So here's my situation. I bought the following parts from hiphop615:

JE 8.6/1 pistons .20 over
JE pro seal rings
Eagle H-beam rods
ACL main and rod bearings
Crank that has been polished and cut down
melling oil pump
Bare block bored .20 over, honed, hot tanked and decked

The problem is, I didn't get much of the original instructions with any of the parts so I am dreading assembly of the shorty.

I read up on corbins build that he was kind enough to document, and it sounds like it's gonna be a bitch without all this info. If anyone else has done this same build, which I know many have, please share any tricks or general info you might have. I don't know what way the pistons have to face, or the rods, or if it even matters. I don't know what position the rings go in(3-6-9?), what the ring gap should be, ect.

Also, the pistons are all scored above the top compression ring. It's not horrible, but it worries me. Can I just take a file and take off the high spots? It looks to me like the pistons were in a vise to put the wrist pins in or something. Everything is brand new, so this dissapointed me. It is only on 2 opposing spots on each piston, and only in the upper 1/4".

Please give me your input so I can successfully build this motor the right way. Thanks in advance, Mike.

id just call and talk to JE the're nice guys.

IIRC, JE pistons have a small divit on the top denoting the front of the engine
http://www.jepistons.com/dept/tech/dl/piston_instrc2618.pdf

JE Tech
8. What kind of ring end gap should I run?

We supply ring spec sheets with all of our pistons. If you misplace it, or would like specific gap specs for your combination, give us a call and tell us how your using our pistons so we can help you with gap specs.

as far as the actual build goes, make friends with plastigauge and a chiltons manual for the proper gaps.
using forged internals for a rebuild dosent change the basics of a rebuild, the clearences are still the same. (piston to wall cleaence will be the big difference as you have forged pistons, but JE should be able to tell you the correct gap) the only torques that would change are the head studs, and the rod caps. everything else should be the same as a stock rebuild.

if you have "full grove main bearings" and a non-95 block then you will have to notch the skirt to make the tabs fit

Thanks for the quick reply! What do you mean by notch the skirts to make the tabs fit?

on the 95's, the skirt was ment to accept 360* full groved main bearings. this changed on 96+ and the groves are only on the block side of the main bearings.

to accept these bearings the 95 skirt has little notches to accept the keyed lower bearings, this keeps the bearings aligned.
therefor if you have a 96+ block, once your bearings arrive you will have to mark out where to put the notches (i used a dremal and a metal cutting disk) Dont guess! take your time and do it right, test fitting the skirt bearings as you go to make sure they fit flush and dont move.
most people do this to guard the engine from "Lack of Lubrication" issues when doing a performance build. this makes sure there is a 360* cushion of oil.