Alright.....posted about 2 weeks ago about my engine. I spun my bearings and screwed up my crank. Well, i got it replaced...new bearings...and fixed the crank. The guy fixing it for me was out test driving it today, to make sure it was totaly fixed. Well......after driving it for about 5 mins he said it started knocking again, just like it was doing before he fixed the bearings and crank. He is going to crack the engine back open tomorrow and take a look. What do you guys think it might be this time??

Buy a new crank, the crank was damaged when the bearing spun and is going to cause the bearings to break in incorrectly and they will spin again. Trust me, I am on my 2nd shortblock and 3rd crank due to spun bearings, all covered under warranty of course. The first time I spun it I paid a mechanic to change the bearings and he measured the crank and it was only .003 inches out of spec so he figured it would be okay. The car ran fine for about a week then started knocking and threw a rod about a week later. Cranks are cheap, $300ish, I would suggest buying a new one.


current status unknown

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Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono