My 95 GS has been acting up on me recently. Its hard to describe it so I will just go on about what happens.

My CEL had come on for my EGR solenoid being bad. I fixed it, but the code stayed on, as it should until you unhook the battery. The problem is with RANDOM power loss. For instance, I start my car up an hour ago, after a long rain. It idles for about a minute. The CEL is still on. All the sudden, it shuts off like I turned the key. After it stalls you can hear the fuel pump prime. I start it back up, this time it starts. The CEL is gone. But the car drives like it needs to relearn the fuel trims.

20 Minutes later, 60 MPH down the road. The car is driving fine, and all the sudden it falls flat on its face, stalling, throwing me into the steering wheel, making a "Brrrrrrr" sound, like bogging down. It does that for maybe 2 seconds at the most, then its driving again.

Sometimes after it stalls, Im not so lucky with the starting and it does this...http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z233/740_Turbo_Brick/?action=view¤;t=stall.flv

The only way to get it to run is to hold the gas down for about a minute. Let off any time before that and it will stall.

Please guys, whats goin on with my car? Sound like an ECU problem? Or maybe a sensor of some sort? Also, I mentioned the part about "after a long rain" because, it seems to me the only times this has happened is after it has rained.

I apologize about the horrible sentence structure, but bear with me here. Its hard to try to explain something like this through text.

Water amplifies electrical problems.

Start with checking the wire harness that follows the egr tube. Since you did recent work in that area MAYBE the loom got pushed onto the egr tube for the infamous meltdown problem.

It sounds more like you are getting total electrical power loss. Start with checking battery cable connections. Don't just try to wiggle them, undo/unbolt, check/clean connections and then reconnect.

I would start there.

MB

Ok Ive been checking wiring and such but nothing so far. Is it possible if there was a bad ground, such as the negative to the chassis from the battery, that it could cause some problems? Its sort of corroded. I plan on unbolting it, wire brushing, and applying dielectric grease to it.

Also, how in the blue hell do you remove the ECU? I messed with it for a while trying to get it out. Theres an 8mm bolt on the end that seems to do nothing, and I couldnt get the connector out to save my life.

Just replace the ground, Mitsu really cheaped out on the quality of the copper wiring in our battery cables. I rewired mine with some audio grade 4ga wire I had left over from some stereo installs. rewired the alt and starter too. The car cranked over so fast it actually scared me.

as for the ECU removal I think i had to remove the whole bracket that it sits in to get it out of the car. there was one bold that was impossible to get to with everything still in the car. the harness has a retaining bolt (I don't remember if it was 8 or 10mm) and once you remove that it just takes a good ammount of pulling and wiggeling.

I spent today taking all the important electrical connections off and sanding/dielectric greasing them. Battery, grounds, starter, alternator. It actually started ALOT quicker. I would say it cranked 50% faster than before. I will wait it out and see if I have a problem again, hopefully I dont.

Hmm...still problems. Im 90% certain its the ECU, but I cant get it out to test my other one, so Im back with questions..

The CEL #12...its supposed to go away after 50 key on/off cycles right? Because everytime I do the keydance its always there.

Im planning on getting this ECU and my new one tested at the dealer 50 miles away. Will they charge to test it? And can they either test the current one without removing it, or remove and test it also without charging, or charging me very little?

When I had a Neon ECU tested at the dealer, it was 90ish.

Not sure if they took it out or not, it was still in the car and I left. I had the ECU replaced there, partly due to the fact that I talked the parts guy down on a Mopar PCM, they didnt charge me anything to reflash the new PCM with my info.

So id plan on 100 to be on the safe side.

BTW - your issues sound kinda like what my Neon was doing. Except sometimes mine wouldnt turn back on.

My Jeep had that same freeway problem. I replaced the cables-no help. Turned out to be an intermitant short in the alternator. One of those damn "only sometimes" problems. Good luck.

Im pretty sure its not the alternator because I actually changed them and its still doing the same thing. The only difference is the old one was putting out 10 volts and this one is now at 14.

Thanks for the heads up though, Ill probably call my dealer tomarrow and see about a trip up there. Id rather not spend any more money because of christmas, but Im on the verge of getting stranded places.

That was when I said screw it and took it to the dealer. It stalled at stop lights, on the highway, and at that time sometimes it would start again, sometimes it was a waiting game.