Any trick to removing them from stock manifold without them breaking? Any tips? I have access to the slotted sockets. I was thinking about swapping the front and rear as I believe the upstream one is very slow reacting.

Also has anyone ever heard their ecu whining in a high pitch after turning off the car? I have a '95, and this is when it's testing the o2 sensors.

-George

Use a LOT of rust buster. Just make sure the upstream and downstream O2s are the same. Before you go through the hastle.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5 (need tires)

Problem with using products like WD40 on the .o2 sensor is if it isn't already toast, it will be.

Michelle
96 Eclipse Base Model
Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot

???? Insert best Tim Allen grunt of confusion???

What does rust buster do to the O2 sensor? I've never heard of anybody toasting their O2 with rust buster. If you know something let me in on it. When I install a header I want to know if I should stay away from it or not. Thanks Michelle

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5 (need tires)

make sure the manifold is warm (not too hot where it will burn you, but onthe warm side) before removing the o2 sensor, this will make it easier and should help prevent you from chewing up the threads in the manifold nd on the sensor.

and the computers make the high pitch whine just from cooling off or operating, it's norml and nothing to worry about :)

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.803 @ 86.48 MPH

The upstream and downstream sensors may be the same (I'm not sure), but I'm almost positive the connectors are not. So, you'll have to cut and solder.

Using penetrating oil (WD 40 is not a true penetrating oil as Liquid Wrench is) will NOT harm the O2 sensors. Make sure you spray them good before you try. Yes, a WARM engine helps. Sometimes using a 7/8" wrench works easier then the Socket that was made for it. Always remember when pushing on a wrench or a socket wrench handle hard, keep your hands OPEN and NOT WRAPPED around the wrench. If the wrench slips or breaks loose, your KNUCKLES are NOT BUSTED. :)
GOOD LUCK

Here's my plug...

Buy mechanics gloves. They are the best thing I have bought since I started working on cars. You don't slice open you knuckles when a wrench slips, you are insulated if working on a hot or semi hot engine form the heat. And clean up afterwards is so much easier and when you go on a date you don't have grease ground into your hand that won't come out no matter how hard you scrub. And you don't look like a slob.

End of commercial.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5 (need tires)

You know, I was going to replace my o2's last week when I discovered that almost no stores had them in stock. I was quoted $125 for a universal one, but I was skeptical. Did you get yours at a dealership? How much did you pay? I desperately need to change mine.

"Using penetrating oil (WD 40 is not a true penetrating oil as Liquid Wrench is) will NOT harm the O2 sensors."

I speak from experience, did a turbo swap on the AWD, sprayed it down good, got it out nice, but toast when I put it back in. Did the same thing to the o2 on our N/T in fact twice (don't ask.) If it wasn't the WD40 I couldn't tell you what it was wires weren't screwed up or anything. Antifreeze or oil will do the same thing (tossed a second o2 during the turbo swap this way, soaked it :( ).

As for getting them cheaper, use the DSM discount at like Tallahasse Mitsu and a few others, thats what it is for, not just for the turbo people!

Michelle
96 Eclipse Base Model
Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot

The OEM o2 sensor (upstream) is about 120 from Norco mitsu. Just email Paul and ask for club dsm discount - email is mitsparts@pe.net

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://importdeals.homestead.com
Import Parts and Performance

Thanks for all the tips. They were all helpfull.

As far as the computer whining, I can't believe I didn't hear that before if it is normal. Plus, it only does it when the engine bay is really hot like after a long trip or letting it idle with hood closed for a long time. I know a little about electronics, and to me it makes no sense why any logic device (even a high speed one which this is not really) would squeal unless a capacitor was leaking.

Now, I imagine my dealer will also tell me that this is normal, as they did to Todd, so I ask another favor, can anyone else listen to theirs after shutting the car off so that I have some proof that I'm not crazy?

I was really hoping that a faulty computer would finally be an end to my 4 year battle with satan to fix a decelleration stop-hesitation problem I have.

Thanks in advance,
-George