ok guys well...i got my block rebuilt, and put back in...IT RUNS! but with an extremely high idle. when i first start it up, about 2 or 3 revs later it slowly climbs to 3000 rpms and hangs there. this car has been sitting for 2 months, so is it possible that is the ecu trying to relearn? or is it something else. i don't' wanna let it sit there on a fresh rebuilt engine because of any damage that could be done, but what kind of things should i look for? the guy at the parts store says check the TPS...Aaron says check for vac leaks...there anything else? any help would be great. thanks

-Ben

check your gaskets on you TB and intake manifold.....if theres a hole, itll suck in extra air....

an easy way to look for Vac leaks is to get the car running and start spraying around the manifold, throttle body, vacuum lines with some intake cleaner (mopar MCCC works good) if you spray a spot and the idle changes you know you've found the area the leak is in.

make sure the throttle cable is adjusted right. If you have it too tight then it will rev really high. This happend to me when I put my MP throttlebody on.

check pcv valve , throttle body stuff leakages, idle sensor, ,but it's mostly a leakage i think, and last but less likely crank angle sensor,

Sounds like a leak to me. Then again, your IAC could be on its way out too. Can't help you much there. First thing to do is rule out any leaks. You can do the spray trick, but I prefer to hold a lit cigarette around back there and see if the smoke gets pulled into the engine somewhere. If you don't smoke, you can use one of those incense things if your girl has some around.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll definitely try that tomorrow, but first I need to fix my oil leak. It keep spitting oil out around the area where the o-ring goes, like the seal isn't there or something. I put the o-ring in, but it still is leaking. So what we did (I know it probably isn't advised, but it is gonna have to get by) we put some JB Weld around the meeting points and that didn't hold, so we put some loctite cold weld and we are gonna let that sit overnight. It started spewing, and we have reduced it to a small squirt, so when that is taken care of and i can run my car for a few mins, we'll try the spray trick. Thanks again for all the advice.

-Ben

Originally posted by KnightHawk434th
Thanks for all the advice. I'll definitely try that tomorrow, but first I need to fix my oil leak. It keep spitting oil out around the area where the o-ring goes, like the seal isn't there or something. I put the o-ring in, but it still is leaking.

I've been there. I've done that. You will still have to pull that motor and reseal the bedplate. I know you don't want to do that. I know you don't have the time, the energy, or any more money, but if you don't fix this issue the right way, you're going to lose that motor as a result.





Does the o-ring you used look like the one in the first picture? We're most concerned with the size relative to the recessed area in which it sits. There are other o-rings in the kit that might look closer to the right size, but the proper seal is the fatty that wants to pop out.

Second, did you use the proper anaerobic sealant between the bedplate and block? If you used anything else, you absolutely have to pull that motor and redo it using the correct sealant. RTV won't cut it and might result in compromised bearing tolerances in addition to leaks. Not using anything would almost certainly mean leaks all over the place. The seal between the block and bedplate is one of the most critical and precise seals in the entire engine.

Last time I pulled a 420A out of a 2GNT, we did it in less than 3 hours (including a short lunch break). You don't get to be quick at removing engines without first getting good at being fucked by something like this after three days' hard work putting it all back together again.

Forget about the idle issue for now, man. You've got bigger fish to fry.

Lol I hear ya on that one DR. But I got some good news...I pinpointed the leak. I took off the plate and found this wonderful surprise.....It appears that the oil pump o-ring had fallen out of the oil pump on the meeting spot with the plate and gotten wedged between the block and the plate. That would explain the gap we had at the spot between the block and plate, and that would explain the oil spewing out of the pump meeting point with the plate. No pump seal and no plate seal....So here is a pic to show you what I'm saying and you guys can look for yourself, but I am gonna conclude....good thing we pulled the motor and that gasket is toast...time for a new one.



A couple of buddies of mine and I spent last night pulling that motor. We ended up pulling the motor with the crank pulley still attached and the flex plate still on, but unbolted and left the clutch in the bell housing. Took some thinking, and some prying to get it done, but it was done. We going to pick up my lower gasket SET from advance here in about 30-45 mins and put the bitch back together and hopefully get it all done right this last time. THEN we can work on that idle. Will keep posted on my discoveries. Thanks again everyone for all your help :)

-Ben

Originally posted by DR1665
Sounds like a leak to me. Then again, your IAC could be on its way out too. Can't help you much there. First thing to do is rule out any leaks. You can do the spray trick, but I prefer to hold a lit cigarette around back there and see if the smoke gets pulled into the engine somewhere. If you don't smoke, you can use one of those incense things if your girl has some around.

Probably one of the best posts i've read on here for so many reasons.

I have to do this on a friends car just to see the reaction if he does have a leak. Haha. Car has a real jumpy idle that hangs more often than not. He'd shit his pants if i used a cigarette to fix his car.