I was looking in the EGR pipe (the one that goes from the EGR valve to the intake manifold) and it has all sorts of carbon junk inside it (about half of the inner diameter is carbon wall) and I'm sure it's making/has made my intake gross as hell. Can I remove the EGR solnoid and vaccum lines to the EGR valve to disable the EGR (I'll have to plug the hole in the intake manifold)?

Once that is disabled what should I use to clean out my intake manifold, runners, and throttle body? Carb. cleaner?

P.S. The one good thing about living in Alabama is there are no emission laws.

Most people disable the EGR system by blocking the ports. I think there are some actual plates that you can get somewhere - one to block the head port and one to block the manifold port...but you can also just make them out of a soda can or something like that. Basically, you want to sandwich the plates in there so that the exhaust gas can't flow into the pipe as well as blocking off the manifold port so you don't have extra air going into the pipe.

As far as the solenoids and whatnot. If you remove them you'll get a CEL - for a broken solenoid or something to that effect.

But even if you do leave the solenoid and vac lines hooked up, you'll eventually get a EGR not-enough-flow(or something like that) CEL code. I don't think the 95 models will trigger this particular code, but I'm not 100% sure about that.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

I wish there was a way to rig a resistor to the plug so there wouldn't be a cell. I'll cut up a coke can, thanks.

There is a resistor trick the Neon guys use, but that is not effective 100% of the time. Just reduces the occurance of the code a lot. I have a resistor in mine... don't know if does any good, I haven't checked Jason's datalogger the past couple times I was in town to see. (I removed CEL bulb).

You can get the Mopar EGR block kit listed for The Neon and it will work great. You'll want washers or shorter bolts for the bolts that hold the solenoid into the head, no matter how you block it off.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I used the mopar kit and just bolted the plate in between the selenoid and the block and just took out the piping. I havent got a cell or anything. but then again I'm a 95 :)

i know what you mean about the "gunk" factor. the best way to clean the throttle body/manifold is to remove it all (make sure you get the three gaskets from mits.) and scrub it down by hand. at least remove the TB and do it that way, it only takes 45 minutes or so to do this.

other then that, you can spray some kind of combustion chamber cleaner into the intake/manifold somwhere. it might be hard to start afterwards though, i did this a couple years ago and let the car run, i had all KINDS of black smoke pouring out of the exhaust pipe from all the deposits being evacuated.

BTW...i PMed you.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of the EGR blockoff? Any increase in power? TIA

I cleaner running car running off of fresh cool air and fuel rather than recycling the exhaust. The side effect is the exhaust won't be cleaner, you will fail any emissions if you have them, and doesn't the car take longer to warm up as well?

Where can you get the MOPAR EGR blockoff kit?

howell, it cost around 40 bucks shiped.
it comes with three plates but you only use two.
later
"Z"

Does it come w/ instructions?

Do you leave the solnoid in place?

Once you see the pieces you wont need instructions. You can leave the selenoid in place if you want, I did. or you'll have to get shorter bolts to bolt into the block

I can't find anywhere on the howell site where the EGR removal kit is, I tried searching, looking under 2nd gen neon and 2nd gen eclipse/talon n/t! Where is it ;(

The solnoid makes me mad, I'm going to take it out for sure. Does the kit include a vaccum plug for the EGR solnoid vaccum hose on the intake manifold?

hey im in AL too. we outta meet up and block them off at the same time. My spring break starts March 31. Ive got a whole basement/garage that needs some use. ;)

http://net-impress.com/dsm/mods/egr.html

Cool man, sounds good, I actually just got back from my spring break, but I can do it during the week or weekend when I don't have to work. Where in Alabama are you from? Where can we get the block off plates? I don't think the turbo ones would fit the 2gnt intake manifold.

I'm w/ metaljim on this one... no need to buy anything. just use a pop can (sorry western pa lingo... soda can for the rest of u). cut off the ends and split it so its a rectangle, then take out the stock gasket and trace onto the aluminum can. cut with a pair of scissors or tin shears and u are good to go.

Cool =]

I just traced the EGR gasket onto a piece of Stainless steel about 1/8" thick. Cut it out, drilled holes for the bolts, then got 2 new gaskets and bolted it up. Worked great. Only cost was the new gaskets, i had the metal laying around :) Dont waste your money on a kit. IMO, a pop can may be too thin, but if it works...

Did you actually remove the EGR valve or solnoid? or just put the plates you made over the holes for the recycle line.

I hate having useless sh*t in my car.

I just removed the EGR pipe that goes from the head to the TB. Blocked off the ports with the home made plates. I kept all the wireing plugged in. I get a EGT insufficient flow code every few weeks or so, but thats it for the EGR system. Got rid of the vacuum lines, since you dont need those anymore.

What did you plug the vaccum line holes on the intake manifold with?

>What did you plug the vaccum line holes on the intake
>manifold with?

Well it worked out great for me, since the turbo and its accessories need lots of sources of vacuum :) One free vacuum barb is like striking gold haha. YOu can use a rubber vacuum cap, available at your local auto parts store, like Autozone,ect..

If you make a kit you cut covers for both manifold and head.

And whoever said that you will fail emission, this is not entirely true.

I passed my emissions with it blocked off, on the wonder dyno type rolled emissions test. If you live in CA yes you will have problems, but if you live elsewhere you should be okay.

CA tests for both NOx and COx emissions. Most other (most but I think all) states test only for COx. The EGR is a California emissions device it reduces NOx at the cost of an increase in COx. So actually you should be better off if your state only tests for COx. I had no problems at all passing with the EGR block off in Illinois.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Yeah 95's do throw the no flow code. I went weeks without it throwing a code then It just popped up on my way home from work. Code 32. Oh well I better get used to it. Anyone knoe a link to the resistor trick. TIA

I have heard about this mod since I joined (over a year ago), but I have never seen exactly where the EGR valve is. Can somebody post a pic? TIA.

Well if it's going to throw a code then shouldn't I just take the whole system out, including the actuall EGR valve, and then just make a plate of 1/8" steel to replace it? (and the plate to cover the intake manifold)

Standing in front of yoru car. The EGR starts at the right side of the cylinder head, under your exhaust cam and cam position sensor, and a metal tube run back to the back side of the intake manifold. There is a vaccum line running to the EGR solenoid, from the manifold.

If you take your intake tube off, you'll be able to get a good look at the EGR system and it's routing.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Thanks Michael. I thought I might have seen it when I was putting on my intake, but I wasn't sure.

What's the deal with people saying you need shorter bolts for something?

I want to take the whore off.

will the CEL when taking out the EGR give me just the code for running with out a EGR? or will I get a code that will put the car in saftey mode?

I'm wondering as well. The thing has got to go.

>will the CEL when taking out the EGR give me just the code
>for running with out a EGR? or will I get a code that will put
>the car in saftey mode?


No it'll just let you know pretty much that the egr isnt connected. It wont put your car in limp home mode or anything.

I'm just going to take out my CEL light. Unless someone knows a way to wire a resistor to this mug to trick it. I know there is a write up for the downstream o2 sensor removal (for when you put in a testpipe) and if there is no way known how to trick the egr check then don't you agree with me that I should just remove my cell? It's not like it tells you that your car is about to break, it only tells you when your car is broken.

The shorter bolts are needed on the plate that blocks off the head, if you remove all teh hardware. If you somply put the block off plates in between the solenoid and the head you don't. But if you remove it all then the bolts at the head are too long. You need to either get shorter bolts or use washers to take up the thickness rmeoved when the solenoid is gone.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I'll get me some shorter bolts then, thanks Michael.

I took my egr system out and just left the EGR solenoid hooked up to the metal thing that usually bolts to the cylinder head and tucked it near the battery.

No CEL's for a LONG time.....

I'm a 97 chrys sebring I4
_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

I blocked off my EGR Saturday, I used a soda can for the intake manifold input, cut it the same size as the gasket, and bolted it on (w/ the gasket).

As for on the head, I cut a 1/8" peice of steel w/ a welder and grinded it smooth, the size of the EGR valve gasket (where the EGR valve bolts onto the head, not the EGR transfer pipe). I bored the holes into place and went shopping for the metric 20mm x 1.25 (course metric) bolts, the closest I could find to the size (I was looking for 1-1/4") I needed was Grade 10, 1" locking (built in washer) bolts w/ a 13 mm head.

So basically, I bolted on the plate w/ the gasket (which has that indented center section) w/ grade 10 bolts w/ 2/3 thread contact as the ones that are orginally in there. Part of the gasket is sticking out on the sides on the lower corner (where it looks like the stem of a mushroom) because I cut it a little shorter there. I torqued the bolts on w/ the gasket underneith the metal plate to 30lbs/ft.

Now my problem is I'm getting a high pitch rattle from 5500 rpm and up. I can't tell if it's the plate rattling or the gasket rattling. The gasket is metal but it seems to thin to make a noticable rattle, especially since it has only like 3 mm of run out on those corners mentioned above.

So I don't know what I need to do, I could torque the bolts down more (they are grade 10 but the block is aluminum and I don't know how much torque the aluminum head can take), I could cut that part of the gasket off so it matches the plate perfectly, or I could get some copper head gasket sealant and put it on both sides of the gasket.

Can someone let me know what I should do?

hey. im in jasper(45 miles N of B'ham)if u wanna get together. i need to block mine off too. im gonna use a few "coke" cans. i found this write up: http://net-impress.com/dsm/mods/egr.html im gonna try to go by it. im getting the "EGR vavle flow insufficient" CEL if i remember correctly. oh yea, where in AL are you from?

I'm in Madison (1 st. away from Hunstville), so we are pretty close.

It's a good chance there is so much carbon buildup your get an insuffencient flow, either that or your EGR valve and/or solnoid are dead.

I took out my CEL.