Ok, heres the deal. The gauge cluster has a 10amp fuse under the drivers side steering wheel. I was driving one day and it blew on me. I was like holy shit, no RPM's, no Speed, stock TEMP. gauge gone and power windows / Cruise control all dead. As im looking around trying to see what works and doesnt work I notice my Air/Fuel ratio gauge off and my boost controller down also. Lights work and everything. I was able to get home because of my turbo timer and s-afc. turbo timer = speed, s-afc = rpms. =) Once I get home I start the search for fuses and I finally find it. I put a 10amp back in there and as soon as I put it in reverse to go out again and hit the gas to move the guages go out again. WTF!!! I have the air/fuel gauge and boost contoller powered off those lines but grounded to the chassis so of course they go. I dont have any more 10amps so I put a 15amp in there and 2 minutes down the road it blows. WTF!!! I put in a 20amp and 15 minutes later it blows. OMFG, WTF is with this thing. I put a 30amp in there and its fine now, hasnt blown again for a couple days. Can a 30amp fuse hurt the car if a 10amp should be there??? I know it has to be the boost controller causing all these gay problems because I have had 3 gauges and a tach there at once before I was turbo'd. But what is wierd, is it took a month of a boost controller being there to blow it and now it blows it as soon as i put a 10amp in there. Whats up with that???? Any help would be great!!

bro,
unless you want to burn up some shit I would put in a fuse 3 times the cap. of what it was rated for. you are going to burn up some wires if you keep that in there. 1. either you are drawing too many amps from you aftermarket gauges or somehow you have a short. I would find an alternate power source for you electronic gauges and then put back the 10amp fuse and see if it blows. If it doesn't blow than you know your gauges caused the problem. If it still pops you have a short somewhere and you will need to troubleshoot the electrical.

It has to be the boost controller because like I said this never happened until I put hte boost controller on and I had a tach and a bunch of other gauges before that. Now only 1 electric gauge and the boost controller so it has to be that.

Take out the 30 amp!!!! You can easily damage your wiring with that in there. Do what icedout said, and put back in the 10 amp, and use a separate circuit for all of your guages...

ok, heres what I ended up doing. I took out the 30amp and put a 10amp back in. It blew so I replaced it again and re-did the boost controller wiring. This time the power sourse is the head lights which has a much bigger fuse I believe. The boost controller will only get power when the parking lights/head lights are on which is cool because I only boost at 5-6psi most of the time. The really cool thing is I have it set at 10psi so instead of buying the button to switch from low to high boost. I just turn on my headlights if its during the day. At night the boost controller is off unless im gonna race then its at 10psi. I like it, took it out for a spin and nothing blew but I didnt find a race to test it either so, maybe tomorrow

Sounds like you found the problem. My choice when dealing with any external elctronics is to tap them to a totally seperate fused didstribution panel just like you do with your stereo. The fuses in the stock spots are rated for the stock equipment. It's always a touchy thing when you start adding things on. I have all my gauges and add-ons going to a seperate fuse block in the back so they don't interfere with anything else. Just a smaller piece of mind to make sure that your not gonna drop something major in mid-race.