I am having a problem where my car idles poorly and stutters/hesitates on acceleration, occasionally accompanied with a backfire. This happened shortly after I washed the engine, so the problem is likely with a sensor or something.

- This doc might be the problem, haven't checked the numbers yet: http://www.2gnt.com/nttechtxt.htm#engine_idle

- I ran the codes and got a 12 (battery discconnect) and 43 (Ignition coil #1/#2 primary circuit).

- Engine has never stalled, just runs rough.

- I just changed the sparkplugs last night, and there was no improvement. A couple of them were quite oil soaked as well, so there may be a valve cover gasket issue to investigate.

Any other suggestions for what to look at? I'll try testing the TPS and ISC sensors tonight. Also, does anyone know offhand how much a new TPS costs from the dealer? Can these things be reconditioned yourself or is it non-serviceable?


juan

(My battery recently died, and blemishes are developing in the paint. Of course, all this stuff starts shortly after I paid off the car... :/ )

Check your plug wires. If you're getting a code for the #1/#2 ignition coil, you may just have a bad coil. Wyatt had/has a procedure for checking the coil of turbogs.com, and there may be a similar procedure in the service manual (link in latest announcement). I'd test that, too, along with replacing your plug wires.

Junkyard coils are cheap.. I have a spare TPS if you need it, too.

Let us know what you find.

I got the #1/#2 coil error by the computer hookup- is that supposed to trigger a CEL? because i didnt get one...

Evan B
97 GS
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

Sounds like a plug wire or coil pack problem to me. Might want to attend to that first. I'll be in Moreno Valley this weekend if you need a hand or need me to pick up parts from Norco Mitsu. Let me know.

kaiser

eclipsekaiser@aol.com

thanks for the offer, much appreciated!

I'm gonna get a new coil from Napa tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

juan

Hello....
Don't worry about that. I used to be like that after I washed the engine in my old car (CRX).
The water got inside the ignition coil (damp).
First time I had no idea what happen. I couldn't start my CAR at all after it acted like yours.
So, I parked it 1 days and tried to start it again next day and it worked, no problem.
The second time I washed the engine (CRX) again, the same situation happened.
SO, this time I opened the ignition coil and sprayed with WD40 in it.
Then It started as normal. That's my experience. You might try that.



2G UFO

i had the same problem. it was my coil.

I'll bet one katrillion dollars its just your plug wires. From what I heard its pretty unusual for coils to go.

Anyone know how much a replacement coil costs?

Evan B
97 GS
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

I measured the wires, and they seem to have practically no resistance. The Chiltons said they should be 8k ohms, but my tester is reading near 0. Of course I could be reading it wrong (gonna get a digital one today - any sources for decent ones that aren't expensive?).

juan

I had the same problem a couple weeks back accopanied with increasingly poor performance and backfiring. It was after i had changed the pcv valve. I thought that was it. I checked the plugs and wires and stuff, couldnt figure it out. I even switched the old pcv valve back in with no luck. Ended up taking it to Satan to get charged $180 for bosch 7mm wires and installation. I hate satan. But i guess on the bright side the car runs great now. I'd say check the wires.

brian

Just got a decent digital multimeter (everyone should have one of these BTW, mine was $30 at radio shack)

Wire resistances:
1 - 1.81 k
2 - 1.39 k
3 - 1.34 k
4 - 1.85 k

Secondary coil resistances
1-4 - 14.2 k
2-3 - 14.4 k

Chiltons says these are supposed to be 11.5-13.5 k, which isn't too far off.


Primary coil resistances
- I followed instructions in the Chiltons and get max resistance on all four coils.

Since the resistance is supposed to be betweem 0.51 and 0.61 ohms, I guess its shot? If so, I'm not sure why the car even runs at all.

Oh, and the #2 connector on the coil pack is greenish/oridized.

I'll try seeing where I can get a coil pack locally to see if it fixes the problem.


juan

Hey Juan, I also get the same symptoms, but every time I reset the ECU, it runs perfect (the bad idle and hesitation seems to be due to the ported and milled head, and I also always get code 43). Try resetting your ECU, and if it idles good, then I would bet it's one of your sensors for sure. I think when a sensor keeps giving the ECU bad signals, it starts to act up. My idle gets worse after a week after resetting the ECU. Also, are you going to the meet this Saturday at speedzone? If so, would you mind bringing your digital multimeter. I want to check a couple things just to make sure also. Good luck.

Hey Marcus. I forgot there was a meet today, so I won't be able to make it. Sorry bout that, you're welcome to use the multimeter anytime. Just so you know, I got it for $30 on sale at Radio Shack, and has a cool display. Definitely better than the $10 analogue one I had before.

juan

Put on some cheap wires, and the problem is fixed! Car purrs and revs like it used to.


Note to all, try to be absolutely sure you need a new part before buying it. And call around for the lowest price on regular components.

Here's the story. Got a new ignition coil from Napa (dealer part was $230, $140 from PepBoys w 5 day wait due to the holiday). Problem - it doesnt use the same connector! You have to cut off the one from your wiring harness and splice in the one they provide. Very lame. Instead, I just MacGyvered it in with alligator clips and duct tape so I could try it out without cutting anything. No improvement. So I decided to call around for new plug wires anyways and found some for $37 at the local Star auto parts. Put em in, and sure enough the problem was fixed! This is strange, as the wires all tested fine individually.

One thing you may not know, and I certainly didn't, is that Napa will not return electrical parts once installed. Fsckers. So now I have a $90 replacement coil I don't need. Oh well, at least the car works. This whole thing would have cost me prolly $400 at the dealer, so I guess its ok. At least I had a reason to by a nice digital multimeter.


For you oldtimers, I now only have one Mutiny part left on the car, the bored TB. The Magnecores I had were the ones from Ronnie's car.

juan

Hey Juan, the meet is actually next saturday, dec. 29. Will you be able to make it? I honestly have no idea how to use a multimeter as I never payed attention in physics hehe. I think that's where they taught us circuits etc. Hope you can make the meet...

multimeter are pretty easy to read specially if you have a service manual and know what you need to measure, ohms kherts etc. the fluke ones have a lil dial you can turn to what you wanna measure and just touch a connector with the probe and it reads. pretty sweet