Hi, i am a new member and have been reading some of the threads about how to fix a rear main seal leak. I have a good idea about how to do it but i was just wondering what else i should look at/upgrade while im down there doing the work. thanks

How old is your clutch?

If its old, replace it.

Good time to replace the clutch and throwout bearing (TOB).
Also a good time to replace any janky CV axles.

The clutch is pretty new but i will definitely check the cv axles. How hard is it to change the synchros in the tranny cuz i think one of them might be bad and i figured since i'll have the tranny out i might as well try and replace it.

if you've never done it before, I wouldn't recommend it.

Originally posted by DarkOne
if you've never done it before, I wouldn't recommend it.

I agree, not a real good DIY project. I get mine looked over once a year by a local shop that specializes in chrysler trannies and just a once through and new seals is up around $1000. Even worse when I break shit... These are very complicated compare to most FWD apps. Just for comparison- I only dished out $580 last month to have the same guy look at my Civic's tranny and install the Richmond spool while he was in there. It's all labor- your probably gonna hate yourself if you try to take it appart and don't have the proper tools to do it.

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by DarkOne if you've never done it before, I wouldn't recommend it.

I agree, not a real good DIY project. I get mine looked over once a year by a local shop that specializes in chrysler trannies and just a once through and new seals is up around $1000. Even worse when I break shit... These are very complicated compare to most FWD apps. Just for comparison- I only dished out $580 last month to have the same guy look at my Civic's tranny and install the Richmond spool while he was in there. It's all labor- your probably gonna hate yourself if you try to take it appart and don't have the proper tools to do it.

Thanks i didn't really think that it was really a DIY thing especially since i've never done it. So do you think that a shop would charge like $1000 then to replace a rear main seal? Cuz that would really suck. Hope i can do it myself!!

Originally posted by abnt89

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by DarkOne if you've never done it before, I wouldn't recommend it.

I agree, not a real good DIY project. I get mine looked over once a year by a local shop that specializes in chrysler trannies and just a once through and new seals is up around $1000. Even worse when I break shit... These are very complicated compare to most FWD apps. Just for comparison- I only dished out $580 last month to have the same guy look at my Civic's tranny and install the Richmond spool while he was in there. It's all labor- your probably gonna hate yourself if you try to take it appart and don't have the proper tools to do it.

Thanks i didn't really think that it was really a DIY thing especially since i've never done it. So do you think that a shop would charge like $1000 then to replace a rear main seal? Cuz that would really suck. Hope i can do it myself!!

Really, they're like a big puzzle. They aren't that complicated when you take it down to brass tacks, but you have to know what to look for. You might be able to tear it down and put it back together, but if you happen to miss the slight corner worn off the dog teeth of a stop ring or misgauge the depth left on the friction material of any given stop ring, well, you'll have to pull it all apart again. Not all of it is obvious, either, so experience plays a big part... which is why trans work is expensive.

If you feel up to it, go for it. The greatest advice is to use your best judgement when you're looking at parts; if it looks like it's worn, it's probably worn and should be replaced. The 3.55 writeup willbe a big help.

That article was a big help. That tranny stuff looks a little more complicated than something i would want to do so i'll just leave it to the pros. Depending on how much a shop will charge for a rear main seal replacement, i might just do that myself but i guess i'll see what kind of estimate they give me when i go up there. Thanks for all the help

I had a quote for a rear main seal from one of the better trans shops around here:

375 for the rear main seal.

Originally posted by teklein
I had a quote for a rear main seal from one of the better trans shops around here: 375 for the rear main seal.

Ok thats sounds a lot better. Well i know the peope at the shop that im going to so hopefully the price will be pretty reasonable. thanks for the help

Here's an idea!!!

1:Go to the parts store and spend $5 on a new seal wich is shelf stock at most places.

2: Go buy a case of beer.

3: call up every one of your buddies and ask; What are you doing this weekend?

4: Wake up early sat morning, put a wrench in everybodys hands, and get to work.

5: If your underage-skip steps 2 and 3, talk to your dad or older brother, and make the above offer to them and their friends.

If you skipped steps 2 & 3 then by the time its done everybody will be half in the bag, say your very appreciative and sincere thanks and go enjoy your night out with the car.


If you followed steps 1 through 4 properly, your car will be fixed as good as new, your going to pass out way before you even care about the car any more, and your going to lay in bed all sunday asking yourself if there's an easier way to fix your car next time because you don't remember ever having this bad of a hangover before. On the plus side of things, you made $5 off the dumbass that stuck his finger in the bug light the night before....:cheers

Originally posted by quicksilver99
Here's an idea!!! 1:Go to the parts store and spend $5 on a new seal wich is shelf stock at most places. 2: Go buy a case of beer. 3: call up every one of your buddies and ask; What are you doing this weekend? 4: Wake up early sat morning, put a wrench in everybodys hands, and get to work. 5: If your underage-skip steps 2 and 3, talk to your dad or older brother, and make the above offer to them and their friends. If you skipped steps 2 & 3 then by the time its done everybody will be half in the bag, say your very appreciative and sincere thanks and go enjoy your night out with the car. If you followed steps 1 through 4 properly, your car will be fixed as good as new, your going to pass out way before you even care about the car any more, and your going to lay in bed all sunday asking yourself if there's an easier way to fix your car next time because you don't remember ever having this bad of a hangover before. On the plus side of things, you made $5 off the dumbass that stuck his finger in the bug light the night before....:cheers

That sounds like one hell of a plan. Its so crazy it just might work. My girlfriends dad is into this kinda stuff so i think he's going to give me a hand while i'm doing this. Just two questions. What are good TOB and where can i get them? And what are some good motor mounts cuz mine are pretty old and look really dry rotted? I figured if i was taking some off anyway might as well replace them if they look bad. thanks

anybody got any ideas?

Originally posted by abnt89
What are good TOB and where can i get them? And what are some good motor mounts cuz mine are pretty old and look really dry rotted? I figured if i was taking some off anyway might as well replace them if they look bad. thanks

Go with the OEM throw out bearing.

Prothane's seem to be the best choice. I use a solid (as one of the roll stops) in my cars. But they can be a little harsh to some (extra vibration in the cockpit). You can get them from Terry (Star Turbo Talon on here) or my buddy can make one up for you. I don't know of any vendors who make them except Howell and I would think that you would want to do the tranny pull within the next couple of months.

The only other thing I might suggest is to replace the axle seals (again OEM). It is easier while the tranny is out, but can be done with the tranny in place.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Go with the OEM throw out bearing. Prothane's seem to be the best choice. I use a solid (as one of the roll stops) in my cars. But they can be a little harsh to some (extra vibration in the cockpit). You can get them from Terry (Star Turbo Talon on here) or my buddy can make one up for you. I don't know of any vendors who make them except Howell and I would think that you would want to do the tranny pull within the next couple of months. The only other thing I might suggest is to replace the axle seals (again OEM). It is easier while the tranny is out, but can be done with the tranny in place.

I dont really want anymore interior noise cuz our cars are loud enough to start with. Are the OEM engine mounts good enough? And i was planning on pulling the tranny this coming weekend so i can get it over with. thanks

Yeah, OEM is fine. You may want to get the energy suspension inserts then (for the roll stop mounts). They tighten it up a bit without the big vibration. The roll stop mounts are what take the most torque abuse.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Yeah, OEM is fine. You may want to get the energy suspension inserts then (for the roll stop mounts). They tighten it up a bit without the big vibration. The roll stop mounts are what take the most torque abuse.

Ok thats probably what i'll do then. thanks for the info

Also worth mentioning, if you're interested in slightly stiffer motor mounts without spending an arm and a leg (or spending a day putting 10lbs of shit 5lb bags ;) ), consider searching this site for "window weld." You can fill your OEM mounts with urethane for less than $50 and firm them up nicely.

Old school 2GNT budget tech tip.