I stupidly had the motor "professionally" rebuilt and the result is a rattle or a lower barring knock. I pulled the barring under the 3rd rod from the left and it had some abrasions on it so i popped a new barring in and the knock stopped for about 10 to 15 miles then their i hear that horrific sound come back again. I will try to post a sound clip or something in the next couple of days to better isolate the problem.
I appreciate any help from anyone.

Thanks

Uh, this isn't really the section for this sort of thing. I would create an introduction post, then drop this in the performance/engine section.

But, were there any metal shavings/bits in the oil when you dropped the pan? Did you check all of the rod bearings? How about the bearing surface on the crank?

Lastly, Welcome to the site.

if you had the engine "professionally" built, did they warranty their labor or machine work? It sounds like the blame should be places solely on the builder.

One Barring was rubbed to a bronze color on one side of it. all the other barrings where fine and sorry for posting in the wrong area im new to 2gnt. as far as the professional warranty thing the guy wont talk to me so i have to take him to small claims court in order to recover some of my funds

and no there were no metal shavings in the oil pan. i also replaced the oil pan because it had a very small hole

You are building adequate oil pressure, yes?

Check the bearing clearance.

Originally posted by Locke_db
You are building adequate oil pressure, yes? Check the bearing clearance.

I believe it does now but before the oil pan was replaced i dont think it had the right pressure. i replaced the oil pan barring at the same time. ive been told the rod could be bent. but im thinking my crank is warped or something

dude im sorry to hear this but i would stop touching the engine and drop it on the mechanic that "built" this engine.
any rebuilder should able to back there shit up with atleast a "break in warrenty"

how did you figure out what size replacement bearing to use? when you droped the cap did you mic it to see if they machined it?
when you put in the new bearing, did you call the builder and ask him what thickness the bearing that he installed was so you could put in the same one?

however since you did mechanical work on it and it failed again, im not sure you will be able to get anything out of him. since he can deny that most things were his fault and blame it on you :(
if you have anythign in writing on what was done and you can compare autopsy measurements to that, you might have somthing

Originally posted by eclipse4life
ive been told the rod could be bent. but im thinking my crank is warped or something

if that wasent measured and pronounced "Within Tolerance" when the engine was built you need to rip this guy apart!

again the builder should be able to tell you what the specs of the internals were when he assembled it.
(unless you paid for a blueprinting rebuild, then he damn well better have given you a spec sheet for the engine)

good luck man, and have we now learned to rebuild our own engins? (i know, hindsight lol)

Originally posted by foggy45
dude im sorry to hear this but i would stop touching the engine and drop it on the mechanic that "built" this engine. any rebuilder should able to back there shit up with atleast a "break in warrenty" how did you figure out what size replacement bearing to use? when you droped the cap did you mic it to see if they machined it? when you put in the new bearing, did you call the builder and ask him what thickness the bearing that he installed was so you could put in the same one? however since you did mechanical work on it and it failed again, im not sure you will be able to get anything out of him. since he can deny that most things were his fault and blame it on you :( if you have anythign in writing on what was done and you can compare autopsy measurements to that, you might have somthing

Originally posted by eclipse4life ive been told the rod could be bent. but im thinking my crank is warped or something

if that wasent measured and pronounced "Within Tolerance" when the engine was built you need to rip this guy apart! again the builder should be able to tell you what the specs of the internals were when he assembled it. (unless you paid for a blueprinting rebuild, then he damn well better have given you a spec sheet for the engine) good luck man, and have we now learned to rebuild our own engins? (i know, hindsight lol)

The mechanic paid for the barring and was fully aware of the situation he purchased the barring and everything. Then after it began to knock again he wouldnt talk to me i finally went to his house and told his fat bitch ass wife that he needed to fix my car and she said well he wont do anything for you, so i responded with see you in small claims court. for the rebuilding the engine part i have never rebuilt a automobile engine only dirtbike/fourwheeler engines. if it comes down to it i think i will be learning how its done.

Originally posted by eclipse4life
i have never rebuilt a automobile engine only dirtbike/fourwheeler engines. if it comes down to it i think i will be learning how its done.

It's not that different, just bigger and you don't have to worry about slipping aircooled piston jugs over the pistons so it's actually easier

Im just worried about all the sensors and my biggest fear is that i will take it all apart rebuild it and then the car wont start ;{. If i do decide to rebuild the engine how much would the total be after machine shop, i found a lower end rebuild kit here http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=372
How much would the machine shop cost? Is there any thing else i will need? How about cheap performance upgrades while i have everything apart my budget is around 600-700 dollars.

i really thank everyone for the help

ok so i replaced the rod barrings and when i tried to turn the car on the crank wouldn't turn so i pull the oil pan off again and pulled the spark plugs to see if i could turn it by hand and sure enough i couldn't so i loosened the barrings and got the motor turning it sounded fine and it ran perfect so when i took it for a test drive and around 2 miles away the knock came back and became very loud and worse then before. so i got out and pushed it like 20yds to a parking lot at 5 in the morning by myself. should i try it again with loctite?


Please any advice is appreciated

1st thing is call up the rebuilder, and have your issue settled.

If you were to do this yourself, you have to take out the engine and then remove the crank to have it machined. I know - I'm in the EXACT same boat as you. Rod 4 had that nice bronze color to it too. I'm going to machine the crank and buy oversize bearings from partsdinosaur.

are those your crank barrings or your rod barrings and also my barrings are no where near as bad im thinking if i redo them with ass tones of loctite then it might work

Originally posted by eclipse4life
Are those your crank bearings or your rod bearings? Also my bearings are no where near as bad, I'm thinking if I redo them with ass tons of loctite then it might work.

Fixed for spelling, punctuation and capatalization. I had to. The errors were driving me crazy.

If you keep chewing up BEARINGS (note the spelling, I'm trying to help here) then your crank is damaged as well. You either need a new crank or to have yours machined and measured like EZ said. No ammount of loctite is going to fix your situation.

Originally posted by eclipse4life
The mechanic paid for the barring and was fully aware of the situation he purchased the barring and everything. Then after it began to knock again he wouldnt talk to me i finally went to his house and told his fat bitch ass wife that he needed to fix my car and she said well he wont do anything for you, so i responded with see you in small claims court.

ahhh i see, now i think you have a small claims case then :thumbsup


and as far as rebuilding goes, no worries man :P
my first one i was paranoid as HELL when i finished wondering if i got it right.
but with ALL the info here and awsome rebuild writeups here as well it went real smooth and it gets easier every time you do it.