I hesitate to put this in the performance section because IDK if you can call the OBX performance :P , but here goes.

Had a urgent need for a better than stock intake. Thought I would try the OBX for a band aid. Got a deal from one of our members (thanks again Nightfall) and I impatiently waited for it to arrive.

When the box came in, I anxiously opened it up and it was like the light of God himself came out of that box;



Look at how shiney she is! Damn, if it's that pretty how could it be bad?




So I carefully lifted her out of the cushion of bubble wrap to look her over. Hmm, welds are big but not too sloppy, It has 1/4 and 1/8 npt holes to work with. The throttle body holes line up with a stock throttle body. The intake flange lines up precisely with an extra head that I had laying around. Damn, maybe this isn't as bad as others say it will be. Let's take a closer look.

Upon closer inspection, that plenum looks kinda like a Mr Potato head doll.



All head and no body.





Well, OK, so the plenum's a little big. I can live with that. The throttle body hole looks like it's stock size, so I will have to port it out for my MP 60mm. Cool, I anticipated that. I don't have to worry about the map sensor because I run MSnS. But I could see drilling it out on the end of that big-headed plenum, no problem. OK, let's look inside the plenum.



WTF? Lol, they put the runners through the plenum. One by more than 1/4 inch! What were they expecting some kind of water level in there? Well, at least they got number one runner correct :shrug Gonna have to grind that down somehow.





Ok, let's look at the flange side of this bobble headed thing.



Again, WTF? Those runners are not even close to aligned with the flange. In some spots, there is like 3/8 of an inch step into the runner area. Imagine the turbulence when the air comes down the runner all happy-like from being in that big ole plenum and then SLAM! It goes face first into that step. That'll cause some disturbed air. Crap gotta do some grinding there.





OK, let's check fuel rail then get down to busi........and, of course, fuel rail doesn't quite line up. But I can simply step up the holes on the old rail like this;



That's an easy one to solve.

Now I'll start by match porting the TB; no problem (sorry no pics).



Next, I gotta try to grind/port/massage the flange side of the runners so there is at least a smooth transition;





Well that cleaned them up a bit, I'll polish them out later.




Now to get to the plenum. How to get in there :scratch ?
Well, I'll take out my 18" top plate to bottom plate, wood bit extension and attached my carbide bit to it.



(I use this to drill from one floor to another - in a house - to run wires or pipes from one floor to another. The acorns were of no help)




That allowed me to do this;



Yeah, I got back and gave it a polish.

Now she's ready to install. First, take off the old;



(Hmm, I got some junk laying around) Switch parts;




and bolt on the new. But wait, what's this? It doesn't fit in there? OK, gotta remove the cruise control throttle cable;






OK, but now I need a throttle cable. OH! That's what the side of the house is for;




My daily driver/emergency parts car (incidentally, does anyone have a non cruise control cable kickin' around ;-) )

Now she'll pop right in th.....nope. Gotta relocate my 4g63 ignitor for the MSnS. OK, now if I can....just...get it in there the right Rubic's cube way. Um.....up from the bottom.......twisted 36.5 degrees and angled 14.8 degrees.....slip over one stud......then spin.....Viola'. She's on! Nothing to it. Bolt her up, hook her up and she's ready to go;



Looks pretty, but I haven't hit the dyno to tune her yet. Don't think at this time she hurts or helps, but I did get the 13.863 @ 98.84 run with her on.

Heh, heh, just a little "for fun" write up.

Originally posted by bullettdsm The acorns were of no help

For some reason this made me LOL

Thanks for the writeup Mark. I have an OBX sitting out in the garage right now. I got it on a trade for some old control arms I had laying around. So now I have a future project to work with.

nice work..

I kinda wrote this up for a laugh, tongue-in-cheek style. A couple of people mentioned putting this in the wiki. If it's helpful, I'll put it in.

What do you guys think? Helpful wiki material? Or just laugh at OBX material?

It may be helpful to some. I've been leary about putting the OBX I have on my car. I do get a kick out of how poorly it is made though.

Thats why you spend the extra buck and get the original manifold design from Venom like I did. It is not poorly made at all like the OBX is.

Just got back from the dyno with the OBX. Got some interesting results. A little more power, but gained under the curve. The peak power also shifted. More importantly, the torque curve and the power curve hold out much better after the peak (that's the area I've been trying to get stronger). I gotta get to my original dyno for comparison numbers before I can post up numbers. Definitely helps with flow. I'm running at peak of 87% duty cycle! (Previously in the high 50's) So now were getting somewhere.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Just got back from the dyno with the OBX. Got some interesting results. A little more power, but gained under the curve. The peak power also shifted. More importantly, the torque curve and the power curve hold out much better after the peak (that's the area I've been trying to get stronger). I gotta get to my original dyno for comparison numbers before I can post up numbers. Definitely helps with flow. I'm running at peak of 87% duty cycle! (Previously in the high 50's) So now were getting somewhere.

Good to hear some results finally

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by bullettdsm Just got back from the dyno with the OBX. Got some interesting results. A little more power, but gained under the curve. The peak power also shifted. More importantly, the torque curve and the power curve hold out much better after the peak (that's the area I've been trying to get stronger). I gotta get to my original dyno for comparison numbers before I can post up numbers. Definitely helps with flow. I'm running at peak of 87% duty cycle! (Previously in the high 50's) So now were getting somewhere.

Good to hear some results finally

+1 Good job!

OK, so here we go. I ended up having a little break up problem on the dyno tonight. Might be plugs or gas. Not too major but I suspect I might have lost a pony or two, but close enough for comparison/information sake.

Got a max power of 177.49whp with max torque of 148.17 (SAE correction)

Ok, so I got 3 more horses out of the OBX intake BUT.......gotta look at what else I ended up with. My peak hosepower now hits at 7400 rpm (previously 6800). The curve is much flatter on the top end with a lot less drop off. I'm still running at 170 whp at 7.9 to 8k with the OBX. I didn't even do my run that far with the ported stocker, because I was too far into the lost power. I was at 164whp(ish) at 7500rpm with the stocker.

The area I wanted to gain most on was in the upper rpm's. I like what I am seeing. This should help me pull through 3rd gear better, I have been hitting the line at around 7100 to 7200 rpm in 3rd gear. With my previous power range I couldn't feel that "pull" across the line. I'm hoping I will see that now.

As for the OBX.........hmm......is it worth it? Well for my purposes and the price that I got it for, I gotta say yes (though the proof is in the 1/4 mile pudding. Gotta run her first to be sure). It does shift the power band (600rpms) and give you a flatter (read better) curve. Both very helpful things. I'm actually kinda happy with the results. They are pretty much what I expected (though I hoped I would have gone a little higher peak). But keep in mind that this is on a 12.5 to 1 comp engine with crower 3's, MSnS and supporting mods on a "reworked" OBX intake. Can't say how it would affect a less modded NA.

Now I really, really need to dyno Mike's short runner intake for comparison. No pressure Mike, just needed it yesterday :P <--- Just kidding Mike, I know you're busy, busy.

I hope that helps others decide.

Good work man. I love how you've documented your progress, it's so nice to see.

Maybe it'll bump your trap speed to 100+, which you know should be good for a few tenths. I'm hoping to see in the 13.5's with this.

Thanks Luke, I know it's not all THAT scientific but it does give you an idea of the pros and cons. As for your assessment, the area that I gained has been a bit of a sticking point for me (as has the peak power point). I've hit triple digits once, but I'm suspecting that this should put me there. Although I think you are being a bit optomistic in the 13.5's ;-) . We'll find out this weekend at the East Coast SO (unless, of course, something goofy happens).

Guys, as for the OBX, I gotta say that the myth that it will help (in the true mythbusters sense), is confirmed. For you turbo guys, it gives you a relatively cheap option to push some air through and up your peak point. For you built NA guys, should be helpful.

That is not to say it is a great piece. Remember that it will require "massaging" and patience. You are not that far better off of a good ported and polished stock intake (and I would suspect that an extude honed would be even closer) but for the choices that we have right now, it's not that bad of a choice. I will no longer laugh and point at it like it's a red headed step-child.

Hey Mark,

I have a couple of questions for you...

1. What's it made out of? I've never held one in my hands. It looks like plated steel, am I right?
2. What diameter are the runners?
3. Can you weld?

Anyone know the plenum dimensions of the Venom manifold?

Originally posted by dougie2
Anyone know the plenum dimensions of the Venom manifold?

I dont off hand, I will try and get them for you this weekend.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
I will no longer laugh and point at it like it's a red headed step-child.

I will. :)

They half-assed the implementation of a would-be acceptable manifold design. The manifold doesn't seem to have quality issues as much as it does R&D (lack of) and production process issues.

Like many other fine OBX products, junk from the factory that has to be fixed by the consumer, after which becomes a decent (albeit cheap) product.

Oh yeah, good job there, Mark. Good info.

Originally posted by Locke_db
They half-assed the implementation of a would-be acceptable manifold design. The manifold doesn't seem to have quality issues as much as it does R&D (lack of) and production process issues.

No doubt :cheers I think with OBX R&D stands for Rip off and Deliver (meh I could have done better on that :shrug ).

As for Paul's questions;

1. Made of T-6061 lightweight billet aluminum and chrome plated

2. I tried to get soem dimensions real quick but I couldn't get in there. I'm hoping others may step up here.

3. Rub it in why doncha? I'm a pretty good fab guy who can't weld worth a crap. Slag city but it'll hold. Happy now :order ?

Originally posted by bullettdsm
3. Rub it in why doncha? I'm a pretty good fab guy who can't weld worth a crap. Slag city but it'll hold. Happy now :order ?

Well... I forgot you were getting a new one built already, but I was going to recommend that you rip off the curved part of the plenum and weld these bad boys on top of each runner:

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/velocitystacks.html

Then if you tapered the plenum somewhat, and re-welded it to the rest of the manifold, you'd have a decent hunk of aluminum routing air to your cylinders.

"Wiki"tized because of positive results.

i just ported out my stock manifold and got the exact same results

Originally posted by savior0010
i just ported out my stock manifold and got the exact same results

Lets see the dyno sheets.

Originally posted by Locke_db

Originally posted by savior0010 i just ported out my stock manifold and got the exact same results

Lets see the dyno sheets.

Yea and pics of your work.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Thats why you spend the extra buck and get the original manifold design from Venom like I did. It is not poorly made at all like the OBX is.

Reviving this from the dead...

As it turns out, yes, the Venom plenum-to-runner transition is much nicer than what is shown above in the OBX:



However, the runner to flange transitions are still shit. Sharp edges, huge steps, misalignment between the runner and the flange. They're terrible. Had I paid money for this Venom, I'd be pissed. It took me nearly two hours with a dremel before i'd even consider the runner to flange transitions excusable. Even then, I need to take a gnarly carbide grinder to them because there's just too much metal hanging out in there to get it with a dremel. It would be an incredible waste to attach this poorly built hunk of aluminum to the intake side of over $1000 worth of ported head.

As well, (and not so much a concern for MS people) there are _no_ provisions for an IAT sensor, a factory MAP, a PCV system, or an EGR. Ridiculous for something that costs, what, $500 new? Its inexcusable for anyone to pay that much money for what some people have claimed is a quality part over the years and still have to sink ten to fifteen hours into it to make it usable.

I was thinking a lot of the aftermarket intakes had the runner protruding into the plenum with bells, aided in the air direction/velocity and all the good physics stuff. They were basically velocity stacks that had a box around them...

Originally posted by justins71
I was thinking a lot of the aftermarket intakes had the runner protruding into the plenum with bells, aided in the air direction/velocity and all the good physics stuff. They were basically velocity stacks that had a box around them...

You can't tell very well from the picture, but the runner-to-plenum transition in the Venom has a very velocity-stack-like taper into each runner. however, I doubt the added velocity would offset the horrible runner-to-flange transition.

Death revival for updating disappearing "putfile" pics with "photobucket" pics

Did you or anyone have a problem with the brake booster line not reaching? Mine isnt so far, I got upset and gave up for the night. Theres literally an inch or less between the back of the manifold and the firewall. Its almost impossible to connect things on the back while its bolted down.

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Did you or anyone have a problem with the brake booster line not reaching? Mine isnt so far, I got upset and gave up for the night. Theres literally an inch or less between the back of the manifold and the firewall. Its almost impossible to connect things on the back while its bolted down.

Nope, hose reached fine. Possibly yours was cut down at one point? May have to get a section to extend it. Just make sure you keep your check valve, lol.

Honestly no real problem in getting the hook-ups done after she's in (but there was a bit of a rubic's cube effort to get her in place). I hooked from underneath. But I didn't have a cruise control box in the way.

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick Did you or anyone have a problem with the brake booster line not reaching? Mine isnt so far, I got upset and gave up for the night. Theres literally an inch or less between the back of the manifold and the firewall. Its almost impossible to connect things on the back while its bolted down.

Nope, hose reached fine. Possibly yours was cut down at one point? May have to get a section to extend it. Just make sure you keep your check valve, lol. Honestly no real problem in getting the hook-ups done after she's in (but there was a bit of a rubic's cube effort to get her in place). I hooked from underneath. But I didn't have a cruise control box in the way.

Well, heres my install. I have some fitment issues. And Im not going to lie, if I had bought this new I would be upset, due to how things fit and how long it took to get in. But since its been worked over and could give me some gains on the track, I will be optimistic for now. Also, if I take my cam sensor off the head, will oil spew all over the engine when its running?

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Also, if I take my cam sensor off the head, will oil spew all over the engine when its running?

Yup.

But damn it does look sweet in there, lol.

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick Also, if I take my cam sensor off the head, will oil spew all over the engine when its running?

Yup. But damn it does look sweet in there, lol.

Well, going to the track wednesday to see what the difference is. Its not looking good for me right now though. Since Ive had it on, Ive lost both acc belts, a corner marker, a foglight bumper bracket and Ive got oil leaking (not sure if from crank seal or blow by from the hose due to not having PCV anymore)

On a positive note, tuned the car tonight and the 5500-7500 rpm range feels stronger. Feels like it pulls better. Might have moved my power/torque curves. Ill get a dyno run after the track sometime. Updates on wednesday...

Forgot to add, not sure if this intakes larger plenum gives more air at idle, but I went from 900 rpm with 35 IAC steps with my ported stocker, to 950 RPM with 2 steps with this intake. Not sure if its a vacuum leak somewhere or just a larger intake giving the engine more air.

Well, I found one reason my IAC wanders. The sides of the intake actually collapse inwards under closed throttle. Watching it when I opened the throttle plate you could see the sides bulge out, when I closed it again it slowly sucked the sides in. Kinda crazy.

Also, Bullett, did you happen to notice if this intake increased noise around the manifold area? Since the install I have noticed a ticking/chattering sound is louder. Could be my valves tapping, could be the injector solenoids clicking. Either way, Im thinking its echoing in and being amplified by this intake. Doesnt bother me, just wondering.

Sounds like shitty steel to me, man I really hate OBX products, still hope you see a gain, but by what you said, I would be scared to come anywhere near that manifold with any type of real horsepower (referring to our boosted buddies)

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Well, I found one reason my IAC wanders. The sides of the intake actually collapse inwards under closed throttle. Watching it when I opened the throttle plate you could see the sides bulge out, when I closed it again it slowly sucked the sides in. Kinda crazy. Also, Bullett, did you happen to notice if this intake increased noise around the manifold area? Since the install I have noticed a ticking/chattering sound is louder. Could be my valves tapping, could be the injector solenoids clicking. Either way, Im thinking its echoing in and being amplified by this intake. Doesnt bother me, just wondering.

Nope didn't notice any "extra" ticking. Pretty sure I boosted that thing too.

MB

but did yours flex like colby is talking about? maybe he got a knock off of a knock off?

Originally posted by Fotowntalon
but did yours flex like colby is talking about? maybe he got a knock off of a knock off?

This is the intake Bullett had.

Welp, results are in. I ran .1 of a second SLOWER with this intake and drag radials than I did with my ported stocker and street tires. It definately helped my upper RPM range, especially 65-7500, but down low (ie anything below 5000) it was a dog. Apparently the more built the rest of the motor, the more this intake helps. So I guess its either ported stocker or AMM for me...

Colby sir, you do know that a tenth of a second difference could be many numerous things beyond simply 1 bolt on right? If you had perfect shifts in two different runs(one with each bolt on) with the same 60' then I can see it being comparable. I would trust your data logger more in this decision

It wasnt only that, it drove different too. Not in a good way. Not helping + less DD ability = no help for me.

What was your 60 foot on your 14.9 run? Im running drag radials and still spinning after a burnout. Best 60 tonight was 2.4 something (horrible, but better than my 2.6 with street tires.)

2.212 which I found really good for my first time on slicks ever. What tire pressure you running at and what are you launching from? Also we can take this to chat if you want.

Just for added info, my best 60' with the 205/55R14 nitto drag radials I use was with my best run, and it was a 2.206

Also, way way back when I put on the extrude honed manifold I didn't have all that amny mods, but I do remember that the very first run in the car with it on, I beat my previous best 1/4 mile by a tenth. I think it went from 15.8 to 15.7. I know it definitely helped.

I know this is a couple months old but I am about to pick up a venom fuel rail and an obx intake for cheap...would I be better off just getting the fuel rail and going with a different intake later on?

I vote yes. But out of curiosity, how cheap is cheap? I mean they are already "cheap", like $150 brand new, which is already cheap in the world of IM's

Im talking $100 for both the venom rail and intake.