Today I installed my motor mount inserts, and it was well worth it. I noticed right away that power was being put to the road instead of getting lost somewhere in between. Over all it took me about 2.5 hours. The front was easy, 30 minutes and it was done. The rear is another story. Thanks to you all that suggested them, very nice.

that reminds me, i need to take em out of my room and actually install them.... I havent looked at the rear mount yet but the kit comes with just 2 washers and the inserts, right?

Yep, 2 washers and 4 inserts.



Eric Madden

Do you have to get the front and the rear? I think i read where some people just have one....does it still work as well with just the fronts?

'96 RS
Performance:
AEM CAI
Magnecore Plug Wires
NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
(AFX UDP) Coming Soon

Suspension:
FU,RU Strut Bars
Primax 496 17's w/ 225/45/17 Falken Tires

Looks:
Custom Blue Reverse Lights
Custom Blue Interior Lights
Blue Washer Nozzles
Blue HVAC Lights Conversion (Thanks to Hondahater21)
Indiglo Gauges
Greddy Badge Shifter Knob
Momo Shifter Boot
Metal Race Pedals


"Miles Away From Ordinary!"
-Corona

I put the fronts in and drove it around, I noticed a little bit of difference but not a whole lot. Of course I only drove it around the block. Not to sound cheesy but when I put the rears in the car felt more powerful, it kinda shudders when you start it, and at various points in the RPM band the car has a nice little vibration. Then above 5000 RPMs is when you feel the most vibration, but like I said it feels good.

<Do you have to get the front and the rear?>

If you are using a solid motor mount then, I think, you only need the front.



Eric Madden

I've been driving around for over a week with just the front and noticed very little difference. Gonna do the rear today, finally.

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

I just bought mine...but how and where do you install them????? i was kinda confussed on those points....:D

I installed the front mount this past weekend and will do the rear one, hopefully, this weekend. Here is the write up that Josh gave me, you guys can use it too:

ok i'm bored so here is a write up, tuffrs i bet you can figure this
out but
if others are reading or you need a little extra help, here you go. the
front one is easy, all you need is a socket wrench, and a cresent or
something like that to keep stuff from turning on nut and bolt combos.
i
think the size is somewhere around 10mm, throughout the whole thing the
sizes go from 10-14, so just get out those and your set. look down into
the
engine bay, the front mount is just to the right of center, inbetween
the
headers and the radiator. you can get to it alot better from under the
car,
but i never used jackstands, so you prob wont need them. but if you
have
them it would prob help. first there is a nut and bolt "pin" that goes
through the front motor mount. take that out. that little f--king thing
is
on tight, the only way i got it off was by attaching a socket wrench to
the
right side of it, laying down in front of the car and kicking it off.
you
might have an easier time than i. once its loose take it out the rest
of the
way. now if you look the motor mount is bolted to a main chassis peice
that
runs up under the motor. the bolts come up from then underside of that
chassis peice. you can get to those bolts through two small holes on
the
bottom. you will need an extention, or maybe just a long socket. loosen
those the the whole mount will slide out (make note which way is front
and
back). you may need to wiggle it some but its free. the kit, energy
suspension, comes with a total of 6 peices. 2 washers and 4 molded
plastics
peices. for the front mount you need both washers and the inserts that
are
smaller (i.e. less polyeurethane), push the inserts into the spaces in
the
motor mount and put the washers on either side. put it back in place.
it
will be snugg, but as long as it fit in there without alot of play your
good. put all the bolts and stuff back in. it doesnt matter which you
do
first. i think i put the 2 that hold it to the chassis in first then
the
"set pin". i'm not sure about torque specs but seeing as how i had to
kick
it off i dont thing you are going to hurt anything. i tightend mine up
until
i almost crapped my pants. (you may want to drive it around just in
case,
because if its too rough for you now it will only get worse with the
back
one installed)(or maybe you dont have any patients like me)

now the back one. harder all around, but nothing you cant handle. if
you
have it take out the strutbar. intake, battery, plastic tray and metal
tray
(4 bolts), also take out the washer fluid resovior (haha i cant spell
that),
and i unbolted my brake fluid bucket thing but you prob wont have to do
that. no you can see it. :) stick your head in there with a flashlight
if
need be and look around. the back mount is pretty much under the
throttle
body. this mount is also connected to a chassis member. then there is
the
same type center pin that holds it to a bracket that bolts to either
the
trans or the motor, i dont remeber which. on this mount we arent going
to
take out the mount itself but the bracket that it attached to the motor
(i'm
just going to call it that, if i'm wrong it doesnt matter any way). the
only
thing you have to undo are 4 bolts. the one set pin, and if you look on
the
bracket there are 3 bolts in it. first undo the pin, if you have a
breaker
bar you may want to try that, i didnt have one so it took a little
while so
stop the bleeding:( once you have that off you need to ge the other 3
bolts
out. these are tight as a mofo. so find someone big and tell him to do
it.
if your big then you can skip that step. i'm not big at all but i
managed to
get one of them, my dad got the others. you will need an extender to
get to
these too, but not to long or you will be up into the t/b and intake
man.
get those out. take the bracket out then slip in the 2 remaining
inserts,
one on either side. make sure they are in there. then put the bracket
back
on (this will also be a snugg fit). put the pin in place, but i wouldnt
tighten it just yet. make sure the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the
motor line up, get them started, then tighten everything back up. make
sure
its tight again because once you put all the other stuff back in on top
of
it you wont want to get in there again. put you car back together. and
your
done. *whew* no you can go wipe yourself :)

I used this write up word for word, and my results were perfect!

Aiight, I did the rear one finally, I started at like 10am and was done by 11:15, I don't know how it could take 2-2:30 hours to do like others have told me it would, I guess maybe if you've never been into the engine bay then it might.

Anyway, here's what I did:

1-disconnect battery cables (negative first)
2-remove battery, and battery liner (plastic thing)
3-remove 4 bolts holding battery tray in place
4-remove intake pipe (different ways for different intakes)
5-remove windshield washer reservoir (I just loosened the bolts on mine and push the bottom of the reservoir towards the firewall)

Now you should be able to see the mount looking from the driver side fender. There are 3 bolts on the engine block side of the mount, those are the ones you want to remove (you DO NOT need to remove the entire mount assembly), and 1 going through the mount itself.

6-using 2' worth of extensions remove the 3 bolts on the engine block side of the motor mount

To remove the bolt going through the motor mount you need to place a 9/16 box-end wrench on the nut side of the bolt (left side of the mount when looking from the front of the car), on the bolt side (right side of the mount) use a 9/16 socket and loosen. The box-end wrench will rotate and hit the block; then comes the fun part, if you have a long handled ratchet that would work best, mine didn't fit because the end of it was too big and hit some metal line of some sort, anyway once you break the lock on the bolt it will come out fairly easily. NOTE: the easiest way to get the box-end wrench in there is to look at the mount from the driver side fender and slip it through the hoses and over the other side of the mount, you'll see what I'm talking about when you're in there.

With the 3 mount bolts and the main bolt removed, jimmy the mount up and away from the mount on the frame, then slip in the urethane pieces. Place the block side mount back over the frame side mount, slip the main bolt back through the mount, then the 3 block bolts.

Then reinstall, the intake, battery tray and battery, reconnect cables and your done. Now when you start the car it will probably shudder a little because of the mount, don't give it any gas and let it idle until it's warm, the ECU has been reset and you don't wanna rev the engine or anything.

This is by no means a hard install, just a little time consuming, especially for someone with little mechanical skills, when you're down there you'll need to be able to understand how the mount works and how it needs to come out.

Hope this helps a little.

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

hey toney thanks for putting my write-up on again, my isp has been having some problems so i havent been on in a little while. its nice to know i can accually help people. how come i only have one star :( no i cant beg for them i know. fastergs up there makes me feel good about myself *single tear rolls down my cheek* hahahaha, j/k
-Josh




weapon-r intake
greddy headers
apex-i n1 catback
afx udp
energy suspension
motor mounts
cf altezza tail lights
bored t/b

no problem man, I wish I could give you more than the 2 points I did. I cant wait to install the other mount, I have basically eliminated wheel hop with just the front one. You guys say that adding the second one made a large difference and I want to feel it too.

i was just messing around about the stars, just a status symbol. haha, not that i'm againts them. yea its a noticable diff with the back one on there too. you get to feel you engine hum. its nice. it will however add some rattles. but i never wanted a cushy, leather filled luxury car in the first place.



weapon-r intake
greddy headers
apex-i n1 catback
afx udp
energy suspension
motor mounts
cf altezza tail lights
bored t/b
magnecore wires
hotter plugs

got my motor mount inserts installed, easy as 1-2-3 with air tools :-) did it in 30-45 minutes... but i had my intake manifold already off :-)