I hate life right now, three months later and this thing has taken like 30 bolts and stripped a set (bolt and metal piece) of harmonic pulley pullers. I even lost a bolt inside the crank sproket and it's stripping out...


So I have two questoins guys.. 1. Has anyone successfully cut off a crank sproket? Just a metal cut wheel on a dremel or drill do the trick?

Also It's taking forever and I want to preserve my crank/bearings. There was talk about spraying wd40 all over. I want to make sure it would be safe to spray bpblaster (same type of agent) all over the crank ect while I'm taking my sweet ass time putting this thing together.

Is that a good idea? Or just wait and it should be ok?

thanks for the help guys

Peace and love

Nick
97RS

It may be too late but tell me you used a puller that looks like this:

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4859997

Not a 3 jaw, but a "stubby" one. If not, try it you'll like it. Otherwise at this point I would use heat (with some water ready to put out the timing belt fire :shrug )

Hey Thx for the advice man. It's the sproket so I need to use the harmonic balancer puller, unless that works on the sprocket too???



I didn't use an impact at first which I think is what did me in because the bolts bend. One bent and broke off inside so I drilled it out, tried to tap but it stripped my tap. I can get the bolt in that spot now but it'll hold only for so long. I've torched it, pb blasted, impacted.
I'm going to get hardened longer bolts online and I guess my only other option is to cut it off.

Is it a cast iron piece?

Anyone have suggestions on cutting it off? Cutting wheels that are kick ass, ect?

thx, soooo frustrating

Nick
97RS

Yes, you need grade 10 bolts (8mm x1.0 thread) and they should be 12 - 14 cm long. The problem is sourcing those. If you had that to begin with, and heated the sprocket before trying, you probably would have been able to get that the first day. I totally feel for you man - that sprocket is probably the most difficult thing to work with on the car (and I thought the timing belt cover/engine mount issue was a headache, ha ha then it was the crank pulley!!!)

If you find a place online where you can order those grade-10 bolts, please post it too.

Originally posted by ez
Yes, you need grade 10 bolts (8mm x1.0 thread) and they should be 12 - 14 cm long. The problem is sourcing those.

That's 120-140cm long. LONG. And they're M6 (6mmx1.0) Near impossible to find.

McMaster Carr carries them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?reqtyp=catalog&CtlgPgNbr=3077&sesnextrep=777610758268953&CtlgEdition=113&k1=91287A266&t1=PN&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1073#scroll

91287A266 - 140mm
91287A264 - 130mm
91287A262 - 120mm

Originally posted by Collente
Hey Thx for the advice man. It's the sproket......

Damn, sorry. Reading comprehension > me :wallbash

hey man its ok, a few years ago i busted a bolt off in there trying to change my TB when i did my crank pulley, I ended up pressure sealing the pulley on there and it lasted me until my engine died haha, but now its time to get a new crank for the rebuild...good luck!

Originally posted by bullettdsm
It may be too late but tell me you used a puller that looks like this: http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4859997 Not a 3 jaw, but a "stubby" one. If not, try it you'll like it. Otherwise at this point I would use heat (with some water ready to put out the timing belt fire :shrug )

I ordered one of these on eBay, I think it was from Miller Tools. That is the factory spec tool to get the sprocket off. Mine came with the bolts as well. I used my impact on it, and it came right off.

found em..

Grade 10.9 at 100mm (just under 4in) I hope to god these work!
and they are 6mx1.0 btw not 8m.

Here's the link: http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=22&cd=1327


Nick
97RS

Good luck to you, Nick! I know some guys in the rally world who rig up a liquid nitrogen "Death Ray" to freeze and quickly remove sound deadening material (tar) from the chassis before final paint. I wonder if anyone has ever tried freezing the pulley before removal...? :wary

Wish I could offer more. That thing is a major bitch.

Originally posted by DR1665
I wonder if anyone has ever tried freezing the pulley before removal...? :wary Wish I could offer more. That thing is a major bitch.

Why would they? Dolt.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by DR1665 I wonder if anyone has ever tried freezing the pulley before removal...? :wary Wish I could offer more. That thing is a major bitch.

Why would they? Dolt.

hahahahaha 1-0

It's just something for discussion. Grease monkeys take a torch to things to heat them up. The way it works is by the two different metals expanding at different rates. This offers an advantage where you can more easily overcome inertia, freeing the stuck part.

AT THE SAME TIME, this dolt believes that freezing a part (and I don't mean rolling the car into a meat locker), it's tendency is to shrink, meaning the sprocket might be pulling away from the crank. Much like how Energy Suspension advises freezing the individual urethane bushings prior to pressing them into their new homes. When they heat back up, they expand, making the clearances tighter.

Aside from "How would you go about freezing a sprocket on the crank?" What is so far fetched about my idea?

I had to use a torch to cut mine off, which was very nerve racking. I you decide to use heat, replacing the oil pump seal could save you some head-aches in the future (leaks). As for putting the new one on, throw that sucker in the oven on 400 and bake for 15 min, then serve it up before it cools.

If you use the puller that bullettdsm showed the picture of it will come off easily.
If you use the regular 3jar you will have problems.
Its as simple as that.

No need for grade 10 bolts. no need for heat. Just get the right puller.

Originally posted by DR1665
What is so far fetched about my idea?

Cold contracts. Why would you want to further adhere the pully to the crank, genius? That'd make it HARDER to remove.

Originally posted by DR1665
It's just something for discussion. Grease monkeys take a torch to things to heat them up. The way it works is by the two different metals expanding at different rates. This offers an advantage where you can more easily overcome inertia, freeing the stuck part. AT THE SAME TIME, this dolt believes that freezing a part (and I don't mean rolling the car into a meat locker), it's tendency is to shrink, meaning the sprocket might be pulling away from the crank. Much like how Energy Suspension advises freezing the individual urethane bushings prior to pressing them into their new homes. When they heat back up, they expand, making the clearances tighter. Aside from "How would you go about freezing a sprocket on the crank?" What is so far fetched about my idea?

Heat up something with a hole, like a ring... does the hole get bigger or smaller?

BIG.

perfect example of having good intentions, wrong information. Or atleast the wrong interpretation of it. Its ok Driggs, better to find out now.