Update; I checked the clutch pedal mounting location again and in fact, there are two mounting positions available. The one I installed the switch to was a closed,(switch pushed in) with pedal out position, So I took it out,(PIA), and remounted it to the front mounting location, which was open,(switch plunger out), with pedal out position. This allowed starting and running the vehicle and required pushing the clutch in to start vehicle. Good call my friend. For future swappers, this would be good info in the wiki. As to the source of my manual info I downloaded this "manual" which was 2100 pages, plus a 540 page electrical supplement, but I noticed every single page has the words, "TSB Revisions" at the bottom captioned in a box. I don't know the significance of that except that it is obviously revised info from some other unrevised edition. I tried to capture a page with the backup light circuit for you to look at but it is in adobe pdf. It was 17.00 bucks or so and it 's helped a lot, but now I'm wondering what's missing that's not helping at all? One other observation for all considering this. When I went to the pullapart to scavenge parts for this car I pulled a lower member and front trans-mount from the same model year 95 with factory 5 speed. It was in much better condition than the existing member, so I brought it home. When I was ready to install it I laid the two members side by side just to make sure they were the same. They were not. The replacement unit was 1 and 1/2 inches shorter than the unit that was on the car with the AT. So I didn't use the shorter because I knew the other one fit, but when I started and ran the car there was a lot of vibration throughout the interior and the front mount was quite contorted by the time it was buttoned up. I'm going to swap for the shorter member to see if this corrects those issues. Mainly because I don't think the front mount would last very long the way it's out of shape. Any thoughts on that? I'll keep you posted.