Alright guys i think i finally got all my financial troubles with my bank done with. those rip off Fu8k3rs . sorry anyway i would really no if anyone else has got good ideas on this build.

Ok as of right now.

Head
431-0012 Intake cam, and the 431-0014 Exhaust cam
Crane valv springs
head with a 3 angle valve job
pt 2.4 Lifters, rockers


Block
Mopar Rod Bearing Set (Acl Maybe?)
Mopar Main Bearing Set (acl maybe?)
JE Piston Rings
Oil Pan Gasket Set (includes rear main seal)
Oil Pump
Eagle Specialty Forged Rods (H beams)
JE Pistons 8.8-1 std bore.


Turbo
16g, Garret t3/t4
Cast iron manifold

Also i am doing a auto-5SPD swap on this.
I got a spec pressure plate and flywheel.

its a full project.

If you have great ideas or even your .02 help a fellow 2gnr out instead of bashing. im a newb ill admit. but im working on it very hard.

I need help on my build
(Including fuel/Computer/suspension/Anything else i forgot i know walbro 255lph. Injectors, Intk mani, any oil,vaccumm lines. ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO SAFELY DRIVE THIS CAR AGAIN -.- I miss it guys. Please help me reunite me with my love.


Also thinking on
a/c deleting and moving battery,Fuse box,Comp

I don't know why you would want a standard bore. Most of the blocks have cylinders that have been worn to a larger diameter over time. That is one reason people go .20 over.

yea, i agree w/ the .20 over. other than that, it sounds like you're doing the same exact project I just finished with. you'll love it, it'll be worth it. i have a clutchmasters stage IV though. Make sure your flywheel isn't glazed so the clutch won't slip any. also, get the mopar nvt-350 fluid from your local dodge dealership. 2 quarts.

Originally posted by mreigle
I don't know why you would want a standard bore. Most of the blocks have cylinders that have been worn to a larger diameter over time. That is one reason people go .20 over.

I measured mine out after the shop told me it was stock bore. but from what i hear the cylinders and the pistons can have some room between each other so when boost hits it expands the rings. (that or blows rings out) - (one or the other) I Dont know i might go back and get that .20 over. Wouldn't it be more stable under stock bore?

When you have it bored your sure you get a good sealing surface for your pistons and rings. It evens out the cylinder. Plus it gives us hella more displacement yo!

ok well any ideas. on Injectors And ECU/FCD/Or SAFC OR FMU? i need a fuel/ Computer lesson for this. -.- so complicated. Also i was lookin for a guide on how to relocate your comp/fuz box/battery. Let me know guys. Also Are the Front and rear bumper from a 97-99 a hard switch to a 95-96

judging on your setup, megasquirt n' spark will be best. judging on your lack of knowledge of what's available and/or familiarity on what's best for this type of 'build' and that you think it's 'complicated', i'd do portfueler and call it a day.

Originally posted by 1996BlackGSntAlso Are the Front and rear bumper from a 97-99 a hard switch to a 95-96

no

I did not think so i thought they were just about interchangeable.

portfueler ftw

hah

Plan on having the car dyno tuned and from what it sounds like your better off with a portfueler from hahn.

The Megasquirt is what most guys go with but it requires you to have a decent knowledge on tuning. If you go through a dyno shop then MEgasquirt would not be a terrible idea for you and give you more flexibility.

Why do you want to Mix the cams? Most guys have had the best luck with Crower stage 2 N/A cams. the Turbo cams dont perform as well.

got a great deal on them. they were 160. anyway i haven't really red up on any fuel or management system but if you could get me a link or maybe a good summary ill be happy. thanks guys

Good deals have negative side effects. You might have got them because they suck...lol

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Good deals have negative side effects. You might have got them because they suck...lol

Not very likely. Anyway i got them of a friend who ordered them for his car new 430$ But he totaled the car shortly after that.

Why did he mix them?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Why did he mix them?

Looks like he got the more aggressive exhaust cam. I'm not 100% on this subject, but perhaps the idea was to increase exhaust gas volume across the turbine for spool up? (As opposed to a more aggressive intake cam, which I suspect might facilitate charge volume.) :shrug

Originally posted by DR1665

Looks like he got the more aggressive exhaust cam. I'm not 100% on this subject, but perhaps the idea was to increase exhaust gas volume across the turbine for spool up? (As opposed to a more aggressive intake cam, which I suspect might facilitate charge volume.) :shrug



431-0012 Nitrous profile for street/strip. Use low restriction intake/exhaust. Good power on or off bottle. Use Crane Cams nitrous controller Pt. No. 6000-9816 for max control. RPM range idle-6,800

431-0014 Features our unique ?split duration? lobe profile design (exhaust duration is less than intake duration). ?Spools? turbo faster for quicker boost and response. Reduces turbo lag time. Strong upper mid to top end with turbo. For max power use intercooler and low restriction intake/exhaust. RPM range 1,500-6,800


Thats the best i can give you. I will also cite this info: Modern performance racing (http://www.modernperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=230_235&products_id=1628&osCsid=a4c1204c4182634d785f77fd47c6c799)

Originally posted by 1996BlackGSnt
431-0012
431-0014

Yeah. That's kinda what I was getting at. I could tell they're Crane Cams by the part numbers. We usually just call them "Crane XXs" where the XX is the last two digits of the part number. So I took your post to read that you had a Crane 12 intake and Crane 14 exhaust.

The general consensus here is that "stage 1" cams like the Crane 10s or Crower 1s provide such negligible gains that they aren't really worth it. Marketing jargon aside, the Crane 12 and Crower 2 grinds are about as aggressive as you probably want to go on a daily driver. Crane's 14s were designed for the turbo cars. I guess it's possible that a set of Crane 14s is just a special spec exhaust cam with a 12 intake cam. Dunno.

Get that thing together and on a dyno so you can tell us how the set up plays out for you.

Def go with acl duraglides.

Damn good bearings!

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Def go with acl duraglides. Damn good bearings!

And why exactly are the better than the rest of the bearings on the market?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS Def go with acl duraglides. Damn good bearings!

And why exactly are the better than the rest of the bearings on the market?

:scratch actually i was wondering the same but i found them just as cheap as mopar. But mopar is oem.

I am asking because this member cant even tell you why you should buy them. (without copying the manufacturur sales pitch)


Go with something tried and true. factory Mopar or a Clevite 77 bearing.

Does ACL have a bad rep or something?

Originally posted by daes_venge
Does ACL have a bad rep or something?

not sure but my machinist recommends clevite 77 bearings... and i trust this guy quite a bit.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by 1996BlackGSnt 431-0012 431-0014

Yeah. That's kinda what I was getting at. I could tell they're Crane Cams by the part numbers. We usually just call them "Crane XXs" where the XX is the last two digits of the part number. So I took your post to read that you had a Crane 12 intake and Crane 14 exhaust. The general consensus here is that "stage 1" cams like the Crane 10s or Crower 1s provide such negligible gains that they aren't really worth it. Marketing jargon aside, the Crane 12 and Crower 2 grinds are about as aggressive as you probably want to go on a daily driver. Crane's 14s were designed for the turbo cars. I guess it's possible that a set of Crane 14s is just a special spec exhaust cam with a 12 intake cam. Dunno. Get that thing together and on a dyno so you can tell us how the set up plays out for you.

Im working on it now. damn the longest shipping i have ever seen but i gotta get my "no questions asked" turbo kit pieced together. I am still trying to finalize that i have been really thinking about getting a star kit. but i heard most times its easier and cheaper to build your own kit.

Originally posted by 1996BlackGSnt
most times its cheaper to build your own

not easier. premade kits are much easier because everything is there to do the job right the first time. you don't have to scrounge up all the parts to do it right and then find out you missed something or miscalculated something else. you just buy the kit, bolt it on and go faster. you do pay a premium for the ease though and you don't learn nearly as much.

building your own setup is an amazing learning process and will make you a better car owner if you take the time to do it right, but understand that you will run into setbacks and aggrivations along the way. the best part is the feeling of accomplishment when it's all done and running (and having some wrenching scars to brag about)

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
building your own setup is an amazing learning process and will make you a better car owner if you take the time to do it right, but understand that you will run into setbacks and aggrivations along the way. the best part is the feeling of accomplishment when it's all done and running (and having some wrenching scars to brag about)

For all the money you pay for med school, you'd think they'd teach you about capitalization at some point. (Sigh) ;) Then again, you probably posted this with one hand while removing some schlub's spleen with the other, so...

ez hits the nail on the head with this one. Even if you don't do it 100% right, it's only a 400% increase in said pain and aggravation, and that means you get, like, 500% of the recommended daily allowance of experience and understanding. Packed full of win!

In all seriousness, there are two life changing events for a car guy. Think of them as a sort of "level up" if you want. The first is when you pay off the car. The second is the first time the engine that you built comes to life. Those are the best.

Good luck with the project. If you see Captain Halfass around your garage, kick him in the nuts and tell him to GTFO.

Originally posted by DR1665
If you see Captain Halfass around your garage, kick him in the nuts and tell him to GTFO.

:thumbsup :cheers lol

What's the update on this? How did everything work out for you?

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G building your own setup is an amazing learning process and will make you a better car owner if you take the time to do it right, but understand that you will run into setbacks and aggrivations along the way. the best part is the feeling of accomplishment when it's all done and running (and having some wrenching scars to brag about)

For all the money you pay for med school, you'd think they'd teach you about capitalization at some point. (Sigh) ;) Then again, you probably posted this with one hand while removing some schlub's spleen with the other, so... ez hits the nail on the head with this one.

Wow, I just realized that DR1665 mixed me up with EZ, LOL. Yes, we're both Erik's and we both spell our names with K, but yeesh. You'd think RoninEclipse2G and EZ would be a noticable difference