Sry for digging out this old thread but atm I have 2 options and need your opinion:

Option 1 is getting 1 gallon of Mopar ATF+4 for 44 bucks. I can use 2 quarts for my tranny and the other 2 for flushing and refilling my power steering system.

Option 2 is getting 2 quarts of "Ravenol" syncromesh manual transmission fluid and 2 quarts of Mopar ATF+4 seperately for my PS-system.

Ravenol (german brand) states to meet Chrysler MS-9417 classification and lists the NV 350T transmission. That sounds pretty good, but nobody that I know ever tested this stuff in a NV350T. Can I trust the unknown syncromesh fluid or should I stick to Mopar ATF fluid? Costs would be the same, but I don't know if in general special syncromesh fluid is better than ATF.

I've never run ATF in the power steering system, but detergents aside, hydraulic fluid is hydraulic fluid, so I can't imagine it would be detrimental.

Many of the posters here swear by synchromesh. We don't have Revenol in the States that I am aware of, but if the manufaturer lists the T350 as an application, I imagine it would work just fine. The primary concern is friction modifiers for the paper syncho material, which most off-the-shelf manual transmission fluids don't contain.

Thanks Dino for seperating the post :)

Oh, I guess I missunderstood something. I googled for 420a power steering fluid and there was a guy who claimed to use Dexron II ATF. He even said it's listed in his owner's manual but I couldn't find that part. Everybody seems to use normal power steering fluid so I'll stick to that.

I recommend (and use) Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 (5w-30 in colder climates) synthetic engine oil in all of my rebuilds. Hasn't let me down yet.

Originally posted by chipdogg
I recommend (and use) Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 (5w-30 in colder climates) synthetic engine oil in all of my rebuilds. Hasn't let me down yet.

I have personally destroyed synchronizers running Mobil 1 in the T350. It lacks any sort of friction modifier.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by chipdogg I recommend (and use) Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 (5w-30 in colder climates) synthetic engine oil in all of my rebuilds. Hasn't let me down yet.

I have personally destroyed synchronizers running Mobil 1 in the T350. It lacks any sort of friction modifier.

How were they "destroyed"? What failed on them? I've run it for past 8 years and have had 0 issues. Ed Peters ran it in his road race cars.

It's 99% the same as the original Mopar $18/qt fluid according to Ed after being given the breakdown of it.

No "friction modifier" is needed, it has the proper frictional coefficiency for the fibride material. There's no brass synchros in any, unless you have an earlier one with the 1-2 brass synchros.

The paper was out of spec after 6-7k miles, saw excessive wear on the synchro teeth too. Started popping out of gear in 3-4.

I'm not saying you're wrong to suggest it as obviously your evidence contradicts mine, just noting what I saw in one of the many failures i've caused :thumbsup

Were they synchros brand new? I don't see much where of the synchro teeth, but it can be one cause of gear pop out if they lose their taper that locks them into place. Of course if the shift pads are worn/missing or you have shifter cable issues, they won't engage all the way and it can cause premature wear on the teeth.

Same goes for the fibride material, if you have a clutch release issue (may not be noticeable to driver) they can wear faster.

Was it a new trans or remanned? By who? A buddy of mine bought a "reman" from a Chrysler dealer and within 2 months it grinded 3rd gear. Fibride completely worn. Since he opened it to install phantom grip, it voided warranty so I changed it. Shouldn't have failed that quickly, my guess is they "remanned" it but didn't replace every wear item so it failed early.