way gunked up. Your catalytic converter is fine, there are no indications in the gasses that it isnt functioning.

.2-.8v cycling is fine

burning oil wont change the emissions, believe it or not

Car feel somewhat sluggish? Have a compression gauge handy? Low compression wont aid in the air fuel burning very well either, youll also have a noticeable loss in power.

start with the ignition, from what you said about the corrosion with the wires, out of range plugs...those are some tell tale signs along with high HC's ONLY, that its a problem with the fuels ability to burn right.

- did the Mopar CCC yesterday. Nice plumes of white smoke after the 5min sit time, but now have a CEL light.

- based on suggestions here that problem is with fuel injection, had the 3 Step Gumout Pro Fuel package and the fuel injector balance / flow chart diagnosis done today. Report said "fuel injectors are to spec - possible futher diagnosis needed".

- would leak in the air intake after the TB be a factor?
I noticed the other day is that the clamp on the hose connecting the PCV valve to the intake plenum was not tight. I got some new hose clamps and will put those in tonight.

- I could not find any decent replacement plug wires in stock at any of the local shops (Autozone, Kragen, Pep). From the feedback in other threads, I was trying to find MSD or Accel, or Moroso. I don't have time to wait for anything to be shipped, otherwise I'd order something from Howell, ModernPerformance, or even Summit.
Since thedawg dun like Bosch ones that Autozone has, and I seem to recall little support for the Denso ones, any comments on 'out-the-door' alternatives are appreciated.

- anyone heard of any sort of extension option for getting the registration validated even though smog pass is pending? My reg date is monday.

juan

hmm, anyone ever done this?

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ftp/pdfforms/cap_app.pdf

The gov has a "Consumer Assistance Program"
- must be registered owner
- must pay registration fee
- failed Smog Check inspection
- emissions control system not "tampered"
- vehicle not in process of being sold or initially registred
- vehicle not registered to business

maybe the Test-Only eligible condition may apply to me. I don't need the compensation per-se, just the ability to keep working on the car till it is fixed. I have already spent over $100 on the diagnosis & repair.

juan

I thought that if you do a "pre-test", then the results are not made available to the DMV?

Seems they have a form that reports your car's emissions test history:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx

I had a "pre-test" done thinking that any results would not be documented as such, but it actuually does show up in the query results (as an F)?


juan

Damn dude, I headed out to victorville today. If ya needed wires, I hace a brand new set of MSD's you could have borrowed.

Juan,

In case you didnt read my post, its NOT fuel related.

yes, you can get an extension.

yeah, I saw your post, thanks! I just tried to hit whatever I could at the time.

I was able to get the one month extension at the DMV office this morning. Gives a little more time to identify and fix the problem.

juan

Originally posted by juan
I thought that if you do a "pre-test", then the results are not made available to the DMV? Seems they have a form that reports your car's emissions test history: http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx I had a "pre-test" done thinking that any results would not be documented as such, but it actuually does show up in the query results (as an F)? juan

You are correct. A pretest is supposed to be aborted before it gets transmitted to the DMV. Your smog tech was either stupid, or wasn't paying attention, or both. You can go back and thank him for putting you on the list of cars that get test-only from now on every two years.

well, turns out you can get an extension on the smog. The friendly, neigbourhood DMV staff issued me a tempprary registration card to put in the car window, and 30 days to pass the smog.

Note that while one is supposed to have a 'Test-only' form, I was able to get it with a 'Pre-test' report. Dunno if it mattered, but I had the reports and receipts for the diagnostics and parts with me in case they wanted to see.

juan

HC is oil in exhaust or unburned fuel. I'm sure you know what burning oil smells like so you're simply dealing with either an old/clogged cat or not warming the cat up enough. And yes the plugs matter, put them back to stock.

All my money is on putting in a new cat, and driving it hard on the freeway for a minimum of 30 mins, and do the test within 5 mins of getting to the smog shop.

Also- CAP is useless if you have a job.

hmm, I haven't particularly noticed a burning oil smell, but maybe its being masked by the normal smell of hot rubber and brake compound... ;)

I did warm up the cat pretty good. Hopefully Kaiser's will help.

Last time I had it smogged it failed the first test for HC as well. Replaced the plugs and wires and did a few other things I can't recall at the moment and was able to pass, just.

I'm gonna put in the stock Champion plugs too. BTW, there seemed to be some reports of using a 0.038" gap for those ones, and other reports of 0.05". Any comments?

"CAP is useless if you have a job"? Maybe I'm being dense (not the first time for that, certainly), but say what now?

juan

Some pretty good info posted here. Here is a question perhaps someone can clear up relating to unburnt fuel.

Turby you made a good point and i can see dans thinking. If you have a spark related issue causing your fuel mix to not properly burn or causing an incomplete burn, you are release unburnt fuel into the exhaust correct?

Now if your running rich to the point where the ignition system cannot burn the mixture completely, you are going to get a similer result of unburnt fuel released into the exhaust. Wouldnt these to conditions result in similer numbers?

Turby exactly how are the two different and why would the HC only be out of spec for ignition only?

Emissions testing and analsys was never something i got into so details are unclear to myself. Other than basic troubleshooting o2 sensors and emissions equipment was as far as i ever needed to go to solve the issue.

Terry

For a stock 420a, .038 is wrong, .050 is right.

Stock plug is Champion RC9YC5 or NGK BKR6E-11, and both are gapped correctly out of the box.

CAP is a joke.
** "If you live alone you must not make more then $16,391 a year or $1,366 a month."
** If any component of your car has ever been modified, you are disqualified. This includes your cam gears.
** If you have a "Test Only" requirement, you can bypass the income requirement, but then you have to:
1) Fail smog, $50
2) Do your own repairs to smog related equipment, $20-$100
3) Wait six weeks for your application to be approved.
4) Pay your entire smog repair bill at a CAP approved "gold shield" repair garage (no RRE), $200-$2000
5) Apply to CAP for $500 max reimbursement (and your $100 back).
6) Pray there are "remaining funds" for the year, because if they're out of money, they dont have to pay you a dime.

This process obviously takes longer than the 30 day DMV extension, so you have to keep going back to the DMV for extension stickers, and I'm not even sure you can get an extension past 30 days.

On top of possibly losing the use of your car for months at a time, you are hit with the high rates and incompetence of the gold shield station mechanics. The $500 reimbursement doesn't even begin to cover the extra expense involved with going to their approved stations.

Buying an aftermarket warranty that covers emissions repairs is far cheaper and will actually pay your entire repair bill.

Bottom line, a new cat costs $100 and will save you all the BS.

Dan, Mitchell and chiltons agree the spec is .038-.043 spark plug gap.

Interesting discussion here. not to thread hijack or anything, but Josh someday we gotta talk about what exactly low compression pistons do to emissions in the 420a, and what can be done to pass a low-comp motor in Cali.

Juan, if you want an extra hand, let me know. Just make it late in the day - this heat is killin' me!

Kaiser is gonna come over with his compression tester sometime over the next few days, so maybe we can have a little "Redlands meet"...

Dun worry, I've no plans to do any work out in the garage in the afternoon these days either!

juan

there is one more option nauty smog it. Find a shady shop give the dude 100 bucks and say make it pass. I had to do that with my old blazer, all my smog was taken off my car ;)

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Dan, Mitchell and chiltons agree the spec is .038-.043 spark plug gap.

Chiltons is crap, I threw mine away after I found 3 errors on a single page. I've never even heard of Mitchell, but I think you're looking at the 2.4L 4g64 spec. :shrug

My 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS "Owners Manual" lists these specs:

Engine Model 420a
Spark plugs:
NGK - none
DENSO - none
Champion - RC9YC5
Gap: .048 to .053 in

Engine Model 4g63
Spark plugs:
NGK - BPR6EKN
DENSO - W20ETR-L8
Champion - none
Gap: .028 to .031 in

Engine Model 4g64
Spark plugs:
NGK - BKR5E-11
DENSO - K16PR-U11
Champion - RC9YC4
Gap: .039 to .043 in

I'll take a pic of it if you would like.

Mitchell is usually only sold to mechanics and shops.

Originally posted by Chamuko
Mitchell is usually only sold to mechanics and shops.

That probably explains why my car is always in worse shape after leaving it with a mechanic.

You have never heard of mitchell on Demand? Mitchell has been making manuals and onine data longer than you have been alive.

I see 2 errors in your factory manual, are you going to throw that out? Last i checked NGK and Denso make plugs for our cars.

For the record I was looking at the 4g64 in mitchell. Mitchell is about as good as Alldata is. I suppose you have the audacity to make claims that both are the source of your issues with choosing the wrong shops to take your car?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I see 2 errors in your factory manual, are you going to throw that out? Last i checked NGK and Denso make plugs for our cars.

Yep I know they do, and you'll notice I've suggested the NGK equivalent plug in this thread and most others. I don't read that as an error though, more like Mitsu is saying to just use Champion even though other equivalent brands exist. Last I checked there were more spark plug manufacturers than NGK, Denso, and Champion too if you're really hurting for ammunition.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
For the record I was looking at the 4g64 in mitchell. Mitchell is about as good as Alldata is. I suppose you have the audacity to make claims that both are the source of your issues with choosing the wrong shops to take your car?

Nope the shops in my area are staffed with incompetent mechanics. They make sloppy mistakes, just like you did.

Originally posted by thedawg
CAP is a joke.

copy that.

Missed the clue train there. I should have picked that up from my own post...

For those who want to know:
CAP = Consumer Assistance Program
from the:
BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repairs) of the Department of Consumer Affairs

By the way, the vehicle buy-back amount for 1996-99 cars is $1500.

ok, a few things:

1.)

Originally posted by Star Turbo TalonNow if your running rich to the point where the ignition system cannot burn the mixture completely, you are going to get a similer result of unburnt fuel released into the exhaust. Wouldnt these to conditions result in similer numbers? Turby exactly how are the two different and why would the HC only be out of spec for ignition only?

The short answer to that is no, the gasses most commonly associated with a RICH condition, are high HC's and CO. In and of themselves, like in Juan's case, they arent very good indicators of a rich condition. When the fuel system is suspect, CO will be present...plain and simple.

In Juan's case, HC's stand alone. Pointing to an incomplete burn of an operating fuel system.

2.) DO NOT change the catalytic converter thinking its going to do anything super magical for you. NOx failure readings would point to a catalyst problem, high HC's only do not.


3. burning oil will NOT raise any of the 5 gasses significantly enough to cause it to fail smog. ive run hundreds of cars on the smog dyno and never see anything enough to fail a car even if its smoking bloody hell. by all means though, if you think burning oil changes any of the gasses enough to fail, prove it.

Juan, take care of that ignition system. In my professional opinion, you need to get acces to a lab scope and read each cylinders secondary firing voltages. if you notice any hash at all, and depending on where and what cylinder....it will point you straight to your problem.

cliffnotes: use a lab scope for secondary firing voltage, 4 channels overlapping and good waveforms to look off. very deadly tool.

What I am looking for Josh is "Why". Your explaining rules to follow as a guide which is good to know but why or what makes them true. Perhaps we are going into the Chemical reaction aspect of it and niether of us are chemists but that was what i was looking for.

Terry

2.)

DO NOT change the catalytic converter thinking its going to do anything super magical for you. NOx failure readings would point to a catalyst problem, high HC's only do not.

yeah, I'm holding off on it till the main problem is identified and resolved. Every little bit helps, right?


3.

...get acces to a lab scope and read each cylinders secondary firing voltages. if you notice any hash at all, and depending on where and what cylinder....it will point you straight to your problem.

cliffnotes: use a lab scope for secondary firing voltage, 4 channels overlapping and good waveforms to look off.

any recommendations on good places to get that diagnostic done? Dealer or other?

juan

well here's some basics I've learned over the years and nope I haven't gotten my eclipse to pass smog for a couple years now after the first rebuild it was failing by a little and after a couple thousand miles after it became a gross polluter and I couldnt' figure it out so on to the 2nd rebuild and well that's where I am now.

High HC = Incomplete combustion (plugs, wires, Coil, lo compression, CAT etc...)
High CO = Rich Mixture (ECU, AF ratio, coolant temp sensor, O2 Sensor, CAT)
NOx = Lean Mixture (EGR, AF ratio, ECU, Coolant Temp)

CO2 = Catalytic Converter Efficiancy (14% CO2 is usually a good cat)

Usually if your not passing CO or HC they'll tell you to change your O2 sensor and then your cat. Then for NOx failure they'll usually tell you to clean your EGR out, I've never failed NOx I think.

as for oil burning my engine burned a lot of it could seriously tell when i tore that engine apart. I don't know if it caused my HC to fail because it was a little high but it can foul your sensors and well bad sensors means bad tuning.

My turbo Z was rediculous rich the CO was way high. The way i got it to pass was to one thing fix my O2 sensor but I think the main reason was that it was running too cold so I adjust the fan to kick in at a higher temp.

For some reason Eclipses tend to be high on the CO. Even my neon passed but the numbers weren't awesome. So the 420A seems to suffer from this problem. Can try using ethanol or acetone :P i actually tried the ethanol thing when i was a gross polluter already and it didn't help at all just made my car stumble a lot.

right on hades, explained it perfectly. I really liked what you said here:

"as for oil burning my engine burned a lot of it could seriously tell when i tore that engine apart. I don't know if it caused my HC to fail because it was a little high but it can foul your sensors and well bad sensors means bad tuning."

exactly.

I'll post some charts I have and some good numbers to compare

edit: Juan, the dealership should have scopes. now, do they have people that can read them effectively? guess that all depends on the place. worth a shot, for the diagnostics anyway. get them to print out the firing lines (most can do that no problem) and post them here or something

Damn, thanks for the warning Dan. Was gonna do that CAP route thing but decided not too. I wonder what to do now though with my CEL 31 and my upcoming Test Only smog check coming up. Can I go the "underground" route with the test only thing?

200 197 202 200 (~1350fasl)

thanks Kaiser for your help and use of your compression gauge.
(Enjoy your "new" legacy-of-Mutiny" HKS intake filter!)


Turns out I ordered the wrong O2 sensor (needed 234-4003, got 234-4076). Will have to get the right one shipped out now.

Oh, and would you suppose a sensor that looks like this could be a contributing factor?





Kaiser thinks it may have something to do with it... ;)

(BTW I think I remember how it got that way. Remember when I said that I had a problem before when the threads in the original bung got munched and I had to have that new one so expertly welded in? Well, I now recall that the sensor I had at the time got cross-threaded and was tightened in only as best I could by hand. It blew out one time when I was cruising on the freeway, and was bouncing along the pavement at about 80mph till I pulled off at the next offramp to jam it back in. That was like 6 or 7 years ago!)

I'd say that a bad EGR valve is the cause of your problems, you may also look into adding windsheild washer fluid to your fuel as it will help to clean the a/f charge. I used to be a mechanic :P

Compression actually looks good for a car that has been beaten ever so often. Plus we let the motor cool down a bit, and crank 7 times before taking 3 readings per cylinder.

I'm glad we pulled the O2 to inspect. That weld job on the DP looked like a nasty Basal Cell carcinoma of the ear lobe. We might have to go look for a junk yard pipe, or rethread it. Anyone know the thread pitch off hand?

Another weird factor we came across was oil leaks. Some coming out of the cam position sensor, some out of the oil sender (sender was wet, while block above it was dry), and some out of the spark plug gasket as indicated by the oily plugs.

Looks like we may have a 2gnt day at Juan's place in the next few weeks. First we have to collect the parts.

The O2 Juan purchased looks like it is for a 97+ (grey stumpy connector), or for a GST (as they are longer by nature). I recommended ordering a NTK replacement with the part number imprinted on the sensor.


NGK OE identical O2 sensor 23023 FRONT
$44.85

NGK OE identical O2 sensor 23020 REAR
$65.85

Results from the latest test report:

	
1) Primary & Secondary ignition systems:
     - 8-10kV @ idle
     - 15kV @ 1500-2400 rpm
     - Spark plug under load

2) EGR valve functional but not working correctly:
     - engine will stumble but valve is stuck open.
     - vavuum hose to valve is swollen and loose.

3) check fuel supply at idle and cruise:  

              HC ppm   CO%    CO2%   O2%   NOx
     Idle     107      0.02   15.0   0.0   0
     Cruise    29      0.05   14.9   0.0   2


4) I didn't get down the exact numbers, but they said something to the effect of:
     - "temps from the cat were in the 200's, but should be in the 400s"

The recommendations were:
- replace cat
- fix EGR


Note that the place did not have a scope. They said that theirs broke a while back and that they were not able to replace the components from the manufacturer.

juan

So we are back to my initial recommendation... Just let me know when you need a hand. I know my schedule is rather hectic this coming week, but I'm sure I can sneek 20-30 minutes (yeah right, more like 3 hours) to unbolt, and clean parts.

The Legacy HKS filter foam element straight up fell apart when I soaked it in mild soap solution. I need to order a new one. Is it 150 mm or 200mm?

I'm thinkin that if the problem is with the cat convertor, then I might should just get a new one (I'll need to return your loaner sometime, Kaiser).

I would prefer a bolt-up instead of a muffler shop hack up, so where is a good place to order from? I only found the following:

DEC          #MIT2493  ~$157
Pacesetter   #801301   ~$162

And the following for a non-boltup:

Magnaflow    #91004     ~$35

Any other suggestions/links? Any estimates on fab up cost would be appreciated too.

Hey Juan,

Try roadrace engineering for the cat. The 2gnt and gst cat are the same. I bought a 3 inch cat from them for 150 ant it already had all the brackets,ground strap bolt and flanges welded on. I am not sure if they have stock size replacements, but give them a call, they may have it in stock.

Lates
James

It seems that the p/n for the 95-96.5 Denso front O2 sensor is incorrectly reported on the oxygensensors.com site, which lists it as "234-4026".

The Denso site itself reports it as "234-4003". The sparkplugs.com site lists the '003 as well.

The '026 one is for the turbos.

juan

Yeah Turby and I discussed this a while back... http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=72437&mode=full

I'm pretty sure the -026 actually does fit my 95 federal MTX 2gnt, but now I'mma have to go home and look. I've hacked so many o2 connections doing trial-and-error between my DSMs that its all a blur now.

Really though, all you have to match up is the plastic connector. The sensors are all the same specs, wiring, and threadpitch. The metal sensor bodies have different vent holes but they dont seem to matter.

I think the confusion lies partly in the fact they're going by model year (96.5) instead of chassis build date (6/94). But that's all part of the fun of owning a 1995 DSM.

So they had a 95 I4 Sebring at a local yard.

- First of all, pulling parts in 100+F temps is probably not a good idea for this Canadian boy...felt I was gonna pass out from heatstroke yesterday after only a couple hours.

- couldn't use the downpipe, which was convieniently sitting in the back seat. They had partially cut it, but left the cat untouched. Effers.

- took the timing belt access port cover from it, since I lost mine ages ago. The AEM cam gears raised some red flags at the place I had it smog tested last, so this will help mitigate that threat.

- even though I thought I had all the tools I'd need, I didn't. I was trying to score some other parts, but the lack of a 13mm deep well socket complicated things. Next time, I'll check my kit for full range of sockets from 9mm on up, short and deep well. The magnetic parts-tray I just got for $2 at Harbour Freight day before was particularly handy, along with the offset wrench set.


I don't have time to mess about with this anymore, so I just ordered a new downpipe (Bosal H2000-59895 - hope its good).
(BTW, another supplier gave a quick response, Billy at B&B Auto Parts http://www.bbautoparts.com in NYC. I ended up going with a different vendor for a slightly different version of the part, though.)


Ordered a gasket set from PartsDinosaur to help address some of the leaking oil issues that are also going on.


And so the saga continues...
juan

so instead of ordering a new coil pack, I thought I'd just try to use the spare-but-wrong-type Delco one I have lying about in my parts stash. It has the 96.5-99 flat-style connectors, whereas my car has has the 95-96.4 round connectors. The other coil pack has the wiring connector for it, but I am unwilling to hack off the stock connector from the harness to get it together.

Any suggestions on the best way to hook it up to the 96 round-stle harness connector? Maybe those standard bullet-type electrical connectors from the auto parts stores would be ok if I can seal it up enough? At least for a little while...


So, the spare coil pack I have is the flat style, but my car has the round style:
flat: round:

If I could find one, a pre-manufactured part would be something like this:


but it'll be over $25 by time s&h & tax is added. I may as well just spend a little more and get a whole new MSD/ScreaminDemon coil of the right version instead of mucking about with the Napa/Delco part.

juan

I've got one from my 95 parts car. It's painted blue, but it should do the job if you're interested.

Has anyone tried to do an emissions test with a wideband hooked to the stock ECU? Some widebands let you change the lambda value assoicated with ~.5 volts on a narrowband output. That way you could hit 14.8:1, 14.9 15.0:1, etc... the fuel trims may be off a tad but maybe it would help :shrug

Finally got the car to pass smog!

These are the changes since the last report
- put a hose clamp on the breather hose (it was a little loose).
- changed the oil.
- installed stock range Champion plugs, gapped 0.048".
- installed new downpipe.
- new o2 sensor.
- Kaiser's cat con.

Original Test results:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____|
M1 15mph | 1861 | 14.7 | 0.2  | 117 (9/56) | 0.17 (0.02/0.51) | 67 (57/443) |
M2 25mph | 1890 | 14.6 | 0.2  | _89 (7/40) | 0.13 (0.03/0.49) | 84 (50/730) |

Latest test results:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____|
M1 15mph | 2836 | 14.7 | 0.06 |  21 (9/56) | 0.03 (0.02/0.51) | 86 (57/443) |
M2 25mph | 2906 | 14.6 | 0.04 |   9 (7/40) | 0.01 (0.03/0.49) | 89 (50/730) |

(note that the latest test was done 1000rpm higher than the original. Interesting.)


The new sensor is probably what had the greatest impact. My stock cat did not look particularly bad, but Kaiser's loaner had some 40k less miles on it, and so definitely helped.

The car is running pretty smooth now, too. It starts almost instantly (with the newer Optima), runs smoother, and I haven't noticed the small hesitatations when accelerating as much.


Thanks to all who responded, and especially to big K for coming by and helping wrench.

Till 2 years from now... ;)
juan

Congratulations! Here's to another two years of hiding from the SmoGestapo and hoping for the best :cheers

Yippie - car passed again without having to really do much!

Only the things I did were:
- ran a can of CRC Guaranteed to Pass through it. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05063
- new air filter
- new NGK BKR-6 spark plugs (out of the box gap)

2008 pass:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____|
M1 15mph | 1834 | 15.1 | 0.0  |  39 (9/56) | 0.05 (0.02/0.51) | 147 (57/443)|
M2 25mph | 2946 | 15.0 | 0.0  |  25 (7/40) | 0.06 (0.03/0.49) | 452 (50/730)|

2006 pass:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____|
M1 15mph | 2836 | 14.7 | 0.06 |  21 (9/56) | 0.03 (0.02/0.51) | 86 (57/443) |
M2 25mph | 2906 | 14.6 | 0.04 |   9 (7/40) | 0.01 (0.03/0.49) | 89 (50/730) |

2006 fail:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____|
M1 15mph | 1861 | 14.7 | 0.2  | 117 (9/56) | 0.17 (0.02/0.51) | 67 (57/443) |
M2 25mph | 1890 | 14.6 | 0.2  |  89 (7/40) | 0.13 (0.03/0.49) | 84 (50/730) |

Originally posted by juan
Yippie - car passed again without having to really do much! Only the things I did were: - ran a can of CRC Guaranteed to Pass through it. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05063 - new air filter - new NGK BKR-6 spark plugs (out of the box gap) 2008 pass:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____| M1 15mph | 1834 | 15.1 | 0.0  |  39 (9/56) | 0.05 (0.02/0.51) | 147 (57/443)| M2 25mph | 2946 | 15.0 | 0.0  |  25 (7/40) | 0.06 (0.03/0.49) | 452 (50/730)|

2006 pass:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____| M1 15mph | 2836 | 14.7 | 0.06 |  21 (9/56) | 0.03 (0.02/0.51) | 86 (57/443) | M2 25mph | 2906 | 14.6 | 0.04 |   9 (7/40) | 0.01 (0.03/0.49) | 89 (50/730) |

2006 fail:

_________|_rpm__|_%CO2_|_%O2__|_HC (ppm)___|_CO (%)___________|_NO (ppm)____| M1 15mph | 1861 | 14.7 | 0.2  | 117 (9/56) | 0.17 (0.02/0.51) | 67 (57/443) | M2 25mph | 1890 | 14.6 | 0.2  |  89 (7/40) | 0.13 (0.03/0.49) | 84 (50/730) |

Thanks for add the url: for CRC.

CRC Freeze OFF from watching their Demo, seems to be better than PB Blast, I might pickup can and see how it does.