I'm going to replace my Alternator, at Advance they have them for 220w/ core exchange. Is there a place have them less than that.

Also, was wondering is there performance/stronger Drive and powersteering belts out there.

I'm planning to put an Light weight UDP, Bomz or UR. What else should I replace when changing these. My timing belt/etc. is alright but will be change in the near future, I heard Greddy timing belts are very strong last long and won't break has you guys used them. Your thoughts about them I ya could. What better quality timing compents instead of ones at Napa/advance ?? :scratch

look in the main page, use the link Mods & tech info. Go to the engien section and look up the writeup for the belts.

With an underdrive pulley you will be using smaller belts. The best belt you can go with is a Gatorback belt by goodyear. Others tend to squeel at times, gatorback appears to be the most forgiving belt.

Do not overtighten the belts, your motor with throw them or shred them.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
look in the main page, use the link Mods & tech info. Go to the engien section and look up the writeup for the belts. With an underdrive pulley you will be using smaller belts. The best belt you can go with is a Gatorback belt by goodyear. Others tend to squeel at times, gatorback appears to be the most forgiving belt. Do not overtighten the belts, your motor with throw them or shred them. Terry

Cool, thanks. :thumbsup

Dale

i have a cuple spare alt's laying around there all good id let one go for like 50 bucks if u want one

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
look in the main page, use the link Mods & tech info. Go to the engien section and look up the writeup for the belts. With an underdrive pulley you will be using smaller belts. The best belt you can go with is a Gatorback belt by goodyear. Others tend to squeel at times, gatorback appears to be the most forgiving belt. Do not overtighten the belts, your motor with throw them or shred them. Terry

This from the write up in Mods/tech section
p/s, a/c belt
Bando- 5pk1270
gates- k050500
dayco- 5050500
goodyear- 4050500
day/pl- 500k5

which one is the power steering and the A/c
Guy at advance said I only have two 1 for alter. and 1 power steering.

My 97 DSM GS has CruiseControl, A/c more than a 99 GS

So, is a 99 GS diff./better than 97 GS

Originally posted by dalesmitsu
is a 99 GS diff./better than 97 GS

Okay man. Let's get on the team and start using punctuation so others can better understand what we're asking. :thumbsup

There might be a couple frivolous differences between a 97 and 99 GS, but they're still the same car. Neither is better than the other. Your biggest concern right now should be researching how to get the alternator out of the engine bay. It's always a nightmare your first time.

Why do you feel you need to replace it, anyway?

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by dalesmitsu is a 99 GS diff./better than 97 GS

Okay man. Let's get on the team and start using punctuation so others can better understand what we're asking. :thumbsup There might be a couple frivolous differences between a 97 and 99 GS, but they're still the same car. Neither is better than the other. Your biggest concern right now should be researching how to get the alternator out of the engine bay. It's always a nightmare your first time. Why do you feel you need to replace it, anyway?

Well, I bought it Jan. the belts look pretty worn cause it sat in a garage before I bought it.

I took my car to have it tested, battery/starte and alternator. at Advance, he said both are to go out soon, idles are off. Plus, I could tell way it turns overand I've had experience with my old car.

Leave the alternator alone, replace the belt and replace your battery. Advance auto does not have the tool to test the alternator while its in the car, they cant test the starter either.

If you want the starter and Alternator tested call a few shops and ask them if they have a Snap-ON Microvat or equivelant to load test the alternator.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Leave the alternator alone, replace the belt and replace your battery.

I concur. Only after replacing the more commonly failing components should you consider replacing the more difficult parts. My alternator is ten years old, has powered the car for just under 190k miles, and has had two separate sound systems pulling on it - one at 800W and the other at 2000W - it's holding up just fine. The belt chirps a bit when the brake lights go on at night at idle, but it's lasted a good long time...

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Leave the alternator alone, replace the belt and replace your battery.

I concur. Only after replacing the more commonly failing components should you consider replacing the more difficult parts. My alternator is ten years old, has powered the car for just under 190k miles, and has had two separate sound systems pulling on it - one at 800W and the other at 2000W - it's holding up just fine. The belt chirps a bit when the brake lights go on at night at idle, but it's lasted a good long time...

Oh, wow no shit, that's alot of power DR1665(Doctor Dsm) lol..

I figure the alternator, would go out runnig all that juice

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Leave the alternator alone, replace the belt and replace your battery. Advance auto does not have the tool to test the alternator while its in the car, they cant test the starter either. If you want the starter and Alternator tested call a few shops and ask them if they have a Snap-ON Microvat or equivelant to load test the alternator. Terry

Are you sure about this, Sorry I'm not some teenager with an DSM. I'm 30 haha. I think you should double-check again.
I've replaced my battery when I first bought it, and advance in my town did test the starter/alternator my car.

It don't matter I'm changing both the starter cause way it sarts up. and alternator cause lights etc. are dimmed its not the bulbs.

As for the belts, well when Bought her it was 102,000 on mileage in Jan 06, they have 10k on both and they squeel real bad, when washer and start her in the morning moister, also real bad when it rains.
I think we all noticed this with dayco belts, Gator/goodyear resist to this moister on them.

Ah yeah you could say i am 1000.00 sure. Would you like a picture of the tools used for this sort of testing?

Gee your 30? wow you must be the oldest guy here :rolleyes You post like a 16year old, quit it.

NEVER, EVER trust what advance/pepboys/Vatozone has to say when testing charging starting system equipment.


Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Ah yeah you could say i am 1000.00 sure. Would you like a picture of the tools used for this sort of testing? Gee your 30? wow you must be the oldest guy here :rolleyes You post like a 16year old, quit it. NEVER, EVER trust what advance/pepboys/Vatozone has to say when testing charging starting system equipment. Terry

The guy used a tester, for the battery and hooked it up to the alternator and he had me rev. my egnie to 2,000 rpm or so. He said it was off. So, now I'm guessing it my timing then.
The cough,cough shop that chagned my waterpump and timing belt had to file on of the teeth on the timing gear.

I'll stop,typing like 16year old. I don't look like I'm 30.. lol

Valve timing has nothing to do with your alternator. All the shop did was test for amperage and voltage while you reved it. That testing was fine in 1992. If the battery is bad then both numbers while reving the car will not be trustworthy IMO. Never diagnose an alternator when the battery is bad. Always replace the battery and continue testing.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Valve timing has nothing to do with your alternator. All the shop did was test for amperage and voltage while you reved it. That testing was fine in 1992. If the battery is bad then both numbers while reving the car will not be trustworthy IMO. Never diagnose an alternator when the battery is bad. Always replace the battery and continue testing. Terry

My battery is new ?