I put an FX300 clutch and flywheel on and that all went smoothly enough. Now I've been wrestling with getting the transmission back on. I took every mount off of it and even tried raising the engine a little. Is there something I'm missing? Also I think I messed my shit up because there's a little trans fluid leaking from where the drivers half shaft would go.

Originally posted by teiger
I put an FX300 clutch and flywheel on and that all went smoothly enough. Now I've been wrestling with getting the transmission back on. I took every mount off of it and even tried raising the engine a little. Is there something I'm missing? Also I think I messed my shit up because there's a little trans fluid leaking from where the drivers half shaft would go.

No worries there. If you angle her just so, more fluid could flow out.

Just a little confused. You do have a modular set-up on there correct? That doesn't get bolt on until you have the tranny mated to the block; then you bolt it up to the flexplate.

I originally had a modular(all one piece, I had them confused) that bolted to the plate with the started gears. The new one combines that with the flywheel just like on the 4g63. So that little handy access plate becomes useless and you lose almost 2 inches? to work with. I got a really nice deal on a normally $800 setup and I had no idea the design would be different.

I'm basically just doing this conversion....
http://www.2gnt.com/?d=Non_Modular_VS_Modular_Clutch

I would just put the old one back on since it worked fine but it had a lot of oil on it from my valve cover gasket leaking, and it had a little glazing. I'm pretty sure it's the original and my car is almost at 160k

Originally posted by teiger
I'm basically just doing this conversion.... http://www.2gnt.com/?d=Non_Modular_VS_Modular_Clutch

Ah, ok. So you have a non-modular. Yes, that's a little trickier to get in. What you need to is angle the back part of the tranny (where the diff is) up a little to get it over the cross member (while leaving the nose of the tranny -where the driverside mount is- a little low). Then you start to bring the nose of the tranny (where the driverside mount is) up to mate to the block. But I don't worry about the bolt holes at this point. I just watch for the input shft going into place.

Once its there (it is a little bit easier to lower the flywheel side of the block- just a little), I then twist the tranny up to match the bolt holes.

One thing I also do (whether mod or not), is a take a piece of duct tape and tape the throw out bearing pivot arm to the tranny mount bracket, so that I won't acidentally push it around and lose the throw out bearing position.

I've gotten pretty good at the manuvuer over the years, but it is a bit tricky at first (like the passenger side motor mount when doing the timing belt)

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by teiger I'm basically just doing this conversion.... http://www.2gnt.com/?d=Non_Modular_VS_Modular_Clutch

Ah, ok. So you have a non-modular. Yes, that's a little trickier to get in. What you need to is angle the back part of the tranny (where the diff is) up a little to get it over the cross member (while leaving the nose of the tranny -where the driverside mount is- a little low). Then you start to bring the nose of the tranny (where the driverside mount is) up to mate to the block. But I don't worry about the bolt holes at this point. I just watch for the input shft going into place. Once its there (it is a little bit easier to lower the flywheel side of the block- just a little), I then twist the tranny up to match the bolt holes. One thing I also do (whether mod or not), is a take a piece of duct tape and tape the throw out bearing pivot arm to the tranny mount bracket, so that I won't acidentally push it around and lose the throw out bearing position. I've gotten pretty good at the manuvuer over the years, but it is a bit tricky at first (like the passenger side motor mount when doing the timing belt)

Agreed. Second time is infinitely easier.

Way that went easiest last time was prop the bell housing up on your stomach as you are laying on your back, then kinda roll with the trans while having a second person guiding the back.

Also, my car is non mod as well.

Originally posted by teklein
Way that went easiest last time was prop the bell housing up on your stomach as you are laying on your back, then kinda roll with the trans while having a second person guiding the back. Also, my car is non mod as well.

Not all of us have nearly as effective of a "stomache prop" as you do Tim LOL

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by teklein Way that went easiest last time was prop the bell housing up on your stomach as you are laying on your back, then kinda roll with the trans while having a second person guiding the back. Also, my car is non mod as well.

Not all of us have nearly as effective of a "stomache prop" as you do Tim LOL

Mikey was the one that rolled it onto his stomach :shrug

Originally posted by teklein

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by teklein Way that went easiest last time was prop the bell housing up on your stomach as you are laying on your back, then kinda roll with the trans while having a second person guiding the back. Also, my car is non mod as well.

Not all of us have nearly as effective of a "stomache prop" as you do Tim LOL

Mikey was the one that rolled it onto his stomach :shrug

I stand corrected.

Just got done doing this job for the second time. It is a pain in the ass, but you will get it, just be patient. Get someone to work with you and you will have a much easier time.

I find it easiest to get under the car and prop up the tranny. Tie a rope to it (anywhere you like) and then use the strut brace (assuming you have one) as a leverage point. Pull the rope over that and tie it off. Now you got the tranny off the floor and it will be easier to maneuver.

Once you get to this point, it's a little bit of a give and take of raising and lowering the motor and moving the tranny around until you get it to the right spot where the input shaft lines up. When you get there you will know, because it will just "pop" right in.

Mark has a good point though, with the back of the bellhousing and the crossmember. That is always the most annoying clearance issue area, so try to get it above the crossmember early on.

Good luck!

So I managed to get it in over the weekend. The thing that was really messing it up was that i just had the engine held up by one jack stand on the block(not oil pan) causing the engine to lean towards the passanger side. Also the trans rear roll mount was getting in the way since I couldn't get it off. After I lowered the engine and used another jack under the oil pan to tip it towards the driver side, it went in. It was still a huge pain though.
Now I just need figure out how to get the wheel bearing out of the knuckle...

It won't start now. It sounds like the starter is trying to start it but only clicks once and I can feel a little bit of feedback through the clutch pedal. My battery is brand new and charged. Is there anything I might be missing. Like the started needs to be spaced out with washers or something or a wire that isn't hooked up?

Cars suck. I'm gonna build a monorail.

I forgot to say that it seems like the clutch is actually working. If I let it roll and release the clutch, the car will stop rolling. The car should just be able to start in neutral if the clutch sensor button were pressed down right?

There is a little black wire with a connector on the front near where the trans and engine meets. Make sure it is connected.

Also check your grounds and battery terminals.

Isn't that just a knock sensor? Or are you talking about the big ground wire that runs straight back to the battery? I think I'm just going to try a bump start. I only have one chance at it though since my drive way is really steep... The question should I just unhook the starter for it?

Isn't that just a knock sensor? Or are you talking about the big ground wire that runs straight back to the battery? I think I'm just going to try a bump start. I only have one chance at it though since my drive way is really steep... The question should I just unhook the starter for it?

Update...
I don't know how to edit or delete post with these forums.

I got the starter to engage "properly" and start the car by adding a washer to just the upper bolt. Apparently, this gives it just enough of an angle to clear the flywheel. I'm assuming the flywheel was just a little out of spec? I know it couldn't be my fault.

I even tried calling Clutchmasters this morning and they said they never made a steel flywheel. It had the part number FW-1922-Steel on box, which matches for the Neon. So I went and picked up a new starter before I tried the washer thing. Luckily it just wouldn't fit because of a coolant pipe, or I would be out another $120.

The only thing I have left to fix is the ball pivot thing that clutch fork rests on. For some reason its made of plastic, and I smashed it throwing the tranny around. Does anybody know where to get one?

Originally posted by teiger
The only thing I have left to fix is the ball pivot thing that clutch fork rests on. For some reason its made of plastic, and I smashed it throwing the tranny around. Does anybody know where to get one?

I get mine form the dealer. It will come attatched to the post. Just pop it off and then you will have to get a little tricky to get it in there without dropping it.