remove the lil rubber nipple on the adjustment screw of the slave cylinder.
let it all the way out, letting fluid drain or get air out.

Go in car...wedge a tire iron or something between the seat and the clutch all the way down to the floor.

Now, go back under the car and tighten the bleeder screw.

Fill resovioir up all the way with DOT3 clutch (or brake fluid will work as well).


Go back in car, let tire iron/wedge off clutch and push seat back.

Push clutch in, then out a few times like that.

Now, depress clutch down to floor as far as it will go , once again, wedge the tire iron/wedge in between the seat and clutch, scooting the seat all the way up as far as it will go.

Go back under car, loosen screw, more fluid will squirt out. Now tighten it back up as tight as you can turn.

Fill resovior back up to top level. Close top of resovior tightly

Go back in car and remove wedge, push clutch in and out a few times.


Start car, repeat with clutch in and out to the floor

Turn car off.

Your done.

Don't worry about the rubber nipple cover...it's not going to hurt anything being torn off or missing. It is just to cover the bleeder screw head.


I'll take pics soon when I do this again shortly. Anyone have anything else to add, jump right in. This is how I did it.

My advice would be to just ask a friend to push the clutch pedal for you. Or any passer-by would work too. Family member? GF? You would sure save a lot of time...

Often times assistance is needed and it is not around. :)

So I thought I'd share. Sorry.

Speedbleeder screws also work on the clutch, if i remember correctly.

http://www.speedbleeder.com

I'm not sure on the screw size though. Anyone know?

how much fluid will i need? I'm gonna do the clutch restrictor mod this weekend. Any pointers on that would be good too. TIA

One bottle is more than enough.

I know this is a stupid question, but what exactly will happen if you dont bleed the clutch for a while?? The reason I ask is my clutch fluid is brown and God only knows how long its been that way. I thought they would have changed it when my block was replaced, but i guess not.

There is no reason to change the clutch fluid when doing a block swap. You can keep the system closed for that. If it is dark brown, it might be a good idea to change it. Especially if it has a lot of miles on it.


Mike, I wasn't being a dick or anything. You're system of self-bleeding is good, don't get me wrong. I would just think it would be easier to have someone to help pump the clutch. Plan the clutch bleeding procedure around someone's schedule that has 2 minutes to spare one day to sit in your car and pump the clutch twice :)

don't get loud, jeff :)

i had to do it once by myself and wedged a sparkplug socket in between the pedal and the rubber stopper. it worked for brakes also.

if it got bad enough would it cause the clutch to slip if it doesnt disengage all the way?? The reason I ask is I can tell that it is slipping, but when they swapped my block about 10,000 miles ago they told me that my clutch was only half gone (they basically wanted to sell me a clutch and offered to install it for free). My car currently has 70,100 miles on it

when u have no fluid in the clutch lines, the clutch wont "engage"..

mines leakd all up inside my ride (the master cylider) and i couldnt even shift into any of the gears....

the car just tried to lunge forward instead of it goin into gear...

it sukkd

payce

my boys clutch went out this morning, i had his dsm, just to show you fucking noobs, the FUCKING SEARCH FUNCTION WORKS!

NOW ALL IS WELL, AND THE CLUTCH PERFORMS BETTER THAN EVER!! THANKS MYKE

DWAYNE H
1996 eclipse
under construction widebody eclipse, targa top, 19inch rollers, big brakes, 10 point custom cage, frank 2.4 hrc s20g turbo, custom marble paint job

2000 Yamaha R-1, 165rwhp 117 ftlbs tq

ALMOST THERE...... MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally posted by Thunderous_Talon
a man could build a thousand bridges, and suck one cock. he'll forever be known as a cocksucker.

There is an easier way to bleed the clutch than going back and forth from inside the car to the front of it.

1. Take a piece of rubber hose or tygon tubing about a foot long and slip it over the end of the bleeder. Make sure it is a tight fit.

2. Take an open bottle of brake fluid and set it on the ground just below the bleeder, and put the hose in the bottle.

3. Make sure that the bottom of the hose is submerged in fluid.

4. Check the resevoir and make sure it is full.

5. Open the bleeder screw and go into the car and give the clutch a few pumps.

6. Make sure you don't pump all of the fluid out of the resevoir.

7. Tighten the bleeder screw, and check the clutch pressure.

8. If the clutch still doesn't feel good repeat steps 3 through 7 as many times as needed.

The theory that makes this work is that if the end of the hose in submerged into fluid only fluid can be drawn back into the line when the pedal is released. Sometimes it may take a few times due to the air in the tubing initially, but once the air is out of the tube you should be able to get all the air out of the system. I have bleed my clutch and brakes this way many times before.

Andy

MonteSS86@hotmail.com