at the moment i have a 4-1 stainless header on my 98 rs. im probably throwing a 4-2-1 on it in the next month, do ceramic headers have any benefit over stainless ones? i assume temp would be a major difference......

i retarded the timing slightly, adjusted my injecters and injector timing, steel head and valve cover gasket, re-geared first, and third gear. exhaust and top end work, HUGE booost in low-mid end performance. a 4-2-1 header will give some extra improvement but will a ceramic 4-2-1 do any better?

The belief is that a 4-2-1 will give better low-end torque, but you'll lose a little out of the top.

Cermic coating is a temperature control device. It will reduce underhood temps by not allowing the heat out of the header. You seem to be smart enough to know that it won't reduce it to the point that you can touch the header with your hand while the car is running, but there are some that don't get that :shrug . Anywho, since the heat is not escaping into the engine compartment, that in turn means that it's staying in the header, which will help to increase the scavenging effect of the exhaust system. If you are running a cat. then you would benefit even more from having the flex pipe coated as well, this will keep as much heat in the pre-cat system as possible, reducing the chance of creating a cold pocket between the header and cat (read; backpressure). You can accomplish this by wrapping the header and pipe with heat-wrap as well, it will do the same thing, but it just won't be as pretty.

Originally posted by Keith2172
The belief is that a 4-2-1 will give better low-end torque, but you'll lose a little out of the top. Cermic coating is a temperature control device. It will reduce underhood temps by not allowing the heat out of the header. You seem to be smart enough to know that it won't reduce it to the point that you can touch the header with your hand while the car is running, but there are some that don't get that :shrug . Anywho, since the heat is not escaping into the engine compartment, that in turn means that it's staying in the header, which will help to increase the scavenging effect of the exhaust system. If you are running a cat. then you would benefit even more from having the flex pipe coated as well, this will keep as much heat in the pre-cat system as possible, reducing the chance of creating a cold pocket between the header and cat (read; backpressure). You can accomplish this by wrapping the header and pipe with heat-wrap as well, it will do the same thing, but it just won't be as pretty.

Agreed, but there is nothing "advanced tuning" about this. Please post in performance section.

Thanks,
MB

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Agreed, but there is nothing "advanced tuning" about this. Please post in performance section. Thanks, MB

Agreed

Moved

*EDIT*

But I would like to hear about how you adjusted you injectors and there timing. And the metal valve cover gasket intriges me too.

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Schnitz/ho01.asp

i do alot of work on sport harleys and some forign pro-class bikes. the unit that the link shows is similar to what i came across for cars. ...only its about twice the cost ad twice the size. hook it up to your car, and it records EVERYTHING going on in there, then hook it up to your computer (usb obviously) and edit whatever you want, then purge the new data into your cars comp. its how we set up drag bikes all the time. whatever timing you set your comp to run at you need ot make the adjustments on your timing pully, whatever degrees adv or retarded from top dead center. i like the sliglty retarded timing, give me a huge torque boost in my bottom end.

the adjustments to the injectors were done through the comp, just injector timing and duration adjustments.....still stock injectors, im lookn for a high end rail/injector set up...

one thing i learned form years of drag racing is that low end torque beats high end r's any day in the 1/4mile. rarly do i run a gear in my car out past 6k, normally its between 4.5 and 5.5k for a shift, for this i find low-mid range performance a must. but 1/4 mile is usually fist till 5.5 second till 5.5 maybe even 6k then 3rd gear the rest of the way...... my third gear runs from 8 to 85 mph (85 at 6k)

the steel valve cover gasket i made yself 1/16th inch aluminum/sheet metal, cut it out rough then used a CandC machene to perfect it. I had so much pressure in my top end that i was blowing the valve cover gasket once every 3 months or so. slapped that baby on with some yello snot (super sticky yellow gasket sealing shit.....harder to get off then silicone...) and bam....no more leaked or blowouts.


but hey thanks for the ceramic info! never worked with them before.....now i gotta try one out...

Originally posted by uber_nny
the adjustments to the injectors were done through the comp, just injector timing and duration adjustments.....still stock injectors,

You must be running an aftermarket ECU, if you are not then let me be the first to call a big fat BS. As of yet no one has hacked the ECU, nor really cared too much because it's too easy to slap a stand-alone in there and call it done.

If you have by some wonder hacked and altered the ECU, then I humbly retract previous BS statement and bow my head before God and his 2GNT.




P.S. If said yellow glue you used on the head happens to be Gorrila Snot, and you ever, say, blow the motor, do your machinist a favor and toss it in the trash heap to start over, that shit never does come off, even in the kiln and shot peener.

i am equally intrigued about this ecu program/flash.
and i am assuming your talking about a CNC machine for the cover gasket.

Originally posted by uber_nny
...cut it out rough then used a CandC machene to perfect it. I had so much pressure in my top end that i was blowing the valve cover gasket once every 3 months or so.

First off, its a C.N.C. "Machine" (computerized numeric control). I am a CNC machinist so its just something that bugs me,lol. Second, you're building that much pressure under your VC? I sure hope you have your PCV system still intact. Its there for more than just emissions ya know. Either that or your oil pressure has to be through the roof!

as much as i'd like to say i did .......i aint gonna spend the time to hack the cars friggn comp. shit.....the newer sport 2cyl comps are near impossible if its even do-able.

no way in hell is it gorilla snot, i have a tube of this yellow shit in my shop, not near close enough to grab it. its aparently a super stront adhesive/"liquid" gasket, nothing liquid about it. i run a small bead down on both sides of a gasket when i find it to be applicable. (ie oil pans, bottom ends, between the top and bottom end, etc.....oh yeah and MY F*CKING VALVE COVER GASKET)crap comes right off with a razorblade when its time prep the gasket surface for a new one.

i didnt think of it till about a month or 2 ago but i bought a gague and the sensor for the oil pressure, havnt had the motivation to install it but now that you mention it...........

as far as i know..... around here anyways......most of the 96-98 eclipses (all cept spyders) and talons have wierd ass top ends. Ive had oil caps go missing while people are driving, leakes or gasket blowouts on the valve cover and probably one or 2 other wierd ass things................oh yeah.....had someone melt a spark plug wire on their top end.......they didnt understand the importance of engine coolant.....probably still dont

just ordered a 4-2-1 ceramic coated header system (header all the way to the cat) thanks for the info! i'll let you know how it turns out.