From left to right, they are 1, 2, 3, 4. Which one is the culprit of my rod knock?




Now for something a little more technical - I understand that bearings are made from soft metals so that if they spin, they will take most of the damage without scarring the crank. That's what I thought that copper color was about - a soft metal for protection. However, the I can feel light grooves with my fingernail over the crank journal. That tells me I can't just polish the journal and put on a new bearing. EDIT: Do you think my other bearings are okay? They are not exactly homogenous in appearance, but perhaps this is normal.

At least I'm getting faster at this...

Poll question: Vote! One of these bearings is not like the other!

Poll result (11 votes) #1 (0 votes) Vote #2 (5 votes) Vote #3 (0 votes) Vote #4 (6 votes) Vote (0 votes) Vote (0 votes) Vote

I wouldn't jus simply polish the crank and throw in a new bearing and call it a day. Take the crank to a machine shop and have them take a look at it, it may need to be cut down a size and you'd need oversized bearings.

I vote 2 cause I like that number.

Your other bearings look like normal wear etc.

By the "rules" you need to pull the crank and mike it out. If this is a new build, thats what I would do. If it was an engine with 120k and up, I would roll the dice. The bearing is not all smushed out.

But if this is a relatively new build, I would be suspicious of how that happened and I would need to check specs.

That is pretty ugly wear.

I'm going to have the crank machined. Just ordered the bolts from boltdepot to help remove the crank sprocket.

One thing I haven't figured out, is how to position the engine as I remove the bedplate. I've always worked on an engine stand, but I can't use the engine stand while taking out the crank because it attaches to both the bedplate and the rest of the block. See, I have this crazy desire to NOT separate the block from the head, so putting the engine upside down so it sits on the head gasket area is not in my future. I'm not going to remove the pistons or rods so why take off the head. I don't believe the engine ran long enough with the bearing to bend the rod and cause future issues - I shut it off rather quickly. I have an extra rod for the machine shop if they need to check clearances so that I can get the correct oversized bearings. I just want to mess around with as *few* things as possible with this rebuild.

Damn nukka... that bearing looked fawked.

Are you rebuilding this over in SB or LBC? Shoot me an email.

Originally posted by ez
One thing I haven't figured out, is how to position the engine as I remove the bedplate. I've always worked on an engine stand, but I can't use the engine stand while taking out the crank because it attaches to both the bedplate and the rest of the block.

I guess I would remove the valve cover and make a quickie wood base that the top of the head would sit on (if I was to do it that way). It would be a little awkward, but it would work.

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by ez One thing I haven't figured out, is how to position the engine as I remove the bedplate. I've always worked on an engine stand, but I can't use the engine stand while taking out the crank because it attaches to both the bedplate and the rest of the block.

I guess I would remove the valve cover and make a quickie wood base that the top of the head would sit on (if I was to do it that way). It would be a little awkward, but it would work.

+1 good idea mark! :thumbsup

Thanks guys!

BTW, the poll currently shows that bearings 2 & 4 are in a tie. :whoa

Originally posted by ez
the poll currently shows that bearings 2 & 4 are in a tie. :whoa

See? People like the number 2 :cheers