I changed the Cam Shaft and Crank Shaft sensors, car was recently loosing alot of power, really stuttery when pulling out and shift, and starting real Hard. So I changed them, doesnt start hard anymore, fixed some of the stuttering and no long surges when i engage the clutch. So thats good.


But theres still some power there to be free'd up that is being held back. And juss feels like its struggiling to get to the 4k mark. And when I first start the car, itll die when you go to pull out. Some idle issues when at idle. It will drop/raise withing 200rpms. IAC?


I want to try and change the IAT, but I need the whole wiring. The plug, the sensor was juss changed. Anyone know where I can get the plug?

And where is the IAC located? And where can I get a new one?

Any other ideas?

The IAC in on the bottom of the TB. Try removing it, testing it, cleaning it, and reinstalling it, before your go about replacing it.

did that fixed the idle...Still lookin to fix other problems...

have you done a compression test? if you don't have good compresssion it can cause massive loss of power at higher rpms, check your plugs and wires too, bad spark can really show up the higher your rpms.

Dont wanna sound dumb, but how I do a compression test? lol

It grinds sometimes when you start it, like it turn over, and then it sounds like somthing spinning (clutch?) and catches and scrapes/grinds.

Its wierd, this morning i left when it was cold, and it drove fine, now power loss, shifted smooth, as soon as it warmed up, it was shit. And then after an 8 hr work shift, went to start it, warmed up immediatly and was shit again.

compression tests require a special tool, it's a big pressure guage with a hose attached and a threaded end to match spark plug holes. run the car till the engine warms up to normal operating temp.

remove all the spark plugs and pull the fuel pump fuse (or disconnect any of the sensors that will prevent fuel and spark)

thread the compression tester into the #1 cylinder plug well (closest to the timing cover and have someone crank over the engine with the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. record the highest number reached on the tester.

lather, rinse, repeat for the remaining cylinders in order.

numbers should be in the 180-200+ range depending on wear and altitude.

if they seem lower try putting 2 capfulls of oil in each cylinder and repeat the test. if the numbers jump up significantly your rings are toast.

compression testers will run you about $25-40 depending on what quality (you don't need top of the line for this) or free if you can borrow one from a nearby gearhead.

Edit: quick thought I had about the fact that it's running good cold but crappy hot, what kind of plugs are in there? also have they or the wires been changed recently?

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
compression tests require a special tool, it's a big pressure guage with a hose attached and a threaded end to match spark plug holes. run the car till the engine warms up to normal operating temp. remove all the spark plugs and pull the fuel pump fuse (or disconnect any of the sensors that will prevent fuel and spark) thread the compression tester into the #1 cylinder plug well (closest to the timing cover and have someone crank over the engine with the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. record the highest number reached on the tester. lather, rinse, repeat for the remaining cylinders in order. numbers should be in the 180-200+ range depending on wear and altitude. if they seem lower try putting 2 capfulls of oil in each cylinder and repeat the test. if the numbers jump up significantly your rings are toast. compression testers will run you about $25-40 depending on what quality (you don't need top of the line for this) or free if you can borrow one from a nearby gearhead. Edit: quick thought I had about the fact that it's running good cold but crappy hot, what kind of plugs are in there? also have they or the wires been changed recently?

NGK plugs, the step colder ones. I used to have reg AC Delco ones, but they did they same thing. Plugs were juss changed maybe 2 months ago.

Forgot to mention, when i first got the car, we had to put a Helix coil in the 4 plug spot? Could that be affecting anything? And if i have to put new rings in, how hard is it? Cause im starting to get slim bit of white smoke. And for a head change, do i need to do the T-belt?

Originally posted by Willdue
And for a head change, do i need to do the T-belt?

You have to remove the t-belt to get the head off anyway, so you might as well.

Helicoiling shouldn't affect anything if it was done right. if it was wrong, you'd notice it cold or hot. the compression test will tell if it's bad (that cylinder will be way lower)

plugs should be fine, especially if you're turbo or doing long drives. if you drive more short trips they might be fouling, but you'd notice things more when the engine is cold IIRC.

autozone wants 80$ for a copression tester ah

checker/shucks/kragen 29.99 for the basic one, $50 for the good one that has braided line and goes past 300 psi

I bought the good one cause I got a discount and it looked cool. not cause I need it

dad did a test, its fine.

I really am starting to think its not gettin fuel...

Again, I went to work this morning, and the whole way the car drove alot better. Then driving home it drove like shit again. The exhuast, you can hear it, it sounds so droggy, like a shitty wrx wit an exhuast lol.

if it's sounding like a subaru, you're probably dropping a cylinder and misfiring. when was the last time the plug wires were changed?

also might be a good idea to check the resistance on the coil when the car is cold and again when it's hot. same for injectors too. if you check the resistance cold they might be in spec but suddenly be out of spec when the engine is hot

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
if it's sounding like a subaru, you're probably dropping a cylinder and misfiring. when was the last time the plug wires were changed? also might be a good idea to check the resistance on the coil when the car is cold and again when it's hot. same for injectors too. if you check the resistance cold they might be in spec but suddenly be out of spec when the engine is hot

Wires were juss changed like a month ago. How do i check the resistance?

bummp

juss today, i was backing my car out the driveway, and I heard a "water drip" sound, ughhhh?>

the chilton's manual shows how to check the resistance, it requires a multimeter, borrow one they can be expensive.

was the water sound something like hearing someone upstairs running water down pipes? right during/after increasing the RPM's? if yes you have a bubble in the coolant. burp the system, check for leaks, this might have been the problem all along

yea, im gunna have to check that, i juss did that the other day, cause my coolant was empty, and my reserve is empty, I took the cap off and started it, and my gf said it goes away when u hit the gas, mean i dont have enough fluid?

Quick update before I go to work. I put more coolant in the resevoir, and held the gas til all the bubbles went away under the cap, took like maybe a min til they went away.

It still idles funky, moves maybe like 2-300 RPMS at idle, im guess vacuum leak, cause I juss replaced the IAC the other day...

has the hot running issue gone away now that you've burped the system?

2-300 rpms for idle is a bit strange, vac leaks tend to cause high idle, like 2-3000 rpms, is that what you meant?

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
has the hot running issue gone away now that you've burped the system? 2-300 rpms for idle is a bit strange, vac leaks tend to cause high idle, like 2-3000 rpms, is that what you meant?

No, 200-300 lol.


Nah, still drives like shit

not a vacuum leak if it's that low, maybe a stuck IAC, you recently replaced it right? maybe you got a bad one. improbable, but not impossible.

2-300 rpms, it shouldn't be running.

I fixed the idle problem, idk what i did, cleaned the throttle body and replaced a cracked vacuum line, and it idles good now, a tad high but, doesnt jump, its steady.


Im gunna try and get an ECU and see if that fixes anything.

what's a tad high? 12-1500 rpms? is it just during warmup?