I just did a head gasket change.. and got it all done, the car fired right up.. changes the oil twice to get all that crap that was in there from the headgasket being blown..now when gas is appled it has a NASTY knock :wtf . now im stuck again and im guessing its a spun bearing but i dont know if anyone has any thoughts or ideas please let me know. thanks in advance

Give more details about the knock. Does it happen at idle? Increase as RPMs increase?

Well when i start the car knocks for a split second then stops at idle.then when givin gas about 2grand it starts to knock hard.i really dont know how else to explain it.. i guess ill start it and pull a spark plug wire to determine which cylinder its in.. but i dono :wallbash

thats a rod knock. Drop the pan and tap each rod cap with a small hammer. the one that sounds odd is your bad rod.

Terry

now that, i have to take the head off again i guess i have to change the head gasket again, or can ususe it? oh and do the rods have floating wrist pins is or are they pressed? thanks

not to thread jack, but mine started doing that. mine sounds like a collapsed lifter though. (thats getting checked and fixed tomorrow hopefully) i'd check that too. (i pray mines not a rod, its a built motor with under 6k miles on it)

Originally posted by 95-DSM-GUY
now that, i have to take the head off again i guess i have to change the head gasket again, or can ususe it? oh and do the rods have floating wrist pins is or are they pressed? thanks

You do not have to pull the head again. You drain the oil (check it for "glitter" which would be metal from wear), then drop the pan and tap the rod caps on the BOTTOM of the engine to see if they all sound okay.

If it *is* a rod bearing on it's way out, you might try replacing the bearings from under the car at this time. A new set of rod bearing should be under $50. Throw them in there (get some plastigauge and check your clearances according to the instructions) and see if you have any luck. If the journals on the crank are chewed up to need machine work, you'll have to pull the engine, but if it's just one rogue bearing after a number of years, you might be able to get away with a fresh set like this. Expect to rebuild that bottom end, though.

EDIT:
IMPORTANT NOTE! Should you attempt this and end up removing the rod caps from below, make sure you keep absolute track of which cap comes off which rod and which way it was facing. They might all *look* the same, but I assure you they are not. It's annoying as fuck to bolt that last one up and find the crank is binding up.

After you remove each cap, spray it clean with brake cleaner, then mark each one with the number of the cylinder and which end pointed to the front of the car. For reference, #1 is closest to timing belt. When you are lying under the car with your feet sticking out the front, they are 1-2-3-4 from left to right.

You can totally do this.