Hi Kareem, Whew! where do I start?
I notice you are having a major problem with your set up.
here is some of the things I think you can change to make your car more drivable.

1st get rid of the injectors, get some Accel 24# injectors, Accel has the best spray pattern even at low fuel pressures if you need to pull some fuel.

2nd you have way too much compression if you are running 110 octane and still getting pinging.

Only way to properly use that much compression is if you have really big cams in the 280 to 300 degree advertised duration.

But most stock or even AFX pcm's have problems with cams above 260 degree duration because of the low vacuum signal at low rev ranges.

3rd it appears you still have your catalytic comverter still on, with that much compression and big cams it will definently hurt and make the motor run hot.

Run a resonator and the most freeflow muffler you can find.
If you get the Accel injectors turn the fuel pressure up to 45 psi and tune from there.

4th your goal of 300 whp is not very realistic, because you would have to spin around 9600 rpm to get those numbers and some giant cams, not to mention standalone computer.

If you are getting a standalone, that will help you out tremendously but tuning, to straighten it out will take a loooong time on the dyno.
Even then your compression ratio might still be a problem.

There was a neon org member that tried a similar set up to yours and was told that if he coated everything, he could drive it on pump gas or at least 100 octane.
The Neon vendor sold him coated everthing , piston tops, skirts, valves,exhaust ports and combustion chambers.
Car pinged right above idle and everywhere else for that matter, not even 100 octane cured it.

If you are not getting a standalone and have to rely on a stock or stock based computer, lower the compression, with your head milled .030 you are well within the 12.5 range if not higher.

How big will your custom race cam be? duration will play a key factor in weather or not you should keep your current ratio.

5th if your cam is going to have a lift of .532, you will definatly need a custom valve spring retainer and springs.

that much lift at low speeds will give you a lot of reversion if you keep your cat.

Not knowing your intended cams size I can only give you this advise, lower your compression ratio.
You can take out the piston and have them shaved .050, the Wiseco's are notorious for having thick domes.

You can also lower the compression by modifying the combustion chambers in the cylinder head, it can get you down in the 11 to 1 or 11.5 to one area depending on your cams you are going to use.

lastly it appears you got bit by the bigger is better bug and got a little carried away in your selection of parts and now, as you can see the car is a pain to drive , isn't it?... and not very reliable.

Whoever is building your motor or advising you on the selection of parts seems to have be experimenting with new ideas with your car, just like the Neon owner that drove 300 miles from the Neon vendors "performance" shop all the way back home with his car pinging every step of the way.

If working with 12.5 compression and giant cams on a street vehicle was your goal , then you should have started with a standalone and dyno tuned every step of the way.

If you go that route, take it to the dyno right away, even forged piston can melt..............
Eddy Fierro