Ok so today I started my headgasket removal and I just took off my timing belt. Now onto taking off my cam gears. I do not know how to make them stay still. I tied a hanger around them to possibly make them not move but it broke. Does anyone have a quick solution for me? I want to be done with this damn thing by the end f the day

Originally posted by denialchild45
Ok so today I started my headgasket removal and I just took off my timing belt. Now onto taking off my cam gears. I do not know how to make them stay still. I tied a hanger around them to possibly make them not move but it broke. Does anyone have a quick solution for me? I want to be done with this damn thing by the end f the day

I just did this a couple weeks ago. What I did was use a pair of channel locks and grabbed the inside of both gears together where they are the closest to each other to hold them in place while removing/installing the bolts. Not sure if that's the best description, but hopefully you can picture it.

whats a channel lock?

Originally posted by denialchild45
whats a channel lock?

Are you replacing the OEM gears with adjustables? If not, you don't need to remove them. Leave them where they are, remove the valve cover, and then remove the cam retainers. Then you can simply lift the cams - gears and all - out of the head for easy access to the head bolts.

Two important things to remember:
1. Double and triple check your head bolts for stretching before you re-use them. It's better to replace them with either new bolts from the dealership or, better yet, ARP studs, but you can re-use them if they're not stretched.
2. When removing the cam retainer caps, set them aside somewhere they will stay in order. It is critical that you re-install them exactly where they came off. They are numbered as well. You can also write on them with a marker if that's easier for you.

Good luck!

Originally posted by DR1665
Are you replacing the OEM gears with adjustables? If not, you don't need to remove them. Leave them where they are, remove the valve cover, and then remove the cam retainers. Then you can simply lift the cams - gears and all - out of the head for easy access to the head bolts.

...but if the rear timing cover is still on it might be a bit of a problem. Even though I just did this I can't remember but I thought there were a few bolts for the timing cover behind the cam gears.

Even if there aren't any bolts behind the gears, you still need to pull the cam gears off to get the timing cover off. Just pull the valve cover off and use a 1/4" drive extension in the notch in the cams. Once you pull the cams and align the motor to TDC or rotate the cams so the timing marks are in alignment you will see the notches.

I guess I should go find some batteries and my digi cam and go take pics of the spare head that I have here.

Originally posted by freelancefool
Just pull the valve cover off and use a 1/4" drive extension in the notch in the cams.

Absolutely brilliant. I've never actually done that, but I think that's even how the FSM details the process; perhaps with some kind of special tool.

On the cams, you will see a hole in each shaft when you remove the valve cover. Use a 1/4" extension (or maybe a screwdriver, I don't know - just be careful) to stick into the hole and keep the cam from moving while you break torque on the bolt at the gear.

I haven't had the cover on my timing belt in I don't know how many years. I still suspect, however, that one could remove the cam caps and then feed the cam through the holes in the rear of the cover if they couldn't lift completely straight up out of the head.

I don't get credit for that. Dino added it into my timing belt install write up. I agree it is a brilliant solution. I've used it once since then and it is by far the easiest way to tighten the cam gears. I just had a buddy hold the extension after I gave him a beer so I could get the car running.