Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
ok Cas if the relays are clicking over and all the results you just posted are correct, then go to the pump and check for power. 2 wires at the pump one is ground the other is 12v. use your test light. Make sure you put the negative lead of the meter/test light on the chassis ground when you test for 12v pos. If you have 12v then take the negative lead and touch it to the ground wire at the plug to the fuel pump. (Keep in mind the pump only gets power for 2 secs when turned on so Maria will need to keep turning off the car for 10 secs as you change probes around. If you have power at the pump then you have a bad pump. I have many i can ship you.

The first thing I did was tried what Dino suggested, grounding that white/red stripe wire to the chassis...all I did was splice in a wire to the chassis. Turned the key on, and the pump ran continuous. After that it didn't work again...no fuses are blown. That seemed very odd to me...and made me think even more that it is a intermittent pump failure...plus I can hear all the relays clicking over...as well as getting 12v from the black/blue stripe and black/red stripe wires at the FP relay's socket.

Appears that I have volts at the pump. I tested it once, and it flashed 6-7 volts, I waited 10 seconds and tested again, and got 11 volts that time, third time it was back between 6-8 volts. Then I tested at the plug itself after confirming 12v from the hot wire (pos lead on connector where black/blue stripe goes, neg lead on connectors ground at the plug.) It flashed for 2 sec 6-8 volts.

At this point I'm considering a pump failure, or its a broken wire somewhere which is going to suck diggin through that to find it.

If you wanna send me that fuel pump Terry I'll drop ya 10 bucks to cover the shipping.