Okay, heres the scoop. I bought a crate motor from overbore.com which was built all performance parts, ready for a nice turbo. (Ill post engine specs at bottom) Been running it for about 10k now and my head gasket blew im assuming, because theres coolant all over the motor. Now I did some searches on this baby, and I guess all Im really looking for is anyone who has done or knows someone who has had to replace their head gasket also and really any tips on where I should get started on it. Not having it done by a shop, becasue they want like 1300 and Im not trying to get ripped off. So, for the experience and to save money Im doing it with my dad. any walkthroughs, tips, guides on what to do would be greatly appreciated... MOTOR SPECS\/\/\/\/ ps. oh yeah and certain kinda gasket to be ordered?

420A block, turbo ready block assy. Wiseco Forged pistons. W/rings (8.6:1 ratio/.020 overbore) Eagle performance custom rods New main Studs/Bolts New Brass freeze plugs Block painted black New oil pump front cover Melling Performance New oil drive gears Line boring, decking, boring, and plateau honing of block Assembly of the shortblock Balance the rotating assembly File Fit Pistons rings New ACL performance bearings (Rods, Mains and Thrust) Crankshaft index Ground Blueprinting of the shortblock Full gasket set New OAW performance Water pump Timing Belt, Idlers, Tensioners Fidanza Indexable Cam Gears Head (STAINLESS SP PERFORMANCE valves) Silica-bronze guides New lifters Crower Performance springs and Retainers New Valve Locks ARP head studs MLS head gasket Cometic New cam seals Crower Cams stage II 64462-2 Rocker cover gaskets Rocker arms (set of 16) Street polish & port

grab a solid weekend (just in case you "oops" somthing) and bribe some friends with a sixer and some Jimmy Johns and it can be done

since you have ARP studs this will go a bit easier.
you can do this with the engine still in the car although the biggest headache will be timing. doing the timing can get frustrating dealing with the small clearences. but a beer usually solves any timing frustrations :P

basically its just removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, coolent lines and other electronic conectors. take off the timing cover and undo the timing belt.
again since you already have arp studs you shouldnt have to mess with any of the valve train. pop off the nuts and pull the head off :thumbsup
remove old gasket, check head and make sure you didnt warp anything, place new MLS gasket over the studs and reassemble.

I used these two links extensively and everything went well...

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html
http://www.geocities.com/eclipsed4evr98/Timingbeltprocedure.html

Just read them a few times, there were also a couple threads I read that had some good tips in them I'll try to find them. If not post up your questions as you go and I'm sure someone will help.

One tip, as stated in the second link, side motor mount bracket is a BITCH. I was able to somewhat easily remove it though with the front MM unbolted and having the engine jacked up as high as possible.

Thank you guys for the help. Still usure of exactly what we're going to do, just got the car towed our garage today, so I will let you guys know when we've made a decision, and post pics, possibly a walk-through???? if all goes well! Thanks again.

Quick question, on the 2nd link about timing belt removal, is there a certain key to putting motor "in time" or is that just lining up timing marks on cams, block, and crank?

Originally posted by zestridge_
Quick question, on the 2nd link about timing belt removal, is there a certain key to putting motor "in time" or is that just lining up timing marks on cams, block, and crank?

Do a search for timing belt and make sure you tick "Thread Subject Only".

hmmm, got another question. Have any of you overheated so bad that on your head, there is a melting plug thing and it melted? If so, whats that called and how bad was your motor damaged after coming off

Originally posted by zestridge_
hmmm, got another question. Have any of you overheated so bad that on your head, there is a melting plug thing and it melted? If so, whats that called and how bad was your motor damaged after coming off

I believe the technical term for that is "nuke." If something in the head actually melted, you done fucked up, son. I'd say you're looking at the motor being seriously damaged.

well. My dad took my head to get checked out at a local machine shop, we got it off a few days ago, and I believe I may have gotten lucky. By just scopng everything out and taking a wire brush and some cleaner to it, there were no visible cracks but some warping may have occurred. We thing the head started to leak because of the studs being loose, my dad came upon this last night after i left our garage...

My question... Have you guys heard of that happening before? there was a lot of oil down in them and the were just really loose for some reason.

edit: got my head back today and everything is great.. still wondering about those studs though.

Originally posted by zestridge_
still wondering about those studs though.

Studs or bolts? Studs only go into the block hand tight, of course they're going to feel loose once the head is off.

studs, i guess you're right though, that makes sense. But should there be a lot of oil down in them?

alright guys,last question... I think.

On a performance motor,everything rebuilt for power, when adding an exhaust, headers, and possibly new throttle body/intake... how much power should be gained when replacing these stock parts with aftermarket product, and if im not using a shift kit on my ATX, what are a few upgrades tot make sure power gets to the wheels?